Pulteney Bridge and Weir on the River Avon

Bath, England

1 Comment / August 15, 2011

Bath, England…Just a Short Trip from London

Can you say Bahhth? Open your mouth and say ahh…Bahhth. Bath has it all…interesting history, elegant Georgian architecture, pastoral countryside and friendly inhabitants. I’d been to Bath a number of years ago and had been wanting to get back ever since. It’s the kind of place one could return to over and over again without ever getting tired of it. Less than a two hour train ride from Paddington Station in London, with the ticket costing only $29, Bath is situated on the southwestern edge of England, close to the border with Wales. If you’re driving the 115 miles, you have the added attractions of Stonehenge, the Salisbury Plain and the Salisbury Cathedral as quick side trips from the M4 Motorway. Bath, or Bath Spa as it is also called, is close enough to London to make it a day trip, but I wouldn’t have wanted to miss that beautiful evening in the English countryside!

A Quaint English Village

I arrived in Bath around noon and found a nice hotel near the center of town with no trouble at all. The Parade Park Hotel had a pleasant room with shared bath and a wonderful breakfast for $89.00. For more information on this hotel, check out our listing in Awesome Accommodations by clicking on the red bar above. Heading into town I came upon some sort of fair being held in a big tent at the Recreation Ground, so I popped in, as they say, to check it out. It turned out to be a ‘coffee festival’ and, since it’s always an extra treat to get to participate in a local ‘happening’, I mingled with the townsfolk and sampled coffee from around the world. Recharged with caffeine, I was ready to explore the town. For a city with a population of nearly 85,000, Bath still has the feel of a quaint English village. The main part of town is charming and is centered around the Pulteney Bridge, which crosses over the River Avon overlooking a beautifully designed weir. One could spend hours just looking through the shops and poking around old churches, graveyards, gardens and parks in Bath.

Steeped in History

There are three must see sights in Bath that everyone will tell you about and a fourth that I will describe below, which seems to be somewhat of a secret. In a city named for the baths built by the Romans in AD 43, the number one attraction is naturally going to be the ancient structure they built over the hot springs, which is now the Roman Baths Museum. Coming in at number two is the nearby Bath Abbey with its flying buttresses and gorgeous stained glass windows, begun in 1499 and considered the last of the great medieval churches of England. Finally, a short walk uphill will bring you to The Circus, a circular block exhibiting classic Georgian architecture, and, the even more famous Royal Crescent built between 1767 and 1775. I spent most of the afternoon exploring these and other interesting sights in Bath and after dinner decided to take a walk up the hill on the far side of the city. This is where I found my favorite place in Bath!

Where Ratty and Moley Live

Walking up a side street on the eastern side of Bath, I stopped to reconnoiter and look back on the town below. While taking it all in, I heard the faint sound of a different kind of engine in the distance, along with cheerful voices. Walking a little further I came to an arched bridge crossing a canal just as a boat full of happy revelers was passing beneath. Thus began one of the most pleasant episodes of my entire journey through the British Isles, as I spent the next several hours walking along the canals, exploring the locks, watching the narrow boats pass by and enjoying the countryside so typical of England. Surely, I thought, this is where Ratty and Moley live. Kenneth Grahame’s The Wind in the Willows has been one of my favorite books since childhood and the scenery along the Kennet Avon Canal looked just like the famous color illustrations by Ernest H. Shepard that grace this classic children’s book. I felt like a kid again as I strolled up and down the canal walk, looking for Badger and Mr. Toad and expecting Ratty and the Mole to row by at any moment. There is hardly any mention of the beautiful canals in Bath in the travel guides, but they would certainly be at the top of my list of recommendations if anyone asked me what they should see in this beautiful place!

Warning: If You Watch this Video, You’ll Want to Go There!

The Kennet Avon Canals of Bath, England

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London Central Youth Hostel

August 10, 2011

The London Central Youth Hostel

Hostels are the way to go in London, since hotels there can be extremely expensive. Of course, if you have money to burn or you’re celebrating a special occasion, there are some world class hotels that are definitely worth considering. As a value-minded traveler, however, I would rather stay at a hostel where I will not only save money, but will also have an opportunity to meet interesting people from all over the world with whom I can exchange ideas about what to see and where to go next.

On several past visits to London I stayed at the Earl’s Court Hostel, another excellent choice for anyone visiting the capital of the United Kingdom. Unfortunately, it was already full when I tried to book it in advance, which is a testament to the popularity of hostels at this busy tourist destination. So, this time I tried the London Central Youth Hostel, which is also affiliated with Hostelling International, and it turned out to be a great place to stay. For a minimal annual fee you, too, can become a member of HI and get discounted rates at any of their facilities throughout the world. Be sure to check out our HI link under Travel Resources.

Front Desk at the London Central Youth Hostel

An Awesome Accommodation

The London Central Youth Hostel was a modern, clean, seven story facility managed by a friendly, helpful staff. The location could not be better, since, as its name implies, it is in the center of London. Only a five minute walk to Oxford Street, the hostel is also close to the Great Portland Metro Station where you can easily transfer to some of the major metro and train stations in London, like King’s Cross/St. Pancras and Paddington. On arrival in London, I took the metro from Heathrow Airport to the King’s Cross/St. Pancras station and then transferred to the Great Portland station which was within easy walking distance of the hostel. Once I was checked in and had rested up a bit after my long flight, I set out from the hostel on a walking tour of the major sights of London, including St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Globe Theater, Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, Buckingham Palace, Hyde Park, SoHo and Piccadilly Circus, to name just a few.

Cafe and Reception Area at the London Central Youth Hostel

Beds at the London Central Youth Hostel start at around $25 and I paid $42 for a room shared with 5 other fellows. Family accommodations are available and many rooms have private bathrooms. The hostel has a 24 hour café/bar, web access and a great breakfast for a small additional charge. It’s easy to see why the London Central Youth Hostel is such a popular place to stay and why it is consistently given high marks by visitors. I can highly recommend this hostel to anyone looking for a clean, safe, comfortable, centrally located and reasonably priced place to stay in London.

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Hyde Park with the London Eye Looking on from a Distance

First Stop, London

1 Comment / July 28, 2011

Or How I Saved $300 on the First Day of My Trip

After an overnight flight on United Airlines with a stopover in Calgary, Alberta, Canada, I arrived at London Heathrow the following morning at about 10:30. I’d reserved a bed at the London Central Youth Hostel since I knew where I would be that first night and because hotels in London are notoriously expensive. Before I could relax and begin enjoying one of my favorite gateway cities there were several housekeeping chores that had to be completed. My first job was getting into town from the airport, then I had to find the hostel and get checked in and finally I had to find an ATM to get some Great British Pounds. At the end of this posting I share with you some important travel tips that helped me get these tasks done quickly and got me off to a good start on my trip. As you will see, each one came into play within the first few hours of landing at my destination city.

A ‘Walkable’ City

Planning ahead and knowing a few travel secrets really paid off and by early afternoon I was hoofing it around London. Although this fun and interesting place is one of the major cities of the world, it is still very ‘walkable’ for the fit traveler. I had been to London a number of times before, but there are certain places that I never get tired of seeing, no matter how many times I’ve seen them before. Starting from the hostel I made a circuit around the city visiting some of the world’s most famous sights, including St. Paul’s Cathedral, Trafalgar Square, Nelson’s Column, the site of Shakespeare’s Globe Theater, Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, Whitehall, No. 10 Downing Street, Hyde Park, SoHo and Piccadilly Circus. It was especially fun to see Westminster Abbey and Buckingham Palace just a few weeks after William and Kate were wed. Hopefully, I didn’t cause an international incident when I found myself in the wrong place during the changing of the guards at Whitehall!

John Gets a Little Too Close to the Guards at Whitehall!

New Attractions Among the Old (Some Very Old!)

This time there were several new attractions on my list of things to see in London, like the Millennium Bridge (footbridge across the Thames), the Ferris wheel (known as the London Eye) and the Diana Memorial Fountain (honoring Princess Diana). The footbridge and Ferris wheel seemed to be a magnet for young families and it was fun mingling with them as they enjoyed a beautiful Saturday afternoon along the Thames. It seems that each time I visit London I discover something new. On one trip the highlight was taking the tour of Buckingham Palace. Another time it was visiting the Royal Mews and actually getting to see the Cinderella Coach! This time I was struck by the beauty of Hyde Park…such a serene and pastoral setting so close to the hustle-bustle of the city. The nearby Diana Memorial Fountain seemed to be an appropriate and fitting tribute to the Princess and she certainly would have approved of all the children frolicking through the water as it cascades down the oval, granite-lined stream bed.

Princess Diana Would Approve of the Children Playing in Her Fountain

Miles to Go

I’m already looking forward to my next visit to London when, once again, I’ll enjoy seeing something old and something new. My relaxing first day in this fabulous city just whetted my appetite for the rest of the trip still ahead of me. I would be up early the next morning to catch the first train heading west to Bath. Sure hope you’ll join me as I wend my way through England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland over the next three weeks.

The Millennium Bridge with St. Paul's Cathedral in Background — The Millennium Bridge with St. Paul’s Cathedral in Background

Tricks of an Experienced Traveler

1) Join Hostelling International and take your membership card with you on every tip. Take advantage of the great lodging they provide at locations throughout the world, especially in cities where hotels are expensive. The London Central Youth Hostel was a modern, clean facility located in the heart of London. I shared a room with five other travelers for $40 rather than spending hundreds of dollars to sleep for a few hours in a hotel room.

2) Consider reserving accommodations ahead on the first and last nights of your trip when you know where you will be. It relieves a little of the stress after a long flight at the beginning of the trip and again after a number of days on the road at the end of the trip.

3) Get a Capital One Credit Card and use it often. It is the only credit card that I know of that does not charge a foreign transaction fee. I used it to purchase a metro ticket into London before I had a chance to withdraw cash from an ATM and it came in handy numerous times throughout the rest of my trip. Don’t you love Capital One’s commercials with the Vikings and the Goat! What’s in your wallet?

4) Do your homework ahead of time and find out which of your ATM cards charge the lowest fees overseas. For me it was Citibank (depends on your account) and USAA. I checked the locations of Citibank ATMs in London before I left home and headed for one as soon as I arrived in the city.

5) Ask questions. The fare from Heathrow Airport to Paddington Station in London on the Express Train is nearly $30 and you still might need to buy a metro ticket from there. For only $8 and about a 30 minute longer trip you can take the metro from Heathrow to any location in London. The ticket agents for rail service throughout Great Britain and Ireland are extremely nice and helpful and are happy to assist you in finding the least expensive fare for any leg of your trip.

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The British Isles

July 15, 2011

The British Isles

Well, I did it again! Just got back from another fabulous three week journey to one of the most beautiful and interesting parts of the world, all without spending a lot. This time I traveled through England, Wales and Scotland by train, crossed the Irish Sea by ferry and then toured Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland by bus. The weather could not have been nicer and I met friendly folks everywhere I went. It was my first visit to Wales and Ireland, which made the trip particularly special, and I was able to squeeze in even more than I had anticipated. Believe me…everything you have heard about the beautiful countryside and the friendly people who inhabit this area is true!

A Trek Through England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland

From York to Cork, Derry to Kerry, Conwy to Galway, and Killarney to Blarney…I saw it all and everything in between! In the next few posts on this travel blog I will be describing some of the highlights of the trip, including photos of the castles I explored, my visit to the ancestral homes of my Grandparents in Edinburgh, Scotland, a picturesque train ride through the heart of Wales, and the stunningly beautiful scenery of the Emerald Isle. Every trip has its share of adventures and this one was no exception. You won’t want to miss the upcoming articles where I recount my experiences kissing the Loch Ness Monster and searching for the Blarney Stone. Or was it searching for the Loch Ness Monster and kissing the Blarney Stone? Be sure to check back later to find out!

Lots of Travel Tips

If you are contemplating a trip to the British Isles, I will have lots of information, suggestions and tips on transportation, points of interest, itineraries and lodging. With a little bit of advance planning, you will be surprised at the reasonable rates available for ground transportation throughout this region. I had extremely good luck finding high quality lodging everywhere I went, often staying in Bed and Breakfasts along the way. Many of them were truly outstanding and I will be providing detailed information and links to the establishments that I can recommend to my readers. One of the most fun parts of my journey was meeting and getting to know the proprietors of some the B and Bs where I stayed.

Let’s Go!

So, hang on tight and prepare yourself for an interesting overview of the British Isles that will give you lots of good ideas for planning your own vacation. Remember, you, too, can have a wonderful, fun filled trip, packed with adventure, history, beautiful scenery and friendly people, all without spending a lot.

I Ate at McDonald's a Lot! — I Ate at McDonald’s a Lot!

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How to Take a Train Trip Around Europe Without Spending a Lot

July 9, 2011

An Inexpensive Train Trip Around Europe

Just to show that you, too, can vacation in Europe, taking in some of the most beautiful sights in the world, without spending a lot, I have summarized my itinerary and totaled the expenses for my recent train odyssey around Europe. The details of this fantastic trip have been described in detail in the most recent postings on this website. Looking back, it was one of the best trips I’ve ever taken. I hope this will encourage you to take the plunge and get out there and see this interesting part of the world.

Itinerary

Day 1; Fly from San Francisco, California to Frankfurt, Germany

Day 2: Arrive Frankfurt; take train to Mannheim, Germany

Day 3: Paris, France

Day 4: Bordeaux, France

Day 5: San Sabastian, Spain

Madrid, Spain

Day 6: Barcelona, Spain

Day 7: Marsailles, France

Day 8: Genoa, Italy

Day 9: Monterosso, Italy and the Cinque Terre Hike

Day 10: Rome, Italy, including the Vatican

Day 11: Naples, Italy and Sorrento, Positano and the Amalfi Coast

Day 12: Bologna, Italy

Day 13: Innsbruck, Austria

Day 14: Nuremburg, Germany

Day 15: Prague, Czech Republic

Day 16: Berlin, Germany

Day 17: Frankfurt, Germany

Day 18: Fly from Frankfurt, Germany to San Francisco, California

Consider substituting your own destination choices in place of Bordeaux, France, San Sabastian, Spain and Bologna, Italy…perhaps for more time in Rome and Naples, Italy. Remember also that you must be flexible when traveling without reservations. For example, when I couldn’t find lodging in San Sabastian, I went on to Madrid, arriving at 11 PM, and ended up staying up all night partying with the locals. Not in my original plans, but definitely a night to remember!

Summary of Costs

Airfare, San Francisco to Frankfurt, roundtrip $481.50

Found this great deal at www.Kayak.com

Eurail Pass, 15 Day $717.00

Eurail Supplements/Reservations $111.00

Food (most breakfasts included in lodging) $200.00

Average $10.00 per day

Lodging (average $65.00 per night) $1,091.00

Total $2600.50

It’s An Even Better Deal When Two Travel Together!

For a two and a half week trip to Europe, $2600.50 for total expenses is awesome! Remember that when two are traveling together, the second Eurail ticket is less expensive than the first. Also, lodging for two will average less per person than for a single traveler. With a little planning and attention to costs along the way, you, too, can have a great trip like I had without spending a lot.

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Berlin, The Capital of a Unified Germany

1 Comment / June 12, 2011

Berlin, Germany

Rounding out my three week whirlwind circuit around Europe was a quick stop in Berlin, Germany. The enjoyable four hour train ride from Prague to Berlin took us through some beautiful country and the historic city of Dresden along the Elbe River. Ending up in the capital of Germany would put me in a good position to complete the final leg of my trip back to Frankfurt for the flight home. That night in Berlin I stayed at a very nice hotel called Motel One (an ingloriously named chain of budget hotels in Germany) for the equivalent of $107, including a great breakfast.

A Big, But Walkable, City

While reunified Berlin is a huge city, it is still very possible to see a good deal of it on foot. Berlin is actually composed of numerous boroughs or districts, each with its own distinct personality. It is traversed by several famous avenues such as the Kurfurstendamm (known as the Ku’ Damm) and Unter den Linden, both large boulevards lined with historic buildings, chick boutiques and snazzy hotels. Many of the most important sights lie in the Mitte or central part of Berlin, once divided by the infamous wall. Berlin boasts a large zoo, know as a Tiergarten (animal garden), the famous Olympic Stadium of the Nazi era and numerous galleries, museums and cathedrals, such as the Berliner Dom, as well as the Charlottenburg Castle.

The Brandenburg Gate

Perhaps the most recognizable symbol of Berlin is the Brandenburg Gate, dating back to the 1700s when it was built as a symbol of victory by Friedrich Wilhelm II. Located in the center of the city, it once formed part of the Berlin Wall, but has now been returned to its former glory as a symbol of the newly reunited Germany. The Brandenburg Gate is also the sight of one of the most important speeches of the 20^th Century. It was there on June 12, 1987 that U. S. President Ronald Reagan implored Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev to “Tear Down This Wall”!

The Reichstag

Originally opened in 1894, the historic Reichstag building currently houses the reunified German government or Bundestag. A fire in this building in 1933 became the excuse for Adolph Hitler to declare a state of emergency, enabling his Nazi Party to seize control of Germany. In 1997 a glass dome was constructed on the top of the Reichstag, providing visitors with a thrilling 360 degree view of the city below. Best of all, entrance is free!

The Berlin Wall and Check Point Charlie

The construction of the Berlin Wall was instigated by the Soviet Union in 1961 as a way to keep ‘captives’ in East Berlin from escaping to the West. Every student of history will want to visit the last remaining evidence of the Berlin Wall and check out ‘Check Point Charlie’, the best known crossing between East and West Berlin during the Cold War. Now a museum, Check Point Charlie (for Check Point ‘C’) was featured in many movies set during the Cold War. Anyone who watched on TV as the young people of Berlin occupied the wall when it finally came down in November 1989 will experience the thrill once again as they visit the actual site.

Memorial for the Murdered Jews of Europe

The abstract ‘Memorial for the Murdered Jews of Europe’ which occupies an entire block in the Mitte was opened in 2005. Visitors can walk through an irregular field of concrete slabs designed to give one the feeling of uncertainty, instability and confusion, evoking some of the emotions prevalent during the time of the Holocaust. Beneath the memorial is an information center and Holocaust museum.

Last Stop, Frankfurt

I have shared some of the things I enjoyed most about Berlin, but every visitor to a ‘city of the world’ like this will come away with a different perspective and have their own list of favorites. The morning after my visit to Berlin I ‘completed the circle’ of my 18 day train trip around Europe by returning to Frankfurt Germany. With its central location, great shopping, interesting sights and convenient airport where I would catch my flight home the next day, Frankfurt is one of my favorite ‘gateway cities’ (see our article on Gateway Cities). In my next article I will give a quick round up of this fantastic trip with an overview of the itinerary and total costs, showing that you, too, can see some of the best of Europe without spending a lot.

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