Europe

The Colosseum

Rome in a Day

A Walking Tour of Rome and the Vatican

          While I was reluctant to leave the seaside splendor of the Cinque Terre, it was time to move on.  There is so much to see in Italy and I wanted to squeeze in as much as I could.  I boarded the train in Monterosso on the morning of June 4 and several hours later arrived in Rome.  The contrast couldn’t have been more striking.  From the colorful villages and picturesque vineyard terraces clinging to the rugged hills over the Mediterranean Sea to the sprawling mega-metropolis of modern Rome!  In short order I found a good hotel (The Hotel California, of all things!) for the equivalent of $83.00, including breakfast, and it was close to many of the historic destinations that I wanted to see.

Swiss Guards at the Vatican
Swiss Guards at the Vatican

Ancient Rome

          For the rest of the day I took a walking tour of Rome and the Vatican, visiting a good number of the ‘must see’ sights that the capital of Italy and one time capital of the Roman Empire has to offer.  After starting at perhaps the most recognized symbol of Italy, the Colosseum, I then found the other nearby monuments of the ancient city, including Palatine Hill, the Circus Maximus, and the Roman Forum.

The Colosseum
The Colosseum

The Vatican

          From there I walked along the Tiber River to the Vatican, taking in the many tree-lined boulevards and architecturally beautiful bridges that bisected it along the way.  Unfortunately, the Vatican was closed by the time I got there, but I had already seen the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica on previous visits.  After spending an hour or so checking out the Piazza San Pietro and the outside grounds of Vatican City it was getting on towards the end of the day.

St. Peter's Basilica Across the Tiber River
St. Peter’s Basilica Across the Tiber River

Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps

          As the sun went down, I explored the labyrinthine streets and alleys of Rome, and came to realize just what a huge city it is!  With some difficulty, I found the Pantheon with its 2000 year old dome and then the Victor Emmanuel II Monument, a tribute to the first king of a united Italy.  As darkness was setting in I made it to the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps, where I could finally rest my tired feet and just enjoy mingling with the locals and other tourists who were out on a beautiful evening.  For the first time visitor, Rome deserves several full days, at a minimum, to do it justice, but for a returning visitor, hitting the highlights was a perfect way to reconnect with one of the most important ancient capitals of the world.

The Trevi Fountain
The Trevi Fountain

 The Highlights of Rome

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The Hotel Cinque Terre

Hotel Cinque Terre, Monterosso, Italy

Hotel Cinque Terre

          On the morning of Wednesday, June 3, 2009 I left Genoa, Italy, hoping to get any early start on the Cinque Terre hike.  The train packed with other tourists arrived at Monterosso, the first of the five villages on the Cinque Terre, at 10:30 AM and by 11:30 I had found a hotel, unpacked, prepared my day pack and hit the trail.  After checking several overpriced hotels right on the beach, I headed up the street and a short block inland where I found the aptly named Hotel Cinque Terre.  They had a very nice room available with private bath and a window looking out to their courtyard for the equivalent of about $98.00, which included breakfast.  I consider this a good price for a great hotel at one of the premier destinations of the world!  The members of the staff were very accommodating to let me check in at that hour of the morning and went out of their way to clean the room early so that it would be all ready for me.  It was a great feeling to know that I could leave my pack in a safe place while I spent the rest of the day hiking the eight mile trail to the other villages and that I would have a nice hot shower and clean bed to return to at the end of the day.

The Hotel Cinque Terre
The Hotel Cinque Terre
My Room at the Hotel Cinque Terre
My Room at the Hotel Cinque Terre

An Awesome Accommodation!

          The Hotel Cinque Terre, or Hotel ‘5’ Terre as they sometimes refer to it, has 54 rooms with private baths and a limited amount of car parking available.  It is just a short walk to the beautiful, sandy beach of Monterosso on the Mediterranean Sea.  The large lobby had the feel of a first class hotel, yet was warm and inviting.  The front desk was manned by a friendly, helpful, multilingual staff who helped point me in the direction of the beginning of the trail.  The Hotel Cinque Terre was very clean and well maintained and met all the standards I look for in accommodations while I travel, namely sanitation, safety, friendly staff, available breakfast, good location and good value.  I must say, the breakfast the next morning was fabulous and I actually had to nudge myself to get back on the train heading for my next destination, Rome.

My Room at the Hotel Cinque Terre
My Room at the Hotel Cinque Terre
Dining Room at the Hotel Cinque Terre
Dining Room at the Hotel Cinque Terre

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Vernazza on the Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera

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The Cinque Terre Hike

          The Cinque Terre is one of those destinations that everyone should try to visit some time in their lives and the eight mile Cinque Terre hike is an absolute must for anyone who is fit and able to walk.  The Cinque Terre (pronounced Cheeng-Kway Tear-ray; tear as in to cut, not as in tear from the eye; and be sure to roll the r’s) means five lands and is a collection of five hillside villages located on the rugged Ligurian Coast of Italy or the Italian Riviera.  The village of Vernazza, in particular, you will immediately recognize from travel photos you have seen many times in the past.  From north to south the villages are Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore.

Vernazza on the Cinque Terre
The Famous Village of Vernazza on the Cinque Terre

Start at Monterosso

          I caught the train at 8 AM in Genoa to the north and from that point on everything went like clockwork, making this one of the most enjoyable days of my trip.  We stopped at little towns all along the way picking up more people at each stop until the train was standing room only.  It was pretty obvious where everyone was heading, since most had shorts, hiking shoes and day packs.  I met people from all over the world on the short train ride and we all chatted excitedly about our plans for the day.  Some, like me, were going to get off at Monterosso, the northern most village, and hike south.  Others were going to stay on the train until they got to the southern most village of Riomaggiore and hike north.  Later that day along the trail I would pass some of these same people going the opposite way and we would all call out a cheerful greeting as we recognized one another from the train.

Monterosso, Italy on the Cinque Terre
Monterosso, Italy on the Cinque Terre

Best Hike Ever!

          The train arrived in Monterosso at 10:30 AM and I was immediately able to find a nice hotel, aptly named Hotel Cinque Terre, which I will feature in the next article on Awesome Accommodations.  By 11:30 AM I was on the trail enjoying the spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea as I hiked through the terraced hillsides of vineyards and olive orchards between each of the five villages.  The weather could not have been nicer and I was glad I had come prepared with good hiking shoes and plenty of water.  The eight mile hike took me four hours and I got back on the train at the fifth village of Riomaggiore heading back to Monterosso by 3:30 PM.  Be sure to check out the video of the Cinque Terre Hike below!

The Cinque Terre Hike, Italy
The Cinque Terre Hike, Italy

Take the Train Back

          If you only have the time or energy to do one portion of the hike, I recommend the section between Monterosso and Vernazza.  It is the most difficult stretch, but I believe the most beautiful and Vernazza is one place you would not want to miss.  The train stops near each of the five villages so even non-hikers can enjoy these quaint little towns.  The train system makes it extremely handy in that you need only do the hike in one direction and can then take the train back to your starting point.  After returning to Monterosso I enjoyed the evening exploring this beautiful area in more detail and had a nice dinner at a sidewalk café.  Looking south as the sun went down I could see the lights of the other villages I had visited earlier in the day twinkling off in the distance.

Rugged Coast on the Cinque Terre Hike
Rugged Coast on the Cinque Terre Hike

Don’t Miss This Video of the Cinque Terre Hike!


A Photo Gallery of the Cinque Terre

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Genoa, Italy

The French and Italian Rivieras

The French and Italian Rivieras

From Marseille, France to Genoa, Italy

          The six hour train ride from Marseille, France to Genoa, Italy took us through a series of stunningly beautiful settlements along the Mediterranean Coast, many with instantly recognizable names like Toulon, St. Tropez, Cannes, Antibes, Nice, Monte Carlo, San Remo and Savona. From the Cote d’Azur in Southeastern France we crossed the border into Italy and continued along the Ligurian Coast to the port city of Genoa. While not necessarily a tourist destination, Genoa was the boyhood home of Christopher Columbus and has many historic buildings worth a look, including several interesting churches and the palaces of some the noble families of earlier times. I enjoyed window shopping along the plazas and walking through the narrow streets, but one could easily get lost in the maze. Genoa was to be my jumping off place for the Cinque Terre, where I hoped to be the next day. If all went as planned I would catch the early morning train to Monterosso, quickly find a hotel there, and set out on the eight mile hike between the five seaside villages.

Genoa, Italy
Genoa, Italy
Sidewalk Cafe, Genoa, Italy
Sidewalk Cafe, Genoa, Italy
Colorful Buildings Along the Genoa Waterfront
Colorful Buildings Along the Genoa Waterfront

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The Hotel Hermes, Marseille, France

Hotel Hermes, Marseille, France

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Hotel Hermes, Marseille, France

          It was by pure luck that I found this outstanding hotel in Marseille!  When traveling by train, I usually try the hotels near the station, making it easy to catch the early train the following morning.  More times than not, I find something available at a reasonable rate, but not this time.  After checking several hotels near the station and not finding any that met my standards for one reason or another, I decided to look farther into town.

The Hotel Hermes, Marseille, France
The Hotel Hermes, Marseille, France

Location, Location Location

          I took a wrong turn, though, and ended up down by the seaport docks in a ‘not so good’ part of the city and it was about 6 PM by this time!  Quickly retracing my steps, I was soon heading down into the heart of Marseille.  The first hotel I checked was the Hotel Hermes and they had a nice room with private bath for the equivalent of $70.00 (Fifty Euros).  Breakfast was a little extra, but well worth it.  The Hotel Hermes is right on the Vieux-Port, the main harbor of Marseille, and had a view across to Notre Dame de la Garde on the hill across the water.  The location could not have been better and it was within walking distance of most of the main sights.

Hotel Hermes, Marseille, France
Hotel Hermes, Marseille, France

An Awesome Accommodation

          The staff at the Hotel Hermes was friendly and helpful and I was able to use their computer to get on the internet and check my email at no additional charge.  There was a terrace on the rooftop which looked out over the entire area and I ended my day enjoying the breathtaking nighttime view from that vantage point.  If you are looking for a nice, reasonably priced hotel in Marseille with an excellent location, I recommend checking out the Hotel Hermes.

My Room at the Hotel Hermes, Marseille, France
My Room at the Hotel Hermes, Marseille, France
Dining Room at the Hotel Hermes, Marseille, France
Dining Room at the Hotel Hermes, Marseille, France

http://www.hotelmarseille.com

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Notre-Dame de la Garde from Vieux Port

Marseille, France

Marseille, On the Mediterranean Coast

          Marseille was not originally penciled in on my rough itinerary, but ended up being one of my favorite stops on the trip.  Located on the Mediterranean coast in the Provence region of France, it is truly a destination worthy of a visit by even the most discriminating tourist.  Surrounded by rocky hills typical of the Mediterranean coast, Marseille is the largest commercial seaport in France.  As the second most populous city in France, its international flavor will immediately resonate with visitors.  With its elegant hotels, incredible yachts and well-heeled citizens, one would be hard pressed to find any remnant of its former life as a bastion of French communism.

Notre-Dame de la Garde from Vieux Port
Notre-Dame de la Garde as Seen from Vieux Port

History and Culture

          Steeped in history and loaded with interesting sights, Marseille has enough to keep you busy for several days and, when you consider what’s available in the surrounding area, a week might be more like it.  But even with only one day, I was able to take in many of the sights, including Notre Dame de la Garde, the beautiful cathedral overlooking the city; Vieux-Port, the harbor filled with yachts and guarded on each side at its entrance by Fort Saint-Jean and Fort Saint-Nicolas; La Corniche, the road and walkway along the coast; the Palais du Pharo, residence of Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III; and the wide boulevard of La Canebiere.  My Awesome Accommodations at the Hotel Hermes right on the Vieux-Port will be featured in my next posting, so be sure to check back.

Marseille, France at Night
Marseille, France at Night

Marseille, France

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