The Netherlands is a small, flat country and as such is possibly the most suitable place in the world for a cycling holiday. There are endless cycle paths and despite the flatness, there are many beautiful scenic areas for you to discover. Get away from the tourist traps in Amsterdam and discover the rest of the Netherlands. Use fromatob.co.uk to find out how to get a train between these top attractions.
The ‘Green Heart’
The ‘Green Heart’ is an area marked out on the map by the four largest cities in the Netherlands. There are some towns in the Green Heart, but the majority of the area consists of open fields, lakes and canals, and of course, cycle lanes. Popular tourist attractions are the town of Gouda, home of the world famous cheese, and Alphen aan den Reijn. Camping is a popular past-time in the Netherlands and any decent sized town will have a tourist office that can guide you to the nearest place to pitch a tent. Alternatively, the Green Heart is also dotted with hotels.
Hoge Veluwe National Park
A beautiful stretch of land in the east of the country, the Hoge Veluwe park is more known for it’s magnificent pine forests and heaths than for the canals that dominate the rest of the country. The town of Apeldoorn is a couple of kilometres away and makes an excellent base to see the very gently rolling hills (the highest point is 110 metres). To travel to Apeldoorn from the west, use fromatob.co.uk/train to find an easy way to carry you and your bicycle to your destination.
The Dutch Coast
There is hardly anyone living in Holland who doesn’t regularly travel to the sea to attempt to catch some sun. The weather can be changeable, but there is something charming about the lengthy coastline, which hosts a number of towns aimed at attracting tourists. The most popular of these is Scheveningen, and at any time of year will be full of visitors, but you can travel a couple of kilometres down the coast to find a part of the beach to call your own.
A Good Starting Point for Planning Your British Isles Itinerary
This summary of the itinerary for my recent 18 day trip through the British Isles will, hopefully, help jumpstart your own trip planning process. I’ve just completed a detailed series of postings featuring each city I visited, including where I stayed, how I got there and what I saw at each stop along the way. If you decide to follow this itinerary you’ll get a good overview of England, Wales, Scotland, Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland, while keeping the travel times each day to a minimum. For me, getting there is half the fun, so I love riding the trains and buses through the countryside from one town to the next. This is often a great way to meet people and it’s wonderful to be able to leave the driving to someone else when you’re on vacation. If you’re traveling in a group of two or more, however, it may be more economical to rent a car, but remember, driving a car with manual transmission on the opposite side of those narrow roads is not for the faint of heart!
London, England
Customize to Fit Your Own Schedule
A word of caution…as a solo, budget traveler, I like to squeeze as much as I can into my trips, so this pace may be a bit fast for some. If that’s the case or if you don’t have three weeks, you can use any portion of this schedule and tailor it to fit your own timetable. One possibility, for example, would be to separate it into two trips, the first just concentrating on England, Wales and Scotland and the second just on Ireland. Another suggestion would be to do England and Wales in one trip and Scotland and Ireland in another. By dividing the trip in this manner you would have time to spend two nights in some of the major cities like London, Edinburgh and Dublin and at major scenic destinations like the Cliffs of Moher and the Ring of Kerry in Ireland.
Conwy, Wales
City by City Itinerary
As you can see from a quick look at the list below, you will be traveling to some of the most famous and interesting destinations in the world…and getting from one place to the next will take you through some of the most beautiful scenery on the planet. Here goes!
1) London, England
-arrived by plane from SFO
2) Bath, England
-by train, 1 hour 45 minutes
3) Cardiff, Wales
-by train, 1 hour
4) Shrewsbury, England
-by train via Swansea, 8 hours
-scenic Heart of Wales train journey
5) Conwy, Wales
-by train, 2 hours 30 minutes
6) York, England
-by train, 5 hours
7) Edinburgh, Scotland
-by train, 2 hours 30 minutes
8) Inverness, Scotland
-by train, 4 hours
-scenic Highlands train journey through Cairngorm Mountains
-LochNess
9) Glasgow, Scotland
-by train, 4 hours
10) Belfast, Northern Ireland
-by train and ferry, 6 hours
11) Londonderry, Northern Ireland
-by train, 2 hours
12) Sligo, Ireland
-by bus, 2 hours 30 minutes
13) Galway, Ireland
-by bus, 2 hours 30 minutes
-Clifden and Connemara
14) Limerick, Ireland
-by train, 2 hours
-Cliffs of Moher
15) Tralee, Ireland
-by bus, 2 hours
-Dingle Town
16) Killarney, Ireland
-by bus, 1 hour
-Ring of Kerry
17) Cork, Ireland
-by bus, 1 hour 30 minutes
-Blarney Castle
18) Dublin, Ireland
-by bus, 4 hours 15 minutes
Loch Ness, Scotland
Summary of Expenses
Airfare: (San Francisco to London and Dublin to San Francisco) $807.00
Land Transportation: (trains and buses) $613.00
Lodging: $1,327.00 (average $74.00 per night)
Food: $144.00 (doesn’t include breakfast which came with most hotels)
Incidentals (including entrance fees): $73.00
Total Expenses:$2,964.00
Londonderry, Northern Ireland
Las Vegas or Europe?
Depending on what part of the country you’re coming from, a round trip plane ticket to Las Vegas can cost anywhere from $200 to $500. For just a few hundred more you could fly to the British Isles and see something new and exciting. Remember, either way you still have to eat and sleep, so the expenses once you get to either destination will be similar. The choice was a no-brainer for me! Considering all the fantastic things I saw, the wonderful people I met and the awesome accommodations I had on my nearly three week trek through England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland, doing all this for less than $3,000 was a great value for this budget traveler. Be sure to check out the other articles in this series for more details on planning your trip to the British Isles. Tally Ho and Cherrio!
It was inevitable that my two and a half week trek through England, Wales, Scotland, Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland would have to come to an end, so what better place to wind it up than Dublin! For many travelers, Dublin is a dream destination to be experienced at least once during a lifetime. Located on the east coast of Ireland where the River Liffey flows into the Irish Sea separating England from Ireland, Dublin is the capital of the Republic of Ireland and also its most populous city.
The Custom House Across the River Liffey, Dublin
The word ‘Dublin’ means ‘black pool’ and humans have been known to inhabit the area since prehistoric times. The first recorded accounts of life in Dublin date back to 140 AD and as the centuries rolled by, the events that transpired in this fascinating city would not only secure its place in history, but also ensure its role as a major player on the 21st Century world stage. Today, Dublin is the center of culture, finance and education in Ireland, as well as being its seat of government. So, let’s go together now on a whirlwind, walking tour of Dublin, Ireland.
The Millennium Spire, Dublin, Ireland
Points of Interest North of the River Liffey
O’Connell Street
The River Liffey divides Dublin into two sectors, known as the Northside and the Southside, and is traversed along its course by a number of interesting bridges, from the ultramodern Samuel Beckett Bridge opened in 2009 to the historic Mellows Bridge constructed in 1764. The streets that run alongside the river on each side are divided into Quays that extend between each bridge. The centrally located O’Connell Bridge is a good starting point for a walking tour of Dublin. Crossing over to the Northside sets you on a path down this wide boulevard lined with shops, restaurants, pubs and a number of important sights. One of the most noticeable is the Millennium Spire completed in 2003. Also known as the Spire of Dublin or the Monument of Light, the location of this modern, 400 foot, stainless steel needle next to the 200 year old General Post Office typifies the juxtaposition of old and new throughout Dublin.
O’Connell Street, Dublin, Ireland
The Garden of Remembrance
Dublin figured prominently during the Irish War of Independence and a little farther north on O’Connell Street is Parnell Square and the Garden of Remembrance. The garden was opened in 1966 and is dedicated to the memory of ‘all those who gave their lives in the cause of Irish freedom’. Lost in my own thoughts, I paused for a moment in this peaceful, outdoor sanctuary, joining the other tourists and Dubliners who were gathered there in silent reflection.
The Garden of Remembrance, Dublin, Ireland
Potpourri of Culture
Those who appreciate Irish literature will want to continue on to the Dublin Writers Museum and the James Joyce Cultural Centre. With a little sleuthing the original location of 7 Eccles Street featured in Joyce’s Ulysses can still be found. Continuing on the Northside, but east of O’Conner Street, is the Custom House built in the 1780s and undoubtedly Dublin’s greatest contribution to the world of architecture. Its impressive dome and columns are actually best viewed from across the river looking northward. Heading westward now, a visit to the Old Jameson Distillery will delight aficionados of Irish whiskey and you can even wet your whistle with a free drink at the end of the tour. Remember, all of these sights are easily accessible on foot and having gotten to this point, visitors can now take their pick of interesting bridges to cross back over to the Southside.
The Old Jameson Distillery, Dublin, Ireland
Points of Interest South of the River Liffey
Guinness Brewery
For most visitors to Dublin, the best known sights are likely to be located south of the River Liffey. Our walking tour has thus far taken us on a counter-clockwise sweep of the city. We are now at the west end of the Southside of Dublin near Heuston Station, built in 1846 and still one of Ireland’s main railway stations. The nearby Kilmainham Gaol where many of the Irish nationalist leaders were incarcerated was built as a prison in 1796 and is now open to the public as a museum. Continuing eastward after exploring this sobering landmark, a visit to the Guinness Brewery and Storehouse dating back to 1759 will get your Irish mojo back on track.
The Guinness Brewery, Dublin, Ireland
Medieval Dublin
The Vikings, mostly from Denmark, settled in Dublin in the 9th century and retained control until the Norman Invasion of 1169. Once England assumed power in the region it operated from the Dublin Castle which dates back to 1204. The Record Tower is the only surviving tower and dates back to 1228. History buffs will also want to see St. Audden’s Gate (1275) and the old city walls in the Viking Medieval Area, all in the vicinity of the castle.
Dublin Castle, Ireland
The Cathedral District
Next up, in the appropriately named Cathedral District you will come to the historic Christ Church Cathedral founded around 1030 AD. If you time it just right, you may get to hear the well-known choir, the magnificent organ and the pealing of the 19 tower bells, all of which carry on the musical tradition for which this church is known. Just a little farther south is Ireland’s largest cathedral, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, dating back to 1191, which contains the grave of writer Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver’s Travels. The choir at St. Patrick’s Cathedral provided many of the voices for the first public performance of Handel’s Messiah which took place in Dublin in 1742.
St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin, Ireland
Trinity College
Perhaps one of the most famous universities in the world, Trinity College is located literally in the heart of Dublin. Founded in 1592 during the rein of Queen Elizabeth I, its impressive list of graduates includes such literary notables as Oscar Wilde, Samuel Beckett, Jonathon Swift and Bram Stoker of Dracula fame. The library at Trinity College contains the famous Book of Kells, a lavishly illustrated manuscript of The Four Gospels of the New Testament created by Celtic monks sometime before 800 AD. After a stroll through the perfectly manicured quads which are lined with architecturally classic buildings you’ll see why Trinity College is considered one of the most beautiful campuses in the world.
Shakespeare Players at Trinity College, Dublin
Temple Bar
South of the college is a peaceful park known as St. Stephen’s Green where you can take a breather after visiting the adjacent shopping centers. The historic display of Georgian architecture surrounding nearby Merrion Square is also worth a peek. After visiting the National History Museum and National Gallery next to Merrion Square you can cool your heels at one of the many pubs in the Temple Bar area. With its cobblestone streets and period buildings, this bustling district running alongside the River Liffey will give you a taste of ancient Dublin. You can also enjoy a taste of beer or whiskey as you enjoy they vibrant nightlife in this popular tourist destination.
The Temple Bar Area, Dublin, Ireland
Tips for Planning Your Trip
Dublin as a Gateway City
Not only is Dublin a beautiful and historic city with lots of great hotels, restaurants and pubs, but it also has convenient access to the modern Dublin Airport 6 miles north of the city as well as easy access to both bus and rail lines. With its central location and the many airlines that service its airport, Dublin should be considered as a potential gateway city for any trip to the British Isles or the European continent. Completing the last leg of my journey, I arrived around noon on a weekday in early June after a 4 hour bus ride from Cork (on my favorite Bus Eireann) with the ticket costing about $18. After waiting out a brief downpour, I walked from the bus station, across the river to my hotel with a little help from several friendly police officers (referred to as Garda in Ireland) who were glad to assist me with directions. The friendliness of the Irish people simply cannot be overstated.
The Samuel Beckett Bridge and the Convention Centre, Dublin
The Drury Court Hotel
I’d made a reservation at the Drury Court Hotel near the Temple Bar area before leaving on my trip and for the equivalent of $98 I had a nice room in a great location. It’s worth pointing out once again that the only reservations I make ahead of time are for the first and last nights of my trip, since these are the only nights I know for sure where I will be. Interestingly, these are often the most expensive nights of my trip and for the most part just walking in on arrival will get you a better value for your money, especially during the off-season. When my visit had finally come to an end I was able to catch an Airlink bus near my hotel going directly to the Dublin Airport for $8.50. All that was left now was the long flight home and a lot of wonderful memories. Be sure to return for my next posting where I will recap my itinerary which you can tailor to meet your own needs for your trip through the British Isles.
The city of Cork in southern Ireland is a major seaport and the third most populous city in Ireland. The name ‘Cork’ comes from the Irish word meaning marsh and the city center is actually located on an island where the River Lee divides into two channels before converging again to flow to the sea. From the time it was founded by Saint Finbarr in the 6th century, Cork has been at the center of Irish history in one fashion or another. It served as a Viking trading post beginning around 920 AD, had its population decimated by the Black Death plague in 1349, played a role in the English War of the Roses in 1491 and was a major player in the War of Independence in the early 20th century. Recent history is reflected in the beautiful churches and cathedrals that grace the city, including the famous neo-Gothic Saint Fin Barre’s (Protestant) and St. Mary’s (Catholic) Cathedrals. Christ Church in the Old Town and St. Anne’s Church, which houses the Bells of Shandon in its clock tower, round out the architectural splendor on display at the houses of worship in Cork.
The Bells of Shandon Across the River Lee, Cork, Ireland
Elizabeth Fort was built as a fortification outside the city walls in 1601. While parts of the fort are now used as a police station, other areas are accessible to tourists, as are some of the original town walls. Culture abounds in Cork, as attested by the Crawford Art Gallery, the ultra modern Cork Opera House and the beautiful University College Cork, built in 1845, which straddles the south channel of the River Lee. While all of these sites are easily accessible on foot, St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral and the University College Cork located near one another on the south side of the city are particularly worth the time and effort to see.
University College, Cork, Ireland
Kissing the Blarney Stone
No trip to Ireland would be complete without kissing the Blarney Stone. Located high up in the tower of the 600 year old Blarney Castle just outside of Cork, the Blarney Stone can only be kissed while lying on your back and being suspended partially upside down…and trusting the guide to hold you! It really isn’t as scary as it sounds and once done, the gift of Irish gab is supposedly conferred upon the ‘kisser’. The short bus ride from the Cork city center to the castle cost about $9 for the round trip and the entrance fee to the castle grounds was about $15.
Blarney Castle Near Cork, Ireland
The Blarney Castle and Gardens are actually a large, active estate located on the River Martin and the Blarney River. Visitors can also tour the elegant Blarney House built in 1874 where the current baronet and his family actually live. Put on your hiking shoes as you take a self guided tour of the gardens, the castle with its dungeons and caves and the rock close with its waterfalls, Druid’s Cave and Witch’s Stone. One could spend hours wandering the grounds and exploring the many points of interest to be found in this magical place. Trust me! You won’t want to miss it. Just before I left I’m almost certain I saw several Leprechauns, but then maybe I’m just full of Blarney.
Kissing the Blarney Stone Atop Blarney Castle, Ireland
The Friendly Corkonians
The hour and a half bus ride from Killarney to Cork cost about $24 and took us through some beautiful sights and scenery, including the market town of Macroom. Corkonians are a very friendly lot and I enjoyed chatting with a number of them during my wanderings about the city. It’s interesting to note that they are sometimes referred to as ‘The Rebels’ for their early disavowal of British domination during the long struggle for Irish independence. I was very fortunate to find a wonderful place to stay while I was in Cork and encourage you to return for my full report on Creedon’s Bed and Breakfast. It goes without saying that with its many cultural and architectural treasures in addition to the nearby Blarney Castle, Cork is an essential stop on any trek through Ireland.
A tour of the Ring of Kerry, located on the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry, has become an almost mandatory pilgrimage for every visitor to Ireland. A bus tour is a great way to see the many beautiful sights on this heavily trafficked trail and usually takes about six hours to complete. Because of the difficulty buses have passing one another on some of the narrow roads, they all travel in a counterclockwise direction along the coast. I had a great experience with O’Connor Auto Tours which provided an entertaining (and very skilled) bus driver who regaled us with his gift of Irish gab and gave us plenty of time at each stop. The tour cost about $32, not including lunch, and I’m quite sure you’ll be glad you left the driving to them rather than trying to navigate the narrow, winding roads in a rental car.
The Ring of Kerry, Ireland
There was an additional fee for several special points of interest along the way, one of the most interesting of which was the sheepdog herding demonstration. The tour took us through Killorglin, Caherciveen, Waterville, Sneem, Molls Gap and Ladies’ View in addition to a visit to the Kerry Bog Village Museum in Glenbeigh before returning to Killarney. One of the most enjoyable things about traveling is the people you meet along the way, like the nice folks who were on the tour bus with me. So, here’s a ‘hello’ to Luca and Elena from Italy, Brian from Philadelphia and the two lovely young ladies from Victoria, British Columbia.
The Kerry Bog Village Museum, Ireland
Killarney
Located in southwestern Ireland, Killarney has an ancient history and the castles, abbeys and cathedrals to prove it. With its trout filled lakes, mountain crags and oak studded woodlands, it has become one of the most popular tourist destinations in all of Ireland. Killarney is not just a great jumping off place for the Ring of Kerry, but a worthy destination in its own right! After returning from the Ring of Kerry tour I walked around the old town with its colorful shops, pubs and restaurants, visited the famous St. Mary’s Cathedral and enjoyed seeing some of the beautifully manicured gardens that surround many of the lovely homes that line the streets.
Killarney National Park, Ireland
I always like to immerse myself in local events when I travel and it just happened that there was an international gathering of bikers taking place at the Gleneagle Hotel while I was in Killarney. I had fun mingling with the crowds, enjoying the free entertainment and drooling over the beautiful Harley-Davidson motorcycles that had come from all over the world. My walk skirted the Killarney National Park where I got a glimpse of Muckross Abbey, but unfortunately I missed some of the most well known sites in Killarney, including Ross Castle, Muckross House and the nearby Torc Waterfall, which will have to wait until my next trip to Ireland. There just was not enough time to see everything, giving me a good excuse to return to Killarney some day.
Bikers in Killarney, Ireland
Trek through Ireland Drawing to a Close
With my trek through Ireland winding down to the last few days before I would have to fly home, I couldn’t imagine that there would still be so much more waiting for me to see! It seemed that each place I visited outdid the ones that came before and the town of Killarney and the nearby Ring of Kerry were no exception! Fortunately, I’d made reservations before I left Tralee for a room at a bed and breakfast as well as a seat on the tour bus to the Ring of Kerry. The 40 minute bus ride from Tralee to Killarney cost about $12 and the driver was kind enough to make a special stop near Leen’s Bed and Breakfast where I was given a warm welcome. I was able to check into my room early so that I could leave my pack and be ready for the tour bus that picked me up out front at 10 AM. Be sure to return for our full report on Leen’s Bed and Breakfast in Killarney, Ireland…a wonderful place to stay!
Written in the nineteenth century, ‘The Rose of Tralee’ is a famous Irish ballad about a woman who was ‘lovely and fair’, a description that has come to embody the features of all the beautiful young colleens in Ireland. Every year young ladies from Irish communities throughout the world compete for the distinction of being selected ‘The Rose’, culminating in the crowning of the winner at the Rose of Tralee Festival held here in August. Because of its familiar name, Tralee was one of the places I was anxious to visit on my trek through Ireland. For a $25 ticket I took the two hour ride from Limerick on my favorite Bus Eireann, arriving in Tralee around noon on a Saturday in early June. But once again, the town would have to wait, so that I could catch the bus out to see the Dingle Peninsula first.
St. John’s Catholic Church from the Town Park Rose Gardens
The Dingle Peninsula and Dingle Town
As a popular tourist destination the Dingle Peninsula is catching up with the Iveragh Peninsula, its next door neighbor to the south, which boasts the famous Ring of Kerry. Also located in County Kerry, the Dingle Peninsula is named for Dingle Town which is a picturesque little village on the Dingle River where it flows into a sheltered harbor on the Atlantic Coast. While Dingle Town has a long history as a fishing port and still has traces of the town walls that once surrounded it, today’s visitors will be particularly impressed with the narrow, hilly streets lined with brightly painted shops, pubs and houses. A short walk up the hill behind the town will reward you with a great view of the surrounding countryside and the harbor below which is teeming with fishing boats. You can take a boat ride out to the mouth of the Dingle Harbor where Fungie the world famous bottlenose dolphin has greeted visitors since 1984 and perhaps even take a swim with him. If time permits you can also take the scenic drive out towards Dunmore Head, the western most point in Ireland. The round trip bus fare from Tralee to Dingle Town cost about $22 and took an hour each way. But you’ll be wishing it took longer so you’d have more time to enjoy the breathtaking scenery along the way.
Colorful Streets of Dingle Town, Ireland
Tralee
The weather was somewhat dreary when I got back to Tralee in the early evening to set out on my walking tour of this pretty little town. In addition to being a great jumping off place for the Dingle Peninsula (and the Ring of Kerry, as well), Tralee was full of friendly people and interesting things to see. It was quite pleasant to walk along the wide streets lined with Georgian edifices and to go window shopping on The Mall and to stroll through the Town Square filled with the Irish music flowing from the nearby pubs. Along the way I visited St. John’s Catholic Church and the Pikeman Memorial which commemorates the 1798 Irish Rebellion. Rounding out the evening I took the long walk along the ship canal to check out the locks and to see the Blennerville Windmill, the oldest one in Ireland still in operation. One of the most beautiful spots in Tralee is the town park which is filled with the town’s namesake roses and many other colorful flowers. Right across from the town park is the Kerry County Museum which has the Tralee Tourist Office in the basement. I knew that timing would be critical on the next day of my trip so the helpful staff there booked my accommodations in Killarney and got me a seat on the Ring of Kerry tour bus a day in advance.
The Canal Walk and the Blennerville Windmill
Finnegan’s Hostel
After checking several hotels on my short walk from the bus station into town (and finding them either full or too expensive!) I happened upon Finnegan’s Hostel right in the heart of Tralee. With a name like Finnegan’s it couldn’t get much more Irish and this was without a doubt the best bargain on my trip to Ireland! For $35 I got a great room with private bath and breakfast included! While it is more like a budget bed and breakfast it does have dormitory rooms in addition to twin and double rooms. There are 40 beds in all and each room has an en suite bathroom. Located right across from the rose gardens in the town park this Georgian town house was completed in 1826 and each room is named after a famous Irish author. Finnegan’s Hostel was clean, safe, comfortable, a good value and conveniently located…all criteria that must be met to make it onto our list of Awesome Accommodations. The friendly staff provided a lot of good information about what to see in Tralee and how to get out to Dingle Town. The facility also features bike rental, laundry service and an elegant restaurant in the cellar. This would be a great place for group accommodations, but regardless of your travel needs, this is where you will want to stay during your visit to Tralee.
