Vientiane, Laos

3 Comments / July 11, 2013

A Quiet Capital City

Compared with the capital cities of other countries, Vientiane may seem a little quiet and sleepy to first time visitors, but beneath its placid façade is a vibrant metropolis teeming with friendly inhabitants and interesting sights. Many tourists will arrive at Nong Khai after the 15 hour overnight train ride from Bangkok, Thailand (Train 69), as I did. The cost for a lower berth was about $24.

Arriving at the Nong Khai, Thailand Railway Station on the Laotian Border

Then, for about 64 cents you can purchase a connecting train ticket for the 15 minute ride to Thanaleng by way of the Friendship Bridge over the Mekong River into Laos. You will exit Thai immigration and then purchase a visa on arrival for Laos in Thanaleng for $35. From there I took a minivan into Vientiane with seven other travelers who I met on the train, which cost us each about $3. So, what I thought would be a complicated border crossing turned out to be quite easy and it was fun for those of us traveling on the same train to find our way together. Once in the city, you can easily walk to many of the major sights and the others can be reached by tuk-tuk or on a rented bicycle.

Getting a 'Visa on Arrival' at Thanaleng, Laos — Getting a ‘Visa on Arrival’ at Thanaleng, Laos

Tuk-Tuk Tour

Vientiane lies on the eastern side of the Mekong River across from Thailand which flanks the western bank. As soon as I reached the center of town I found a great little hotel (see below) and then went to the bus station to purchase my ticket to Luang Prabang for the following day. Chores out of the way, I finally had time to get excited about being in a new country for the first time. Most of the important sights can be reached on foot from the central area of Vientiane. The two exceptions are the Victory Gate or Patuxai and the temple complex at Phra That Luang, which are best reached by tuk-tuk. Set in the middle of the wide Lane Zang Avenue, the Victory Gate is an impressive structure reminiscent of the Arch de Triumph in Paris. Although it is made of cement, the form and architectural details make for an interesting, if somewhat imposing structure. Completed in 1968 using U.S. government funds originally meant to build an airport, it features four arches and five towers. For about 40 cents you can purchase a ticket to climb the 158 steps to the top for a spectacular view of the surrounding area, including the nearby Ministry of Justice and the Prime Minister’s office.

Continuing farther out from the city center in a northeasterly direction you will come to the Buddhist temple complex of Phra That Luang. The main building is a spectacular gold leaf structure built in 1556, which is the national symbol of Laos. Surrounding sights include the Golden Reclining Buddha and a number of other beautiful temples. In my opinion, the Victory Gate and the temple complex of Phra That Luang are the two ‘must see’ sights in Vientiane.

Phra That Luang Buddhist Temple, Vientiane, Laos

The River Promenade

Many of the attractions of interest to tourists, including hotels, restaurants and shopping can be found back towards the center of town, along the Mekong River. Several important sights are in this region as well. The Presidential Palace is worth a look, as is the old temple of Wat Si Saket. But for my money, the River Promenade is the place to be for mingling with the locals and just getting the feel of life in Laos.

The Mekong River Promenade with King Chao Anouvong Statue

Especially after dark, the area comes alive with people…couples on a stroll, kids playing soccer, or families picnicking. It’s fun to check out the street vendors peddling their wares and to go window shopping for a restaurant, trying to decide upon one of the many excellent choices. But by about 11 PM they ‘roll up the sidewalks’ in the sleepy city of Vientiane and all becomes quiet once again.

Playful Boys Hamming It Up for the Camera, Vientiane, Laos

Eating and Sleeping

The very first hotel I checked on arriving in the center of town turned out to be a winner. The Mixok Inn (not to be confused with the Mixok Guesthouse) had a nice room with air conditioning, private bath, TV and free Wifi for $19. And that included breakfast! It is just a short walk to all the attractions and activities along the River Promenade, including the night market. The hotel has a tour desk where I was able to arrange a ride to the bus station for the following morning. Free public parking is available nearby and the airport is but a ten minute drive away. The staff members were friendly and helpful and the facility was clean and secure. The Mixok Inn was a bargain and ticked all the boxes on my list of required features for an awesome accommodation.

In the evening I had a wonderful dinner of pizza and Tiger Beer at an outstanding French restaurant, the Cote d’Azur, for a very reasonable $10. The ambiance and open air feel of the restaurant right on the River Promenade made for a very pleasant dining experience. I can highly recommend both the Mixok Inn and the Cote d’Azur if you are looking for a great place to stay and a wonderful place to eat in Vientiane, Laos. Both provide an excellent value for your money.

Pizza and Tiger Beer at the Cote d' Azure Restaurant, Vientiane, Laos — Pizza and Tiger Beer at the Cote d’ Azure Restaurant, Vientiane, Laos

View from the Victory Gate, Vientiane, Laos

Buddhist Temple on the Grounds of Phra That Luang, Vientiane

Vientiane, Laos Read More »

Tree Growing from Ta Prohm Temple Ruins at Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Intro to Indochina

2 Comments / May 5, 2013

Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia

Having made my way up the Malay Peninsula from Singapore to Bangkok, it was now time to continue my journey into uncharted territory. Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia had long been on my bucket list of must-see destinations, but it was with some trepidation that I contemplated the logistics of traveling through the rugged countryside, crossing multiple borders into communist countries, and arranging suitable transportation and lodging, all the while grappling with several different languages. As I was soon to discover, my concerns were all for naught. I was able to easily navigate my way through some of the most beautiful country on earth, inhabited by some of the friendliest folks I have ever encountered in my travels throughout the world. In upcoming articles we’ll visit the cities of Vientiane and Luang Prabang in Laos; Hanoi, Hoi An and Saigon in Vietnam; and Phnom Penh and Siem Reap in Cambodia. We’ll also explore two fabulous UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Ha Long Bay and Angkor Wat.

The Charming Colonial City of Luang Prabang, Laos

History and Culture

Historically, Indochina refers to the three countries of Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia on the Southeast Asian peninsula. This region was known as French Indochina during the period when these countries were colonies of France from about 1884 to 1954. The Kingdoms of Laos and Cambodia were granted independence from France in 1949, but Vietnam would have a much longer journey to becoming the country it is today. The Indochina War was largely a conflict between France and the Viet Minh in the north of Vietnam and began in 1946 shortly after the end of World War II. It ended in 1954 with the partition of Vietnam into North and South. Enter the Americans one year later and the rest, as they say, is history! While the peoples of Indochina are quite separate from those of both India and China, the name Indochina can be attributed to the location of this region between these two larger countries. While each of the three countries comprising today’s Indochina is ethnically diverse, the Khmers can be identified as the majority in Cambodia and the Kinh (Viet) in Vietnam. Laos, on the other hand, is a much more diverse conglomeration of many tribes and languages.

Hoa Lo Prison Known as the Hanoi Hilton, Vietnam

Indochina Itinerary

The major sights of Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia can easily be covered by taking a circular route beginning and ending in the gateway city of Bangkok, Thailand. I traveled in a clockwise direction, starting with the overnight train ride from Bangkok to Vientiane, Laos. What I thought would be a complicated border crossing over the Friendship Bridge at Nong Khai into Laos turned out to be quite simple and went exactly according to how it was described in The Man in Seat 61. You can purchase a visa on arrival for Laos there for $35. After an overnight in Vientiane, I took the 11 hour bus ride through the beautiful northern hill country of Laos to the incredibly charming UNESCO World Heritage City of Luang Prabang on the Mekong River. To save time and avoid the long, arduous bus ride over the mountains to Hanoi, I took the one hour flight from Luang Prabang to Hanoi the following day on Lao Airlines for $150. Arriving in Vietnam by plane also enables travelers to purchase a visa on arrival rather than applying for a visa in advance which is required at land border crossings. After two nights in Hanoi and a day trip to Ha Long Bay I took the overnight train to the ancient city of Hoi An via Da Nang for $45. Again to save time, I took the one hour flight the following day from Da Nang to Saigon on Vietnam Airlines. After a one day visit to Saigon I took a bus to Phnom Penh, Cambodia for $20 and was able to purchase a visa on arrival at the border for $25. The following day I took the five hour bus ride to Siem Reap for $12.00. After two days in Siem Reap with ample time to explore Ankor Wat, I completed the final leg of my circuitous journey by taking the nine and a half hour bus ride back to Bangkok for another $12. Hopefully, these details will be helpful for those planning an independent sojourn through Indochina.

Bargain Hunter’s Paradise

Hurry! These prices won’t last! At the risk of sounding like the proverbial used car salesman, I can’t stress enough that the price for everything from hotels to restaurants to transportation and shopping are incredibly low throughout Indochina, making it a true bargain hunter’s paradise. It’s no wonder that frugal students and backpackers flock to this region every year to take advantage of the great deals. Imagine a wonderful hotel with a pool and a fabulous breakfast for $50 or a delightful meal in a French restaurant for $7. Or how ‘bout a comfortable minibus ride from Cambodia to Thailand for $12 or a souvenir tee shirt for $1. As word gets out, prices are sure to go up, so if you are thinking of a trip to Indochina, now might be the time. In future articles we will explore this region in greater detail, so be sure to check back with us here at Blue Orb Travel for some great information on what to see and where to stay during your visit.

Intro to Indochina Read More »

Bangkok, Thailand

4 Comments / March 5, 2013

How Bangkok Got Its Name

OK, now that I’ve got your attention, perhaps you’ve wondered about some of the place names in Thailand, like Bangkok and Phuket (and we won’t even mention Bang Sue, Dong Rak and Ban Pornpis). As you can well imagine, the way you pronounce them can make a big difference! So where did these appellations come from and what do they mean? Actually, the name for Thailand’s capital city came from the Thai word bang, meaning village on a stream, and ko, meaning island. This makes perfect sense, considering the vital importance of the many waterways in this region, especially the rivers and canals of Bangkok. The beach studded island of Phuket (Careful! It’s pronounced pu-ket.) off the southwestern coast of peninsular Thailand is a perennial favorite of American sailors who are attracted by the name, the girls and the bars, not necessarily in that order. The name comes from bukit, meaning hill, after the mountainous terrain of the island. So, in Thailand the names can be long, interesting and often amusing and this fascinating feature of Thai culture extends to family names as well. Just ask the famous Thai boxer, Terdsak Kokietgym!

John at the Grand Palace, Bangkok, Thailand

Getting Your Bearings in a Very Big City

Bangkok is one of the largest cities in the world, both in terms of size and population, so it’s not surprising that I found it somewhat complicated trying to figure out how to get around. Fortunately, many shop owners, policemen and taxi drivers speak enough English to make communication fairly easy. As in my case, many visitors will arrive in Thailand at the huge Hua Lamphong Railway Station located in the center of Bangkok. In addition to the shops and fast food outlets within this 100 year old architectural wonder, I was also glad to find a convenient and reliable money changer. The lobby is continuously crowded with travelers making connections to the Malay Peninsula, Laos, Cambodia and other cities throughout Thailand. Bangkok has a great Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) system connecting major points in the city, the Railway Station and the Suvarnabhumi Airport (Bangkok International Airport). There’s one of those long names again! Just a half hour walk from the train station I found a wonderful place to stay, The Montien Hotel, which I will feature in the next article. Just a quick safety note…remember while you are walking through Bangkok, that it is important to stay hydrated. Although I found almost no MacDonald’s in Bangkok, there seemed to be a 7-Eleven every half a block! They turned out to be a great place to cool off for a few minutes while I bought another cold bottle of water.

The Hua Lamphong Railway Station, Bangkok

Not-So-Siamese Cats near the Standing Buddha

The Ubiquitous Tuk-Tuk

Walking this huge city is out of the question and you will almost certainly need to use the MRT, taxis or tuk-tuks to help you get from one district to another. This was my first introduction to the ever present tuk-tuk in its many forms found throughout Southeast Asia. The tuk-tuk is best described as a three-wheel rickshaw powered by either a bicycle or a motor scooter. Some seem almost to have been put together by the owner from spare parts, while others are the more substantial factory built models known as an auto-rickshaw. You will not have any trouble finding a tuk-tuk, as they are on almost every street corner and you will hear the familiar toot of the horn as you’re walking, ‘asking’ if you’d like a ride. The drivers are universally friendly and helpful, fares are generally reasonable and it’s a hoot driving through the busy streets in the open air. One word of caution…if the fare seems too good to be true, be prepared to make a detour to a jewelry store or tailor shop where the driver gets a commission, before getting to your destination. Speaking of friendly, the Thai policemen are also happy to assist tourists and I found the small police huts situated throughout the city to be a great place to get directions in a pinch. One evening when I was totally lost and exhausted, an officer actually came out of the hut and walked me to the nearest taxi stop, flagged down a taxi for me and gave the driver instructions to my hotel! All right, I know what you’re thinking, but honest, I hadn’t had a drop to drink!

Watch Out for Wild Tuk-Tuk Drivers in Bangkok!

The Standing Buddha at Wat Intharawihan, Bangkok

The Grand Palace

Perhaps the most famous tourist destination in Bangkok is the Grand Palace, home of the world’s longest reigning monarch, His Majesty the King, Bhumibol Adulyadej. The construction of this 60 acre complex of temples, residences, courts and gardens on the east bank of the Chao Phraya River began in 1782 and while the current monarch resides in Chitralada Palace, the Grand Palace is still used for official functions. Surrounded by defensive walls, the inner courts are opened to the public every day from 0830 to 1530 and the entrance fee is about $13.00. This is a must see for every visitor to Southeast Asia and I think once you have been there you will agree that the palace rivals Versailles and the temples give the Sistine Chapel a good run for its money. Visitors will be dazzled by the ornate buildings, the splendid architecture and the unbelievable sight of more gold than you can imagine. One of the most famous structures within the complex is the Temple of the Emerald Buddha or Wat Phra Kaew, dating back to 1785. Interestingly, the Emerald Buddha is actually made of jade.

Inner Court at the Grand Palace, Bangkok, Thailand

Down by the Chao Phraya River

Many of the most important sites in Bangkok are located near the Chao Phraya River, which is an easy walk from the Grand Palace. Almost adjacent to the Grand Palace is the impressive Reclining Buddha in the Buddhist temple known as Wat Pho, which has been mercifully shortened from Wat Phra Chettuphon Wimon Mangkhlaram Ratchaworamahawihan! Covered in gold leaf and measuring 151 feet long, this Buddha will impress even the most jaded tourist. The entrance fee is just over $3.00. Next, go to the nearby pier and catch a water taxi crossing the Chao Phraya River to visit Wat Arun or the Temple of Dawn. By now you have probably figured out that wat means temple in the Thai language. Wat Arun is probably the most recognizable landmark in Bangkok next to the Grand Palace and for an entrance fee of about $1.50 you can explore the grounds and gardens and climb the steep stairs to the top of the main prang or tower for a spectacular view back across the river to Bangkok. Crossing the river once again and heading up north, you can visit the 100 foot tall Standing Buddha, dating back to 1867. It is located within the temple Wat Intharawihan, affectionately known as Wat In, and admission is free. The Standing Buddha is kept company by an impressive array of cats which seem to have taken up residence on the grounds. Be sure to join us for our next article which will review a wonderful hotel near the center of Bangkok, The Montien Hotel.

The Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho, Bangkok

Bangkok, Thailand Read More »

Georgetown, Malaysia

1 Comment / January 8, 2013

Georgetown, Malaysia…A World Heritage Site

And you thought Georgetown was a chic district in Washington, D.C.! Named after King George III, the Malaysian version was founded as a trading post for the British East India Company in 1786. It is now the capital of the state of Penang in Malaysia and is considered the most livable city in that country. Located on Penang Island just off the northwest coast of peninsular Malaysia, it is easily accessible by ferry and is a worthwhile stop on your journey up the Malay Peninsula from Singapore to Bangkok. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its unique cultural and architectural features, Georgetown offers visitors a kaleidoscope of Islamic, British Colonial and Malay treasures.

Evening Street Scene, Georgetown, Malaysia

St. George's Church, Georgetown, Malaysia — St. George’s Church, Georgetown, Malaysia

Easily Walkable

Anyone in reasonably good physical condition should be able to easily walk to the major sights in Georgetown. I began my walking tour at the Hotel Sentral, a great place to stay which will be featured in our next Awesome Accommodations article. My first stop was the nearby Komtar shopping complex, which also houses the main bus terminal, located at the center of the city. The 65 story Komtar tower is the largest building in Penang and has four floors dedicated to a shopping mall with two department stores and many shops…a great place to look for some unique gifts and souvenirs. Some of the most popular items sought by tourists are Batik, a handcrafted fabric with elegant designs highly prized by fashionistas, ceramic pottery, beaded shoes for women and capal, the traditional Malay sandals for men.

Many Historic Sites

Heading east toward the waterfront you will come to the Ferry Terminal on the coastal road known as Weld Quay where you can catch a boat to Butterworth on the mainland. In this area you will find a conglomeration of architecture, including modern high-rises, Chinese temples and shops and historic European trading houses. The nearby Malayan Railway Building with its clock tower is a classic example of the heritage buildings that dot Georgetown. A little farther along is the Queen Victoria Diamond Jubilee Clock Tower and the remnants of Fort Cornwallis. The fort served as a British military and administrative conclave as far back as the 1700s. Heading west along the waterfront you will come to the Esplanade, a large grassy park often filled with boys flying kites. Looking across the green you will see the City Hall and Town Hall, both historic buildings dating back to the 1800s which help make Georgetown a world heritage site. Interspersed along your walking tour you will see many other historic treasures, including St. George’s Church built in 1818, the old colonial Court House Building, the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion and the Kapitan Kling Mosque. If time permits, you’ll want to visit the Penang Islamic Museum and the Penang Museum and Art Gallery. As you can see, Georgetown on Penang Island off the coast of Malaysia is a cornucopia of culture that you will not want to miss during your visit to this beautiful country.

Queen Victoria Jubilee Clock Tower, Georgetown

Colonial Building in Historic Center, Georgetown

Georgetown, Malaysia Read More »

Hotel Capitol, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

1 Comment / December 16, 2012

A Great Location

Just a short walk from Pudu Sentral, the main bus terminal in Kuala Lumpur, I found a wonderful hotel where an elegant room was waiting just for me without even having a reservation. Hotel Capitol is located on Jalan Bukit Bintang, one of the major roads in KL, lying in the Bukit Bintang district which is known for its restaurants, shopping and entertainment. One could easily walk to most of the major sights in KL from the hotel, including the Petronas Twin Towers, the KL Tower, the National Mosque and the old KL Railway Station, not to mention the many museums, shopping plazas and markets dotting the city. In addition, the hotel is only a 30 minute ride from the ultra modern Kuala Lumpur International Airport on the high speed rail line.

Hotel Capitol Entrance, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Elegant Decor

The large, beautifully appointed room was fresh and clean and had a spectacular view of the city through large floor to ceiling windows. To my surprise, after getting into bed for the night I looked out the window and saw the Petronas Twin Towers all lit up in a sparkling display…a truly stunning sight! The room had one queen bed, a large, modern bathroom, a desk and a mini bar with free coffee and tea service. Wi-Fi access was free and for a small fee, wired high speed internet was available in the room. After a frenetic walking tour of the city, it was nice to return to my quiet, relaxing, comfortable room.

Room at the Hotel Capitol, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Bathroom at the Hotel Capitol, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Reasonably Priced

All of this came for the price of $82, and while this did not include breakfast, there were two dining options available within the facility. Another nice amenity for those traveling by car…parking is free. This excellent value for such an elegant hotel qualifies it for inclusion on our list of Awesome Accommodations on Blue Orb Travel. The Hotel Capitol in Kuala Lumpur met all of the standards I look for in lodging. It was safe, clean and comfortable. The location was ideal and the staff could not have been more welcoming, friendly and helpful. I can highly recommend the Hotel Capitol for your next visit to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia!

Night View of Petronas Twin Towers from Hotel Capitol Room

Day View of Petronas Twin Towers from Hotel Capitol Room

Hotel Capitol, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Read More »

Petronas Twin Towers with Connecting Skybridge, Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

2 Comments / November 29, 2012

A Moderate Islamic Country

Just a pleasant six hour bus ride north of Singapore, Kuala Lumpur is both an interesting and a beautiful city that should be on the itinerary for any visit to Southeast Asia. Perhaps best known for its spectacular Petronas Twin Towers, KL, as it is affectionately known, is also a wonderful example of a welcoming capital city in a moderate Islamic country. After checking into my hotel and purchasing my bus ticket to Georgetown for the next day I took a walking tour of the city with a fellow from Germany who I’d met on the bus. Marten had been to KL before and was a great travel guide.

The KL Tower and Petronas Twin Towers Dominate the Skyline

Bridge over Muddy Water, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

The Petronas Twin Towers

We started out with the number one attraction, the Petronas Twin Towers, which were completed in 1998. At a height of 1,483 feet and 88 floors, the towers were the tallest buildings in the world from 1998 to 2004 when they were surpassed by Taipei 101 in Taiwan. The towers are connected by a skybridge at the 41^st and 42^nd floors which is not actually fastened to the main tower structures. Instead, it is designed to slide in and out of the towers when they sway during high winds to prevent the bridge from breaking. It is truly a dazzling spectacle when all the lights are shining from the towers at night!

John in the Lobby of the Petronas Twin Towers, Kuala Lumpur

The National Mosque

The city was founded in 1857 where the muddy waters of the Klang and Gombak Rivers come together, and in Malay the term Kuala Lumpur means ‘muddy confluence’. We walked past the KL Tower, another landmark pinnacle in the city, and across the river to visit the National Mosque. This modern structure built in 1965 features a 239 feet high minaret and an umbrella shaped roof and it can accommodate 15,000 people! Visitors can enjoy the reflecting pools and fountains outside the Mosque and are welcome to visit the interior after donning the appropriate apparel.

Minaret and Reflecting Pools at National Mosque, Kuala Lumpur

The Old KL Railway Station

Only a short walk from the mosque is the old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station, completed in 1911 and now replaced by the newer KL Sentral Station nearby. Commuter trains still stop at the old station, but the last real train rolled through in 2001. The distinctive Mughal architecture (the Mughal style of India) is definitely worth a peek. Several museums, such as the National Museum and the Islamic Arts Museum, are located nearby rounding out the important tourist attractions in this section of the city.

Old KL Railway Station Displaying Mughal Architecture

The Markets of Kuala Lumpur

Among the most fun and interesting aspects of Kuala Lumpur are the markets, the most notable of which is the Central Market. This two story and thankfully now air conditioned structure was built in 1936 and has become a cultural center featuring many artists and craftsmen. There are many other street markets and night markets throughout the city, which I found to be a lot more interesting than the modern malls. Be sure to return for my next posting where I’ll provide a full report and review of an Awesome Accommodation in Kuala Lumpur, the Hotel Capitol.

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Read More »