The six hour train ride from Marseille, France to Genoa, Italy took us through a series of stunningly beautiful settlements along the Mediterranean Coast, many with instantly recognizable names like Toulon, St. Tropez, Cannes, Antibes, Nice, Monte Carlo, San Remo and Savona. From the Cote d’Azur in Southeastern France we crossed the border into Italy and continued along the Ligurian Coast to the port city of Genoa. While not necessarily a tourist destination, Genoa was the boyhood home of Christopher Columbus and has many historic buildings worth a look, including several interesting churches and the palaces of some the noble families of earlier times. I enjoyed window shopping along the plazas and walking through the narrow streets, but one could easily get lost in the maze. Genoa was to be my jumping off place for the Cinque Terre, where I hoped to be the next day. If all went as planned I would catch the early morning train to Monterosso, quickly find a hotel there, and set out on the eight mile hike between the five seaside villages.
Genoa, ItalySidewalk Cafe, Genoa, ItalyColorful Buildings Along the Genoa Waterfront
It was by pure luck that I found this outstanding hotel in Marseille! When traveling by train, I usually try the hotels near the station, making it easy to catch the early train the following morning. More times than not, I find something available at a reasonable rate, but not this time. After checking several hotels near the station and not finding any that met my standards for one reason or another, I decided to look farther into town.
The Hotel Hermes, Marseille, France
Location, Location Location
I took a wrong turn, though, and ended up down by the seaport docks in a ‘not so good’ part of the city and it was about 6 PM by this time! Quickly retracing my steps, I was soon heading down into the heart of Marseille. The first hotel I checked was the Hotel Hermes and they had a nice room with private bath for the equivalent of $70.00 (Fifty Euros). Breakfast was a little extra, but well worth it. The Hotel Hermes is right on the Vieux-Port, the main harbor of Marseille, and had a view across to Notre Dame de la Garde on the hill across the water. The location could not have been better and it was within walking distance of most of the main sights.
Hotel Hermes, Marseille, France
An Awesome Accommodation
The staff at the Hotel Hermes was friendly and helpful and I was able to use their computer to get on the internet and check my email at no additional charge. There was a terrace on the rooftop which looked out over the entire area and I ended my day enjoying the breathtaking nighttime view from that vantage point. If you are looking for a nice, reasonably priced hotel in Marseille with an excellent location, I recommend checking out the Hotel Hermes.
My Room at the Hotel Hermes, Marseille, FranceDining Room at the Hotel Hermes, Marseille, France
Marseille was not originally penciled in on my rough itinerary, but ended up being one of my favorite stops on the trip. Located on the Mediterranean coast in the Provence region of France, it is truly a destination worthy of a visit by even the most discriminating tourist. Surrounded by rocky hills typical of the Mediterranean coast, Marseille is the largest commercial seaport in France. As the second most populous city in France, its international flavor will immediately resonate with visitors. With its elegant hotels, incredible yachts and well-heeled citizens, one would be hard pressed to find any remnant of its former life as a bastion of French communism.
Notre-Dame de la Garde as Seen from Vieux Port
History and Culture
Steeped in history and loaded with interesting sights, Marseille has enough to keep you busy for several days and, when you consider what’s available in the surrounding area, a week might be more like it. But even with only one day, I was able to take in many of the sights, including Notre Dame de la Garde, the beautiful cathedral overlooking the city; Vieux-Port, the harbor filled with yachts and guarded on each side at its entrance by Fort Saint-Jean and Fort Saint-Nicolas; La Corniche, the road and walkway along the coast; the Palais du Pharo, residence of Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III; and the wide boulevard of La Canebiere. My Awesome Accommodations at the Hotel Hermes right on the Vieux-Port will be featured in my next posting, so be sure to check back.
Barcelona, Spain to Marseille, France on the Mediterranean Coast
For the next five days of my circuit around Western Europe by train I would see some of the most famous landmarks and most beautiful scenery in the world. It would take me along the Mediterranean coast from Spain to Italy, with stops in Montpellier, Marseille, Genoa, the Cinque Terre, Rome and finally Naples and the Amalfi Coast. I had seen this region once before looking ashore from the decks of a U.S. Navy ship, but this excursion would give me a whole new perspective looking from shore out to the blue sea from the window of a first class train.
Stopover in Montpellier
We left Barcelona around 9 AM on June 1 and followed the northeastern coast of Spain along the Med for the short distance before crossing the border into France. The train passed through the coastal towns of Perpignan and Narbonne before making a stop around 1:30 PM in Montpellier where I had to change trains. The two hour stopover gave me time to get out and enjoy the main square of this lively city, which was bustling with activity and filled with music.
Montpellier, France
On to Marseille
Back on the train we passed through Nimes and Arles, getting frequent glimpses of the water and the seemingly endless number of picturesque little seaside villages. It was the perfect time of year for a visit…incredibly beautiful weather without the summer crowds. I didn’t want the trip to end as we arrived in Marseille around 5:30 PM. Now I would have to hustle, as it was getting a bit late to start looking for a hotel. I needn’t have worried, since within an hour I was relaxing in what turned out to be one of my Awesome Accommodations, ready to head out to explore another city.
Part Three of a Very Long Day (Two Days, Actually!)
It was a beautiful ride through the countryside of Spain on that early Sunday morning as the train quickly made its way from Madrid to Barcelona. I was wide awake with anticipation despite having gone without sleep for two days by this time. As you can imagine, I was desperately in need of the proverbial ‘shower, shave and shhh…shelter’, so when the train pulled into Barcelona around 11 AM I decided to take no chances and booked a room through the Tourism Office right at the train station. Having heard that available hotel rooms were often difficult to find without reservations in this city and that bargain rooms were virtually nonexistent, I was pleasantly surprised when they were able to book me in a very adequate hotel right on La Rambla, the main pedestrian avenue in central Barcelona. For the equivalent of $63.00 I got a nice room with private bath at the Hotel Fornos, including breakfast.
Palacio Montjuic, Barcelona
La Rambla
Reenergized after a few hours rest, I headed out to explore the city of Barcelona. All I had to do was walk out the front door of my hotel and I was on La Rambla (Las Ramblas). Without worrying about cars, visitors can stroll this tree-line boulevard, watching the street performers, or window shopping or just cooling off with an ice cream cone. Going in the direction of the waterfront I passed the Monument a Colom, commemorating Christopher Columbus, and emerged onto an open square with a beautiful view to the west of the Castell de Montjuic (Hill of the Jews), a fortress overlooking the city.
Barcelona Waterfront
Down by the Waterfront
It was a short walk to the harbor area on the Mediterranean Sea where tourists can visit the museum, an aquarium, a modernistic shopping center and the Olympic Village built for the 1992 Summer Olympics. As an inveterate ‘people watcher’, I found myself milling around this area for several hours enjoying the sights as I mingled with the crowds. I had as much fun as all the kids watching everyone feed the schools of fish from the footbridge going across the port.
Barcelona Cathedral (La Seu)
Wrapped in Scaffolding
On every trip there will be a few disappointments…important sights missed for one reason or another. Sometimes you just don’t have time to see everything or the venue may be closed at the time of your visit. In Barcelona it was the spires of the famous gothic Barcelona Cathedral (La Seu) wrapped in scaffolding. Looking on the positive side, however, it is good to know that landmarks such as this are being maintained and preserved for posterity. For the rest of my day in Barcelona, I walked the narrow streets of the old neighborhoods, including Barri Gotic, La Ribera, and El Raval. After a relaxing dinner I returned to my hotel and hit the sack early. It had been a very long two days, but I wouldn’t have changed it for the world!
The Golden Gate Council of Hostelling International-USA
The Golden Gate Council of Hostelling International USA (HI-USA) held its Annual Member Meeting on January 10 at the World Affairs Council in San Francisco. Executive Director Danielle Brumfitt hosted the meeting, which included an update on the seven hostels located in the San Francisco Bay Area and an additional hostel located near the capitol in Sacramento. Her presentation underscored one of the many reasons that membership in HI-USA is such a bargain. At rates for groups or individuals far below the average for this region, members have an opportunity to enjoy some of the most beautiful and interesting sites the Bay Area has to offer. Imagine staying at a lighthouse overlooking the Pacific Ocean or in highly rated venue in downtown San Francisco without breaking your budget! See below for a complete listing.
Jeff Greenwald Addresses Golden Gate Council
Featured speaker, Jeff Greenwald attracted a large crowd, which he regaled with stories from his years of traveling the globe. His presentation, “Confessions of an Accidental Ambassador” kept the audience laughing, but at the same time drove home the important message that all travelers are personal ambassadors to the world, a philosophy which is shared by Blue Orb Travel as outlined in our Overview. Greenwald is the author of numerous books and articles and is the co-founder and executive director of Ethical Traveler (www.ethicaltraveler.org), a global alliance dedicated to human rights and environmental protection.
If you haven’t joined HI-USA yet, check our link on the left for further information. Your membership not only supports a wonderful organization, but becomes your ticket to bargain stays at some the most interesting locations around the world. Founded in 1958, The Golden Gate Council of HI-USA is dedicated to helping ‘all gain a greater understanding of the world and its people through hostelling’. I can’t wait to try out some of the award-winning hostels the council operates in Northern California!
Hostels in the San Francisco Bay Area
HI-Marin Headlands (marinhostel.org)
HI-Pigeon Point Lighthouse (pigeonpointhostel.org)
HI-Point Montara Lighthouse (montarahostel.org)
HI-Point Reyes (pointreyeshostel.org)
HI-Sacramento (sacramentohostel.org)
HI-San Francisco City Center (sfhostels.com)
HI-San Francisco Downtown (sfhostels.com)
HI-San Francisco Fishermans’s Wharf (sfhostels.com)
