Russia

The Canals of St. Petersburg, Russia

First Day in Russia

From Helsinki to St. Petersburg

          Many Westerners will enter Russia for the first time on the Allegro Train arriving in St. Petersburg from Helsinki, Finland.  This is also a common land excursion for Baltic Sea cruise ship passengers for whom the Russian visa process is expedited.  For independent travelers like myself, you must obtain a regular Russian visa before entering the country.  I got my three year visa through a private visa agency, Visa HQ, which made the otherwise complicated procedure easy.

 

St. Petersburg Across the Neva River
St. Petersburg Across the Neva River

The Allegro Train

          The three and a half hour ride on this modern, comfortable train goes through some beautiful countryside and you will get to mingle with some real Russian people for the first time.  Border formalities, such as customs, passport and visa checks are conducted by border agents onboard the train so that you’re ready to hit the deck running as soon as you arrive in St. Petersburg.  Rather than the stereotyped intimidating officers of yore, the border agents on the train were polite, respectful and friendly, giving me a good impression of the Russian people right from my very first day in this beautiful country.

The Allegro Train from Helsinki, Finland to St. Petersburg, Russia
The Allegro Train from Helsinki, Finland to St. Petersburg, Russia

Friendly Folks

          As much as I enjoy an adventure, I must say, it was with some trepidation that I made my foray into the Russian Federation for the first time.  After all the years of the Cold War standoff between East and West, I wasn’t sure just how an American would be received there and I really wasn’t looking forward to the grey concrete ambiance that Russia was supposedly known for.  Boy, was I in for a pleasant surprise!  The Russian people were friendly and nice right from the get-go and the surroundings that I found myself in on that beautiful spring day were anything but grey.  The kaleidoscope of colors that awaits those fortunate enough to visit St. Petersburg is almost sensory overload.

The Canals of St. Petersburg, Russia
The Canals of St. Petersburg, Russia

The Language Barrier

          Before leaving home I had made reservations for three nights at the Comfitel Alexandria Hotel in the heart of the city.  I set out to find it as soon as I stepped off the train, anxious to unload my heavy backpack.  With map in hand I embarked on what would turn out to be an exhausting four hour search that would take me in circles before finding the tiny sign for this otherwise great little hotel.  This episode was my first introduction to one of the main challenges of traveling in Russia…the language barrier.  I found that very few Russians speak or understand English, even in a big metropolitan city like St. Petersburg.  That’s not to say they didn’t try.  I stopped to ask directions numerous times and each person knocked themselves out trying to help with sign language.  I finally ran into some students who spoke English and knew right where the hotel was located.

St. Petersburg, Russia
St. Petersburg, Russia

The Comfitel Alexandria Hotel

          I had a nice room with ensuite bathroom for $85 per night at the Comfitel Alexandria Hotel, which included a great breakfast.  The staff were very friendly and helpful and took care of the required country registration for an additional $8.  In spite of the difficulty finding it, I would definitely recommend this hotel because of its great, central location, just a short walk from The Hermiage.  In addition, it was clean, safe and comfortable, rounding out all of my requirements for an awesome accommodation.  And right across the street is a wonderful little café, Café Boge, where I cooled off with a beer and enjoyed mingling with the locals.

Comfitel Alexandria Hotel, St. Petersburg, Russia
Comfitel Alexandria Hotel, St. Petersburg, Russia

Both a Beautiful and a Walkable City

          For the next three days I would walk from one end of St. Petersburg to the other, taking in all the sights and sounds and meeting the friendly people who live there.  Although it is known for having one of the world’s greatest museums, The Hermitage, there are many other important points of interest.  For any traveler who is reasonable fit, the main sights of St. Petersburg can be seen on foot.  If you need a break, you can step into one of the many beautiful cathedrals for a respite along the way or sit on a bench in one of the numerous parks to catch your breath.  If you visit in Spring, you will have the extra treat of seeing the lilacs out in full bloom and Russia has the most beautiful lilacs I have ever seen throughout the world.

The Lilacs of St. Petersburg, Russia
The Lilacs of St. Petersburg, Russia

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The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, St. Petersburg, Russia

A Western Russia Itinerary

Timing is Everything

          Just a few months before the Russian invasion of Ukraine, I took a three week, independent rail and bus journey through Western Russia and Ukraine.  This fabulous trip began and ended respectively in the gateway cities of Helsinki, Finland and Kiev, Ukraine.  In between, I visited the Russian cities of St. Petersburg, Moscow, Saratov, Volgograd, Astrakhan on the Caspian Sea and Rostov on Don before heading west into Ukraine to visit the cities of Yalta and Odessa on the Black Sea and Kiev on the Dnieper River.

The Medieval Town of Porvoo, Finland
The Medieval Town of Porvoo, Finland

Three Countries, Three Seas, Three Rivers

          I learned that train travel in Russia, while safe and reliable, could be painfully slow.  At times I literally wanted to get out and push the train to make it go faster when there was no apparent reason for it to be going so slowly.  Fourteen hour bus trips were the norm.  But these protracted sojourns gave me a wonderful opportunity to meet and get to know the friendly folks in Finland, Russia and Ukraine.  Even with this fast paced trip covering a huge territory, there was still plenty of time to explore the Baltic Sea, the Caspian Sea and the Black Sea.  And I was able to check off one of my bucket list items by dipping my toes in the Volga, the Don and the Dnieper Rivers along the way.

The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, St. Petersburg, Russia
The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, St. Petersburg, Russia

City by City Itinerary

1)  Helsinki, Finland (3 nights)

-arrived by plane from SFO

2)  St. Petersburg, Russia (3 nights)

-arrived by train, 5 hours

3)  Moscow, Russia (3 nights)

-arrived by train, 4 hours, 45 minutes

4) Saratov, Russia (1 night)

-arrived by overnight train, 15 hours, 30 minutes

5)  Volgograd, Russia (1 night)

-arrived by train, 6 hours, 30 minutes

6)  Astrakhan, Russia (1 night)

-arrived by train, 8 hours, 30 minutes

7)  Volgograd, Russia (returned for train connection to Rostov on Don)

-arrived by overnight train, 10 hours

8)  Rostov on Don, Russia (1 night)

-arrived by bus, 8 hours

9)  Yalta, Ukraine (1 night)

-arrived by overnight bus via Simferopol, 14 hours, 20 minutes

10)  Odessa, Ukraine (transfer to train)

-arrived by overnight bus, 14 hours

11)  Kiev, Ukraine (2 nights)

-arrived by train, 8 hours, 30 minutes

Yalta on the Crimean Coast of the Black Sea in Ukraine
Yalta on the Crimean Coast of the Black Sea in Ukraine

A Whirlwind Trip!

          As you can see, this was not a trip for the faint at heart.  It required sticking to a rigorous schedule, with many long hours on trains and buses, but it enabled me to see some fabulous places that tourists may not have an opportunity to see again for quite some time.  Within months of returning from my trek through this area, Russia invaded the Crimean region of Ukraine, which it has occupied since.  Russian troops are still marshaled on the border in the Rostov region of Russia.  Within the same period of time, the train station in Volgograd, where I made several connections, was bombed by terrorists.  Yet, I would not have wanted to miss this chance to explore Russia and the Ukraine and to meet the wonderful people who reside in these two counties.  To a person, they were friendly, welcoming and interested in the American visitor traveling solo through their homeland.  Stay tuned for lots more information about traveling through Russia in future articles on your favorite travel blog, Blue Orb Travel.

Perchersk Lavra Monastery on the Dnieper River in Kiev, Ukraine
Perchersk Lavra Monastery on the Dnieper River in Kiev, Ukraine

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Passing the Sochi Winter Olympics Torch, St. Petersburg, Russia

The Sochi Winter Olympics Torch, St. Petersburg, Russia

St. Petersburg, Russia

          Last May while on a walking tour of St. Petersburg, Russia I had just visited the famous Mariinsky Ballet and Opera Theatre (built in 1860) when I noticed that the large boulevard (ul. Dekabristov)  on which it was located had been cleared by police.  Naturally, I was curious about what was going on.  Would there be a parade or a motorcade or what?  I asked several bystanders and several police patrolling the boulevard, but despite their best efforts I was not able to understand them.

Passing the Sochi Winter Olympics Torch, St. Petersburg, Russia
Passing the Sochi Winter Olympics Torch, St. Petersburg, Russia

Passing the Olympic Torch 

          I decided to mill around for a while and checked out the nearby Mariinsky II, the new Opera House that had just opened earlier in the month.  After an hour of waiting, I was rewarded with a front row view of the Sochi Olympic Torch coming by.  Students from Kazan University passed off the torch right in front of me and it was a thrill to be part of this symbolic ritual in the run up to the Sochi Winter Olympics.

The Friendly People of Russia

          Mingling with the friendly Russian people in this festive atmosphere was a delight and was typical of the interactions I had with the locals throughout my trip.  Stay tuned for much more on my sojourn through Western Russia, from Helsinki, Finland in the north to Astrakahn on the Caspian Sea in the south and then west to Ukraine, where I visited Yalta on the Black Sea and Kiev.

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