Must See Places

Engineer Explaining Old Train System

The Welsh Countryside

A Scenic Train Ride through the Welsh Countryside

          Swansea on the South Coast of Wales is only a one hour train ride from Cardiff, with the ticket costing a little over seven dollars.  The two and a half hour stop over there allowed me to get out and explore this interesting seaside city before getting back onboard the train for the scenic ride through the heart of Wales.  I had read about the beautiful journey between Swansea and Shrewsbury (just back across the border into England) and it was with great anticipation that I returned to the station after walking around Swansea.  The train had already pulled in by the time I got back and a friendly lady who I recognized to be the conductor was standing on the platform.  I asked her if she had any suggestions as to which side I should sit on to get the best view of the scenery and was surprised when she offered her recommendations for each leg of the trip.

Swansea, Wales...the Old and the New
Swansea, Wales…the Old and the New

Quaint Villages and Lots of Sheep

          When the conductor saw me checking out the train, she asked, “You’re not a train buff, by any chance, are you?”  When I eagerly replied that I was, she added, “Oh, then you’re really going to enjoy this ride!”  We chatted for a few moments until a young man emerged from the train who she introduced as the engineer.  They both proceeded to explain that this was going to be a beautiful ride heading north through the Welsh countryside and that we’d see lots of sheep-studded farms, green hillsides and quaint little villages along the way…so quaint that the conductor would have to get out and manually throw the switch to lower the traffic barrier.

Conductor Lowering Traffic Barrier
Conductor Lowering Traffic Barrier

A Historic Train System

          Because it was not a heavily traveled route, there would be stretches where there was only one track for trains going each way.  The engineer and conductor explained how they would have to stop and manually insert a set of keys into an antiquated set of locks to insure that no other trains came in the other direction while we were on the track.  The conductor said she would let me know when the time came and I could come along with them and see how it was done.

Engineer Explaining Old Train System
Engineer Explaining Old Train System

Tagging Along with the Engineer and Conductor

          Well, as you can imagine, I was in hog heaven for the entire four hour ride, between watching the breathtakingly beautiful scenery passing by outside my window and getting out several times with the engineer and conductor to watch them do their thing!  They were so friendly and nice and seemed to enjoy having a passenger who was interested in the operation of the trains.  These folks were typical of the entire cadre of train personnel who I encountered on my trip throughout England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland.  To a person, they were friendly and helpful and went out of their way to insure that their passengers were safe, comfortable and got the correct ticket at the best price.  If you like trains and train travel, be sure to watch the video below.  Once you see the beautiful country scenery you’ll want to add this train ride (costing only $23) from Swansea, Wales to Shrewsbury, England to your itinerary!


 

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Old Town Square, Prague, Czech Republic

Prague, The Czech Republic

Does Prague Really Rival Paris?

          In a word…Yes!  In two words…heck Yes!  Don’t get me wrong, I love Paris, which in many ways is incomparable, but if you haven’t been to Prague, then it should be near the top of your list of destinations for your next trip to Europe.  It’s easily accessible by train and I had the pleasure of visiting Prague for the third time on my recent circuit around Europe.  Considering my great appreciation for this fabulous city, it should be no surprise that I chose a shot of the Charles Bridge and the Old Town for one of the lead pictures on my website (see above).  Now you have some idea what’s in store for you when you visit Prague.

Charles Bridge, Prague, Czech Republic
Charles Bridge, Prague
Wenceslas Square, Prague
Wenceslas Square, Prague

Fun on the Train 

          The seven hour trek from Nuremberg to Prague was a pleasant reminder of why I love traveling by train.  It gave me an opportunity to view some of the most beautiful countryside of Germany and the Czech Republic from the window of the compartment which I shared with a wonderful group of fun loving Germans.  Included in my new circle of friends were two young ladies (teachers) heading out for a vacation in Prague with their bicycles who kept us laughing all the way.  There was an older German woman who regaled us with tales of her youth during the war years.  Rounding out our traveling group was a young businessman, who, along with me, was getting quite a kick out of the ladies.  When my new traveling companions found out that I spoke a little German, they insisted that we speak only German for the rest of the trip so that I could brush up on my skills.  This turned out to be a great experience for me, especially with two German teachers to tutor me…and I was surprised at how well I did.  When we had to switch trains at the border, they all wanted to keep our little group together, so we soon found ourselves in the same compartment again on the next train.  Mingling with the locals is one of my favorite things about traveling and in my opinion there is no better way to learn about other cultures and other counties.

Old Town Square, Prague, Czech Republic
Old Town Square, Prague

          I remember once on another trip being on a crowded train going through the beautiful Austrian countryside.  Of the six in our compartment there were two American college ‘boys’ traveling together, sitting across from one another in the window seats.  I was the only other American in our group and thoroughly enjoyed chatting with the others in the compartment.  I watched as one of the non-American passengers tried unsuccessfully several times to engage the American fellows in conversation.  They were both reading books (probably about wizards) and not paying any attention even to the beautiful landscape passing by just outside their windows.  Each time someone tried to speak to them, they removed their ear buds with a look of slight annoyance and replied, “What?” and then answered in one or two words.  What a wasted opportunity!

Astronomical Clock, Prague
Astronomical Clock, Prague

Sensory Overload

          I found a nice place to stay not far from the train station called the Hotel City Inn for $52, including breakfast.  I was soon out to conquer the city that rivals Paris on a beautiful afternoon and evening.  Prague has a decent metro system, but I found it fairly easy to see most of the sights on foot.  The city straddles the Vltava River, a tributary of the Elbe River, with the Old Town (Stare Mesto) on the east side and Prague Castle on the west side.  The picturesque Charles Bridge joins the two banks and is probably the most famous landmark, if not the symbol of Prague.  Wenceslas Square on the east side near the train station is in the New Town and comprises the commercial center of Prague.

Prague Castle
Prague Castle

          It could take forever to make the short walk cross the Charles Bridge, which is only open to pedestrians, due to the crowds of tourists taking in the stellar views and the many artisans selling their wares along the way, but most of all because you don’t want the experience to end.  Once on the other side, it is a good hike up the hill to the Prague Castle, but well worth it for the view looking back down on the bridge and the Old Town.  Back on the other bank, the Old Town Square is the main center of activity and the location of many of the important landmarks.  A visit at night under the stars and lights is a visual delight.  The Astronomical Clock draws crowds for its hourly show and the spires of the Church of Our Lady Before Tyn form an awesome backdrop.  Be sure to save some time to visit the many elegant shops and bring home a piece of Bohemian crystal for which this area is known.

Prague Castle, Czech Republic
Prague Castle Across the Charles River

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Verona, Italy

The Dolomites, Northern Italy

A Train Ride From Bologna, Italy to Innsbruck, Austria 

          The train ride from Bologna, Italy to Innsbruck, Austria goes through the Adige River Valley, giving travelers a spectacular view of the Dolomites as you travel through the Italian Alps into Austria.  This stretch of rail line rivals some of the great train trips of Europe such as the thrilling ride ‘over the roof of Norway’ from Oslo to Bergen and the stunningly beautiful trip through the Bernese Oberland in Switzerland.  I left Bologna at 10 AM and arrived in Innsbruck, Austria at 4:30 PM, passing through Trento and Balzano with one stop in Verona.  One need only check out the brief video clip below to understand why I love train travel, especially in Europe!

Verona, Italy
Verona, Italy

A Beautiful Train Ride Through the Adige River Valley of Northern Italy


 

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Naples, Positano and the Amalfi Coast

Naples, Positano and the Amalfi Coast of Italy

          Naples is not usually at the top of the list of destinations for most visitors to Italy.  Lying farther south than its more famous sister cities, Rome (118 miles), Florence and Venice, it is a bit off the beaten path, but a path well worth taking in my opinion.  Of course Napoli is famous for food (pizza, spaghetti and ice cream come to mind), but it also has many beautiful plazas, great shopping and a number of interesting sights, including museums, catacombs and architecturally significant buildings.  Perched on a hillside overlooking its namesake bay, Naples is not only a beautiful city in its own right, but it is a jumping off place for several nearby ‘must see’ locations.

Naples at Night
Naples at Night

Mt. Vesuvius

          Just across the Bay of Naples the eerie silhouette of Mt. Vesuvius looms over the scene like a sleeping giant.  The only active volcano on the European mainland, it makes its presence known from time to time by blowing off steam or actually erupting, the last major occurrence having been in 1944.  In days gone by, visitors could take a funicular (1880 to 1944) or chair lift (1953 to 1984) to the top and peer down into the smoking cone.  Eruptions or the threat thereof have permanently closed both modes of ascent and now adventurous visitors must hike to the top.  It is interesting to note that the well known song “Funiculi-funicula” was inspired by the opening of the Vesuvius funicular in 1880.  Some years ago, I had the opportunity to take the chair lift to the top while it was still in operation and that is an experience I will never forget!

Mt. Vesuvius Across the Bay of Naples
Mt. Vesuvius Across the Bay of Naples

Pompeii 

          The nearby ruins of Pompeii serve as a reminder of the destructive power of volcanoes and the danger they pose to those in their path.  It was a two day siege in 79 AD that killed 2000 people and buried Pompeii and nearby Herculaneum until they were accidentally rediscovered in 1599.  Victims of this horrific eruption were engulfed by ash and pumice and as the years passed their decomposed bodies left hollowed out spaces.  By injecting plaster into these voids, archeologists were able to produce lifelike recreations of some of the citizens of Pompeii in their final moments.  Strolling through this ancient city gives one a glimpse into life at the height of the Roman Empire through an instant ‘frozen’ in time and is another reason why Naples should be on your itinerary.

Seaside Village of Positano on the Amalfi Coast of Italy
Seaside Village of Positano on the Amalfi Coast of Italy

Capri, Positano and the Amalfi Drive

          A short 80 minute ferry ride will take you to the fabulously beautiful Isle of Capri with its Blue Grotto and stunning Mediterranean views.  If all that isn’t enough to get you to Naples, there’s the beautiful drive along the Amalfi Coast, covering about 30 miles of the world’s most beautiful scenery and an equal distance of the world’s most harrowing roads.  Your end point should be the picturesque village of Positano, literally clinging to the side of the steep, rugged hillsides overlooking the water.  It is best reached by taking the local commuter train leaving from the Circumvesuviana Train Station in Naples and arriving about an hour later in Sorrento.  You can then board a bus right outside the train station for the rest of the trip.  Thrill seekers will definitely find their thirst for excitement satiated after this bus ride and I definitely do not recommend that visitors attempt this drive in their own cars.  My enthusiasm for Naples and the surrounding points of interest must be pretty obvious and I hope I have convinced you to include this exciting region on your next visit to Italy.  After all, you wouldn’t want to miss the birthplace of pizza now, would you!

Check Out This Wild Ride!

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Vernazza on the Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera

The Cinque Terre Hike

          The Cinque Terre is one of those destinations that everyone should try to visit some time in their lives and the eight mile Cinque Terre hike is an absolute must for anyone who is fit and able to walk.  The Cinque Terre (pronounced Cheeng-Kway Tear-ray; tear as in to cut, not as in tear from the eye; and be sure to roll the r’s) means five lands and is a collection of five hillside villages located on the rugged Ligurian Coast of Italy or the Italian Riviera.  The village of Vernazza, in particular, you will immediately recognize from travel photos you have seen many times in the past.  From north to south the villages are Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore.

Vernazza on the Cinque Terre
The Famous Village of Vernazza on the Cinque Terre

Start at Monterosso

          I caught the train at 8 AM in Genoa to the north and from that point on everything went like clockwork, making this one of the most enjoyable days of my trip.  We stopped at little towns all along the way picking up more people at each stop until the train was standing room only.  It was pretty obvious where everyone was heading, since most had shorts, hiking shoes and day packs.  I met people from all over the world on the short train ride and we all chatted excitedly about our plans for the day.  Some, like me, were going to get off at Monterosso, the northern most village, and hike south.  Others were going to stay on the train until they got to the southern most village of Riomaggiore and hike north.  Later that day along the trail I would pass some of these same people going the opposite way and we would all call out a cheerful greeting as we recognized one another from the train.

Monterosso, Italy on the Cinque Terre
Monterosso, Italy on the Cinque Terre

Best Hike Ever!

          The train arrived in Monterosso at 10:30 AM and I was immediately able to find a nice hotel, aptly named Hotel Cinque Terre, which I will feature in the next article on Awesome Accommodations.  By 11:30 AM I was on the trail enjoying the spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea as I hiked through the terraced hillsides of vineyards and olive orchards between each of the five villages.  The weather could not have been nicer and I was glad I had come prepared with good hiking shoes and plenty of water.  The eight mile hike took me four hours and I got back on the train at the fifth village of Riomaggiore heading back to Monterosso by 3:30 PM.  Be sure to check out the video of the Cinque Terre Hike below!

The Cinque Terre Hike, Italy
The Cinque Terre Hike, Italy

Take the Train Back

          If you only have the time or energy to do one portion of the hike, I recommend the section between Monterosso and Vernazza.  It is the most difficult stretch, but I believe the most beautiful and Vernazza is one place you would not want to miss.  The train stops near each of the five villages so even non-hikers can enjoy these quaint little towns.  The train system makes it extremely handy in that you need only do the hike in one direction and can then take the train back to your starting point.  After returning to Monterosso I enjoyed the evening exploring this beautiful area in more detail and had a nice dinner at a sidewalk café.  Looking south as the sun went down I could see the lights of the other villages I had visited earlier in the day twinkling off in the distance.

Rugged Coast on the Cinque Terre Hike
Rugged Coast on the Cinque Terre Hike

Don’t Miss This Video of the Cinque Terre Hike!


A Photo Gallery of the Cinque Terre

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