Clifden, Connemara, Ireland
Galway was one of my favorite places in Ireland. Not only is it a beautiful city, but there are some interesting sights nearby. I took the bus to Clifden and fell in love with the spectacular scenery of the Connemara region on the West Coast of Ireland. On my walk I passed this wonderful garden gate and ever since then have wondered what was on the other side.
A Garden Gate in Clifden, Connemara, Ireland Read More »
A Favorite Photo from Sligo, Ireland
I saw this beautiful cat sitting next to a globe in a cottage window in Sligo, Ireland and imagined that he was dreaming of traveling the world. This photo was taken near the grave of one of Ireland’s most revered poets, William Butler Yeats, near Ben Bulben, a striking rock formation that dominates the landscape around County Sligo.
A Beautiful City Just Outside the Golden Ring
The Sunday morning train ride from Vladimir to Nizhny Novgorod took a little over two hours and cost about $30. While this was only a small step eastward on the Trans-Siberian Railway, the short ride meant more time to explore this beautiful city. Nizhny Novgorod turned out to be one of my favorite stops on the entire cross county trek and I highly recommend planning a visit here, even if it is just a side trip from Moscow 250 miles away. Nizhny Novgorod is located at the confluence of the Volga River and its largest tributary, the Oka River, making it an important hub of cargo and passenger shipping. The charm and beauty of Russia’s fifth largest city today belies its dark past during Soviet times.
Where the Oka River Meets the Volga
Nizhny Novgorod straddles the Oka River which divides the city into the eastern and western sectors. The main train station is on the western side, while the most popular attractions are on the eastern side of the river. Before leaving the train station I booked my seat on the train to Perm for the next day for about $96. Even with my backpack I enjoyed the long walk from the train station through the bustling streets and over the bridge crossing the Oka River, meeting friendly locals all along the way. I got a nice room with breakfast included at the Hotel Troitskaya for about $84. Located right in the historic district, the hotel was the perfect jumping off place for walking excursions to the main attractions.
Main Points of Interest in Nizhny Novgorod
From my hotel in the historic district I took a walking tour of the eastern sector that encompassed many of the significant sights in Nizhny Novgorod. The route I took was essentially a large circle and in only a few hours I was able to really capture the essence of this wonderful city. The hotel was located just off ul Rozhdestvenskaya, a cobblestone street dating from the 18th century. On this street you will find the Church of the Nativity, one of the most beautiful churches in the city, built by the Stoganovs under Peter the Great. A walk up the hill takes you to the Kremlin which dates back to the 16th century. With its 12 towers and spectacular view of the surrounding area, this is surely the main feature of Nizhny Novgorod. And admission is free! You can walk around the Kremlin walls and then once within the walls you can visit the City Hall, the Governor’s mansion, the Cathedral of the Archangel Michael and the State Art Museum, all punctuated by beautiful gardens. You can also access this bluff by climbing the Chkalov Steps, a serious climb, rising from the banks of the Volga River. At the top you will come to Bolshaya Pokrovskaya, a beautiful pedestrian street lined with interesting buildings, shops and markets. At the end of the street is Gorky Plaza with a statue of the famous Russian author, Maxim Gorky. As you complete the circular walking tour, you come to a beautiful green belt overlooking the Oka River with a spectacular view of the western sector.
Hotel Troitskaya
Recommended in the Trans-Siberian Handbook by Bryn Thomas, the Hotel Troitskaya could not have been in a better location. The long walk from the train station on the other side of the Oka River gave me a good orientation to the city layout and once in the eastern sector the hotel was easy to find. On my return trip the next day, the hotel manager personally walked me to the tram that went directly back to the train station. For about $84 I had a large, well-appointed room at the Troitskaya Hotel with private bath, television, refrigerator and large, cheery windows. The hotel was clean and safe and was operated by a friendly, helpful staff who went out of their way to accommodate their guests. The breakfast the following morning was prepared individually and was outstanding. Considering all that I got for about $84, the Hotel Troitskaya was a good value and rates the designation as an ‘Awesome Accommodation’ on Blue Orb Travel.
Nizhny Novgorod, Russia Read More »
Russia in Springtime
Spring is a wonderful time to visit Russia. The Russian people are serious gardeners and cherish everything that has to do with nature. They seem to have a particular interest in cultivating flowers and as a sideline, beekeeping is quite popular there as well. One of the most spectacular displays of Spring are the lilacs of Russia, which reach their peak blooming period about six weeks after lilacs bloom in North America. As you travel through this fascinating and beautiful country you will see everything from formal public gardens to the country gardens that grace private homes. Even the lowly dandelion is treasured as a ground cover in Russia! Here are a few of my favorite photos of Spring blossoms in the Russian Federation.
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The Golden Ring
The Golden Ring is a collection of picturesque ancient towns northeast of Moscow, noted for their history, culture and architectural splendor. Each town typically has a Kremlin or fortress with watch towers and, because the villages in this region played a significant role in the development of the Russian Orthodox Church, each one is replete with churches, monasteries and onion domed cathedrals. Your first stop on the Trans-Siberian Railway going east from Moscow should be the town of Vladimir. On the three hour train ride you’ll have an opportunity to really mingle with the locals before arriving at your destination. On arrival in Vladimir, the four items on your agenda will be to walk up the hill and get a room at the Hotel Vladimir, return to the train station and book your train reservation for the next town of Nizhny Novgorod for the following day, take the one hour bus ride to Suzdal where you will spend a wonderful day, then return to Vladimir and take a walking tour of this charming medieval town during the early evening.
Suzdal
This onetime capital before power was consolidated in Moscow is actually fortunate that the Trans-Siberian Railway bypassed it and instead went through Vladimir 22 miles away. As a result, this sleepy hamlet has remained essentially unchanged over the years and is now considered one of the most beautiful spots in all of Russia. Straddling the quietly flowing Kamenka River, Suzdal is everything you envisioned about Russia. The old wooden houses, cathedrals, shops and the kremlin are nestled among gently rolling hills, making it easily walkable for most visitors. The walled kremlin dates back to the 11th century and includes a bell tower and the blue domed Nativity of the Virgin Cathedral. The Savior Monastery of St. Euthymius is located on the river and altogether there are more than 30 cathedrals, churches and monasteries studding the countryside around Suzdal. Be sure to also visit the Trading Arcades in the downtown market square and the Museum of Wooden Architecture and Peasant Life. You’ll have plenty of time to relax and enjoy this bucolic setting before catching the bus back to Vladimir.
Vladimir
By the time you get back to Vladimir, it will be late afternoon, but after freshening up at the Hotel Vladimir, you’ll still have time for a walking tour of the town. This ancient city is perched high on a bluff overlooking the Oka Valley and the Oka River, a tributary of the Volga River, affording a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside. Most of the important sites in Vladimir are on the same street as the Hotel Vladimir and during a leisurely, slightly uphill walk, you will first come to the Nativity Monastery, then the square shaped Cathedral of St. Demetrius of Salonica, the Assumption Cathedral and finally the Golden Gate. I was fortunate to have an opportunity to attend mass in the resplendent Assumption Cathedral with its gold domes and 15th century frescoes where many of the princes of ancient Russia were crowned. Perhaps one of the most famous sites in Vladimir is the Golden Gate at the end of the boulevard, which is the only remaining part of the original kremlin walls. It was early to bed for me this night, as I had an 8:30 AM train to catch the next morning, which would take me to Nizhny Novgorod, the next stop on the Trans-Siberian Railway.
Hotel Vladimir
The Hotel Vladimir was a great place to stay while visiting Vladimir and Suzdal. It was just a short walk up the hill from the Vladimir Train Station and was located right in the heart of town. I paid about $55 for a nice room with private bath, but breakfast was not included. The front desk staff members were friendly, welcoming and helpful and the entire facility was clean and safe. There were a number of nice shops and restaurants nearby. For all these reasons I can recommend the Hotel Vladimir and consider it a Blue Orb Travel Awesome Accommodation.
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Moscow to Beijing on the Trans-Siberian Railway
My recent trek on the Trans-Siberian Railway was the adventure of a lifetime. The one month trip beginning in mid-May was a wonderful opportunity to get to know the countries of Russia, Mongolia and China and the friendly people who live there. I flew from San Francisco to Moscow, took the Trains-Siberian Railway from Moscow to Beijing via Mongolia and then flew home to San Francisco, making a complete circuit around the globe. As one of the great train journeys of the world, the Trans-Siberian Railway from Moscow to Beijing is also one of the longest at about 5,800 miles.
Lots of Different Trains
The Trans-Siberian Railway is not a specific train that you get on in Moscow and get off in either Vladivostok on the eastern coast of Russia or in Beijing, China. Rather, it is a series of many trains that you can get on and off as you please, making it possible to tailor your own trip and make stops along the way. After a layover in Moscow, I set out on a Saturday morning for Vladimir, a beautiful little town in what is known as the Golden Ring, three hours away. The local train was packed with Moscovites heading out to the country for the weekend. Check out the video below for a taste of what the first leg of my trip on the Trans-Siberian Railway was like. In the next article, I will show my itinerary and the stops I made along the way, to help you in planning your trip.
Trans-Siberian Railway Read More »
