Mongolia

July 17, 2015

Mongolia, Rugged and Independent

Sandwiched between Russia and China, now fiercely independent Mongolia is a country on the verge of becoming an economic power and a force to be reckoned with. Its remote location makes it a little difficult to get to, but for travelers on the Trans-Siberian Railway it is a refreshing stop on the nearly 6,000 mile journey from Moscow to Beijing. The moment I boarded the train in Ulan-Ude, Russia heading for Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia, I began to sense the genuine friendliness and innate hardiness of the Mongolian people. I had the opportunity to meet a number of them who were returning home from business trips or vacations and it was a great introduction to this wonderful country.

Ulaanbaatar, City of Contrasts

On arrival in Ulaanbaatar I was able to easily walk across the city from the train station with my backpack to the centrally located UB Guesthouse, one of the best hostels I have ever stayed in (see below). First time visitors to Ulaanbaatar are immediately struck by the architectural contrast of ultra-modern buildings intermixed with yurts, temples and gray, cement monstrosities left over from Mongolia’s nearly 70 years as a satellite state of the Soviet Union, an unhappy period which ended in 1992. In the pleasant June weather I visited many of the major sights on foot and was surprised to see so many nice shops and restaurants along the way. Some of the ‘must see’ attractions include Sukhe Bator (the main square), the National Museum of Mongolian History, the Parliament Building with its free museum, the Choijin Lama Temple and the fabulous temple complex at Gandan Khiid.

The UB Guesthouse

The UB Guesthouse came highly recommended by other travelers I met along the way and also in the guidebooks that I brought on the trip. It is ideally located in the center of the city near the main square and was a fairly easy walk from the train station. It is one of the larger city hostels I have stayed in and had numerous rooms, some private and some dormitory style. The common areas were a great place to chat with other travelers and the clean, well-equipped kitchen was well stocked with free breakfast food. The staff could not have been more friendly and helpful. They assisted me in getting one of the limited train tickets to Beijing and planned a three day excursion to the Gobi Desert and national parks. I paid $8 per night for a comfortable dorm bed. The UB Guesthouse was clean and safe and run by a friendly, helpful staff. All this, along with the great location and reasonable fees, make it one of the best sleeps on our list of Awesome Accommodations.

A Whirlwind Tour of UlaanBaatar, Mongolia

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Olkhon Island, Lake Baikal, Siberia, Russia

Send Me to Siberia, Please!

June 10, 2015

Irkutsk on the Trans-Siberian Railway

One of my favorite cities along the Trans-Siberian Railway journey is Irkutsk near Lake Baikal, deep in the heart of Siberia. It is an easy walk or trolley ride from the Irkutsk Railway Station across the Ankara River into the city center, where I stayed at the popular Baikaler Hostel. The friendly, helpful hostel staff arranged a two night excursion to Olkhon Island on Lake Baikal where I stayed at Nikita’s Homestead, a rustic lodge with all the conveniences of home. The round trip bus ride to the village of Khuzhir and two nights at Nikita’s, including meals, cost just a little over $50. Now that’s what I call a bargain!

Irkutsk Waterfront — Waterfront Scene in Irkutsk, Siberia

Lake Baikal

Lake Baikal, which means ‘nature lake’, is the deepest and the largest fresh water lake (by volume) in the world, containing 20% of the world’s fresh water. It was formed by a rift which is still growing and its clear water and surrounding mountains make it a spectacularly beautiful place to visit. Olkhon Island is easily accessible by bus and ferry and the three day diversion from the Trans-Siberian Railway journey is an experience not to be missed.

Olkhon Island Excursion — Leaving Nikita’s Homestead for a Tour of Olkhon Island

Nikita’s Homestead

The laid back, friendly atmosphere at Nikita’s Homestead makes it the ideal place to meet adventurous travelers from all over the world. The family style dining room serves up some delicious Russian meals and doubles as a gathering place for evening entertainment. Each afternoon we walked down to the little store in town to buy some beer and after dinner all the guests gathered together outside to watch the sunset over the lake. The staff at Nikita’s can arrange tours of the island and I had the good fortune to join two young ladies from Austria for a fun day, traveling to the top of the island and back. By the end of each day I was ready to hit the sack in my comfortable little cabin. Nikita’s Homestead is definitely one of my favorite sleeps and it has earned its spot as an Awesome Accommodation on Blue Orb Travel.

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The Subways of Moscow, Russia

May 21, 2015

An Adventure

Riding the subways of Moscow, Russia can be quite a challenge, to say the least. But it can also be an adventure and it is definitely a great way to mingle with the friendly people of Russia. Some of the subway routes are complicated and even duplicated, which is probably why I never seemed to go the same way twice to and from my hotel. Some of the personnel stationed in cubicles at the bottom of each escalator do not seem anxious to answer questions, probably because they don’t speak English. In fact, the language barrier is one of the greatest difficulties when traveling anywhere in Russia and can be particularly vexing when using the train or subway systems. Almost everyone else, including the roaming uniformed police knocked themselves out to try to help when I asked them for directions.

Steeped in History

The Moscow subway or metro was built in 1935 and now has more than 200 miles of track, mostly underground. It is one of the deepest subways in the world, with the deepest section more than 240 feet below ground. You will definitely get a feel for this when you are riding one of the interminable escalators deep into the ground below Moscow. Many of the stations near the center of Moscow are considered architectural marvels, displaying high ceilings, beautiful chandeliers and marble walls. Riding and exploring the Moscow subways should definitely be a part of any visit to this fascinating city.

An Embarrassing Moment

I had a funny incident occur when I arrived late in the evening on my recent trip to Moscow. After taking the last airport train to the city center I transferred to the subway to go to my hotel. It was only three stops away, so I didn’t take my backpack off when I sat down on one of the benches near the doors. The train was still crowded at that late hour and a young man who got on at the next stop sat down next to me. As we approached my stop I got up and grabbed what I thought was one of those steel poles to help get myself up with my pack still on. It turned out that I grabbed the hockey stick the young man next to me was holding. I nearly fell over and felt like a complete jerk. After looking at me like I was crazy for a moment, he and the rest of the passengers broke out in a good natured laugh. Fortunately, no one could tell that I was an American, but I was awfully glad when the doors opened and I could get out.

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Konigssee…Germany’s Hidden Gem

April 24, 2015

Konigssee: Germany’s Hidden Gem

One of my favorite places in Central Europe is the Konigssee. Billed as Germany’s deepest and cleanest lake, Konigsee is an alpine lake tucked away in the southeastern corner of Bavaria where it pokes into Austria. The name, Konigssee, appropriately means King’s Lake and this little slice of Bavaria is certainly fit for a king. Because of the steep, sheer mountain walls surrounding this long, narrow lake, it is not possible to hike around it. But you can take a boat ride on the lake, which stops at the picturesque, much-photographed Baroque church known as St. Bartholoma.

Close to Salzburg and Berchtesgaden

Konigssee is just a stone’s throw away from two additional must-see destinations in Central Europe. Just a few miles away is the infamous, but beautiful World War Two mountaintop hangout of Adolph Hitler and Eva Braun known as Berchtesgaden. After a harrowing bus ride up the steep, winding road clinging to the mountainside you can tour the historic Eagle’s Nest. From there you’ll enjoy a spectacular 360 degree view of the Bavarian Alps and can actually see both the Konigsse and the fabulous city of Salzburg, Austria off in the distance.

Salzburg, Austria from the Hohensalzburg Castle

A Central Europe Itinerary

Excellent train and bus service to this region make it easy to travel independently to many of the interesting tourist destinations in Central Europe. You should plan on ten days to two weeks to explore this area and I recommend using Frankfurt, Germany as the perfect gateway city for your round trip flight. From there you can make a circuit that includes some of the highlights of three countries, Germany, Austria and the Czech Republic. Depending on how much time you have, stops along the way might include Rothenburg, Nurnberg, Munich, Konigssee, Berchtesgaden, Salzburg and Prague. This is just one suggested itinerary for your next visit to the heart of Europe. Be sure to check out our recent articles on each of these destinations by using the search box above.

The Medieval Walled Town of Rothenburg, Germany

Old Town Square at Night, Prague, Czech Republic

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Unique Pattern of Lilac Blossoms in Russia

The Lilacs of Russia

March 26, 2015

Russian Lilacs

Along with warmer weather and burgeoning wildlife activity, colorful flowers are the universal harbingers of Spring. Japan may have its cherry blossoms and Holland may have its tulips, but Russia certainly gives them a run for their money with its spectacular lilacs. I found them all across Russia in many varieties and colors, whether in well-groomed city parks, the rural countryside or the front yard of a private home. The lilac’s scientific name, Syringa vulgaris, doesn’t sound very flattering, but it actually just means ‘common lilac’. In Russia the lilacs are anything but common. They bloom in May, a little later than in the United States, and if you’re fortunate enough to be there when they are out in full glory, you can enjoy mingling with the locals as they delight in the beauty and fragrance of these gorgeous blossoms.

Spectacular Profusion of Lilacs in Russia

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First Day in Russia

February 22, 2015

From Helsinki to St. Petersburg

Many Westerners will enter Russia for the first time on the Allegro Train arriving in St. Petersburg from Helsinki, Finland. This is also a common land excursion for Baltic Sea cruise ship passengers for whom the Russian visa process is expedited. For independent travelers like myself, you must obtain a regular Russian visa before entering the country. I got my three year visa through a private visa agency, Visa HQ, which made the otherwise complicated procedure easy.

The Allegro Train

The three and a half hour ride on this modern, comfortable train goes through some beautiful countryside and you will get to mingle with some real Russian people for the first time. Border formalities, such as customs, passport and visa checks are conducted by border agents onboard the train so that you’re ready to hit the deck running as soon as you arrive in St. Petersburg. Rather than the stereotyped intimidating officers of yore, the border agents on the train were polite, respectful and friendly, giving me a good impression of the Russian people right from my very first day in this beautiful country.

Friendly Folks

As much as I enjoy an adventure, I must say, it was with some trepidation that I made my foray into the Russian Federation for the first time. After all the years of the Cold War standoff between East and West, I wasn’t sure just how an American would be received there and I really wasn’t looking forward to the grey concrete ambiance that Russia was supposedly known for. Boy, was I in for a pleasant surprise! The Russian people were friendly and nice right from the get-go and the surroundings that I found myself in on that beautiful spring day were anything but grey. The kaleidoscope of colors that awaits those fortunate enough to visit St. Petersburg is almost sensory overload.

The Language Barrier

Before leaving home I had made reservations for three nights at the Comfitel Alexandria Hotel in the heart of the city. I set out to find it as soon as I stepped off the train, anxious to unload my heavy backpack. With map in hand I embarked on what would turn out to be an exhausting four hour search that would take me in circles before finding the tiny sign for this otherwise great little hotel. This episode was my first introduction to one of the main challenges of traveling in Russia…the language barrier. I found that very few Russians speak or understand English, even in a big metropolitan city like St. Petersburg. That’s not to say they didn’t try. I stopped to ask directions numerous times and each person knocked themselves out trying to help with sign language. I finally ran into some students who spoke English and knew right where the hotel was located.

The Comfitel Alexandria Hotel

I had a nice room with ensuite bathroom for $85 per night at the Comfitel Alexandria Hotel, which included a great breakfast. The staff were very friendly and helpful and took care of the required country registration for an additional $8. In spite of the difficulty finding it, I would definitely recommend this hotel because of its great, central location, just a short walk from The Hermiage. In addition, it was clean, safe and comfortable, rounding out all of my requirements for an awesome accommodation. And right across the street is a wonderful little café, Café Boge, where I cooled off with a beer and enjoyed mingling with the locals.

Comfitel Alexandria Hotel, St. Petersburg, Russia

Both a Beautiful and a Walkable City

For the next three days I would walk from one end of St. Petersburg to the other, taking in all the sights and sounds and meeting the friendly people who live there. Although it is known for having one of the world’s greatest museums, The Hermitage, there are many other important points of interest. For any traveler who is reasonable fit, the main sights of St. Petersburg can be seen on foot. If you need a break, you can step into one of the many beautiful cathedrals for a respite along the way or sit on a bench in one of the numerous parks to catch your breath. If you visit in Spring, you will have the extra treat of seeing the lilacs out in full bloom and Russia has the most beautiful lilacs I have ever seen throughout the world.

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