Mongolia

July 17, 2015

Mongolia, Rugged and Independent

Sandwiched between Russia and China, now fiercely independent Mongolia is a country on the verge of becoming an economic power and a force to be reckoned with. Its remote location makes it a little difficult to get to, but for travelers on the Trans-Siberian Railway it is a refreshing stop on the nearly 6,000 mile journey from Moscow to Beijing. The moment I boarded the train in Ulan-Ude, Russia heading for Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia, I began to sense the genuine friendliness and innate hardiness of the Mongolian people. I had the opportunity to meet a number of them who were returning home from business trips or vacations and it was a great introduction to this wonderful country.

Ulaanbaatar, City of Contrasts

On arrival in Ulaanbaatar I was able to easily walk across the city from the train station with my backpack to the centrally located UB Guesthouse, one of the best hostels I have ever stayed in (see below). First time visitors to Ulaanbaatar are immediately struck by the architectural contrast of ultra-modern buildings intermixed with yurts, temples and gray, cement monstrosities left over from Mongolia’s nearly 70 years as a satellite state of the Soviet Union, an unhappy period which ended in 1992. In the pleasant June weather I visited many of the major sights on foot and was surprised to see so many nice shops and restaurants along the way. Some of the ‘must see’ attractions include Sukhe Bator (the main square), the National Museum of Mongolian History, the Parliament Building with its free museum, the Choijin Lama Temple and the fabulous temple complex at Gandan Khiid.

The UB Guesthouse

The UB Guesthouse came highly recommended by other travelers I met along the way and also in the guidebooks that I brought on the trip. It is ideally located in the center of the city near the main square and was a fairly easy walk from the train station. It is one of the larger city hostels I have stayed in and had numerous rooms, some private and some dormitory style. The common areas were a great place to chat with other travelers and the clean, well-equipped kitchen was well stocked with free breakfast food. The staff could not have been more friendly and helpful. They assisted me in getting one of the limited train tickets to Beijing and planned a three day excursion to the Gobi Desert and national parks. I paid $8 per night for a comfortable dorm bed. The UB Guesthouse was clean and safe and run by a friendly, helpful staff. All this, along with the great location and reasonable fees, make it one of the best sleeps on our list of Awesome Accommodations.

A Whirlwind Tour of UlaanBaatar, Mongolia

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Olkhon Island, Lake Baikal, Siberia, Russia

Send Me to Siberia, Please!

June 10, 2015

Irkutsk on the Trans-Siberian Railway

One of my favorite cities along the Trans-Siberian Railway journey is Irkutsk near Lake Baikal, deep in the heart of Siberia. It is an easy walk or trolley ride from the Irkutsk Railway Station across the Ankara River into the city center, where I stayed at the popular Baikaler Hostel. The friendly, helpful hostel staff arranged a two night excursion to Olkhon Island on Lake Baikal where I stayed at Nikita’s Homestead, a rustic lodge with all the conveniences of home. The round trip bus ride to the village of Khuzhir and two nights at Nikita’s, including meals, cost just a little over $50. Now that’s what I call a bargain!

Irkutsk Waterfront — Waterfront Scene in Irkutsk, Siberia

Lake Baikal

Lake Baikal, which means ‘nature lake’, is the deepest and the largest fresh water lake (by volume) in the world, containing 20% of the world’s fresh water. It was formed by a rift which is still growing and its clear water and surrounding mountains make it a spectacularly beautiful place to visit. Olkhon Island is easily accessible by bus and ferry and the three day diversion from the Trans-Siberian Railway journey is an experience not to be missed.

Olkhon Island Excursion — Leaving Nikita’s Homestead for a Tour of Olkhon Island

Nikita’s Homestead

The laid back, friendly atmosphere at Nikita’s Homestead makes it the ideal place to meet adventurous travelers from all over the world. The family style dining room serves up some delicious Russian meals and doubles as a gathering place for evening entertainment. Each afternoon we walked down to the little store in town to buy some beer and after dinner all the guests gathered together outside to watch the sunset over the lake. The staff at Nikita’s can arrange tours of the island and I had the good fortune to join two young ladies from Austria for a fun day, traveling to the top of the island and back. By the end of each day I was ready to hit the sack in my comfortable little cabin. Nikita’s Homestead is definitely one of my favorite sleeps and it has earned its spot as an Awesome Accommodation on Blue Orb Travel.

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First Day in Russia

February 22, 2015

From Helsinki to St. Petersburg

Many Westerners will enter Russia for the first time on the Allegro Train arriving in St. Petersburg from Helsinki, Finland. This is also a common land excursion for Baltic Sea cruise ship passengers for whom the Russian visa process is expedited. For independent travelers like myself, you must obtain a regular Russian visa before entering the country. I got my three year visa through a private visa agency, Visa HQ, which made the otherwise complicated procedure easy.

The Allegro Train

The three and a half hour ride on this modern, comfortable train goes through some beautiful countryside and you will get to mingle with some real Russian people for the first time. Border formalities, such as customs, passport and visa checks are conducted by border agents onboard the train so that you’re ready to hit the deck running as soon as you arrive in St. Petersburg. Rather than the stereotyped intimidating officers of yore, the border agents on the train were polite, respectful and friendly, giving me a good impression of the Russian people right from my very first day in this beautiful country.

Friendly Folks

As much as I enjoy an adventure, I must say, it was with some trepidation that I made my foray into the Russian Federation for the first time. After all the years of the Cold War standoff between East and West, I wasn’t sure just how an American would be received there and I really wasn’t looking forward to the grey concrete ambiance that Russia was supposedly known for. Boy, was I in for a pleasant surprise! The Russian people were friendly and nice right from the get-go and the surroundings that I found myself in on that beautiful spring day were anything but grey. The kaleidoscope of colors that awaits those fortunate enough to visit St. Petersburg is almost sensory overload.

The Language Barrier

Before leaving home I had made reservations for three nights at the Comfitel Alexandria Hotel in the heart of the city. I set out to find it as soon as I stepped off the train, anxious to unload my heavy backpack. With map in hand I embarked on what would turn out to be an exhausting four hour search that would take me in circles before finding the tiny sign for this otherwise great little hotel. This episode was my first introduction to one of the main challenges of traveling in Russia…the language barrier. I found that very few Russians speak or understand English, even in a big metropolitan city like St. Petersburg. That’s not to say they didn’t try. I stopped to ask directions numerous times and each person knocked themselves out trying to help with sign language. I finally ran into some students who spoke English and knew right where the hotel was located.

The Comfitel Alexandria Hotel

I had a nice room with ensuite bathroom for $85 per night at the Comfitel Alexandria Hotel, which included a great breakfast. The staff were very friendly and helpful and took care of the required country registration for an additional $8. In spite of the difficulty finding it, I would definitely recommend this hotel because of its great, central location, just a short walk from The Hermiage. In addition, it was clean, safe and comfortable, rounding out all of my requirements for an awesome accommodation. And right across the street is a wonderful little café, Café Boge, where I cooled off with a beer and enjoyed mingling with the locals.

Comfitel Alexandria Hotel, St. Petersburg, Russia

Both a Beautiful and a Walkable City

For the next three days I would walk from one end of St. Petersburg to the other, taking in all the sights and sounds and meeting the friendly people who live there. Although it is known for having one of the world’s greatest museums, The Hermitage, there are many other important points of interest. For any traveler who is reasonable fit, the main sights of St. Petersburg can be seen on foot. If you need a break, you can step into one of the many beautiful cathedrals for a respite along the way or sit on a bench in one of the numerous parks to catch your breath. If you visit in Spring, you will have the extra treat of seeing the lilacs out in full bloom and Russia has the most beautiful lilacs I have ever seen throughout the world.

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Helsinki, Finland

December 17, 2014

Gateway to Scandinavia, the Baltics and Russia

Whether you plan on heading north to explore Scandinavia, south to visit the Baltic States or southeast to visit Russia, Helsinki is a great starting point for your trip. The Helsinki Airport makes it a major transportation hub for the region and with convenient bus service from the airport to the Helsinki city center just 9 miles away (30 minutes, 4.5 Euros), visitors should definitely set aside a few days to explore this beautiful city. From the modern bus terminal at the Kamppi Center in the city, you can choose from an array of side trips outside Helsinki, such as the day trip I took to the medieval town of Porvoo 30 miles east. If you’re heading on to St. Petersburg, Russia I recommend the comfortable, albeit expensive Allegro Train for the three and a half hour ride. Customs and other border formalities, such as passport and visa checks are conveniently carried out on board the Allegro Train by friendly, efficient customs officers. Helsinki is also a major stop for cruise ships plying the waters of the Baltic Sea, many of which can be seen moored in the harbor.

The Esplandi or Esplanade in the Helsinki City Center

What to See and Do in Helsinki

Much more than just a gateway city, Helsinki, Finland is a popular destination in itself. Despite being the capital and largest city in Finland, Helsinki is very walkable for reasonably fit travelers, especially if you divide your forays into different regions, explored over several days. Some of the main sights include the Finnish National Opera, the Sibelius Monument, the Parliament House, and the Olympic Stadium, site of the 1952 Summer Olympics. You will not want to miss the unique and spectacular Temppeliaukio Church or Church of the Rock in the same region. The city has many other churches worth visiting, including St. John’s Church, Mikael Agricola Church, Helsinki Cathedral and Uspenski Cathedral. During your walking tour of Helsinki be sure to stop and enjoy the many architecturally interesting homes and buildings along the way. One of my favorites is the glass Palm House arboretum built in 1889 in the University of Helsinki Botanical Gardens. Finally, be sure to set aside several hours to take the ferry (5 Euros round trip) to Suomenlinna Sveaborg, a park-like fortress covering six islands off the coast, which is also designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Temppeliaukio Church or Church of the Rock, Helsinki, Finland

The Rivoli Jardin Hotel, A Great Place to Stay

Located just a short walk from the Central Railway Station where the airport bus lets you off, the Rivoli Jardin Hotel was the ideal place to stay for my three day sojourn in Helsinki. The full buffet breakfast was one of the finest spreads I have ever had the pleasure of enjoying in my travels. Since Helsinki is known as one of the most expensive cities in the world, I was not surprised that my hotel costs came in over my usual budget. My average nightly charge was $137.00. For that I got a clean, comfortable, safe room, a great location and a friendly, helpful front desk staff. The Rivoli Jardin is located just a few blocks from the Helsinki Esplanade and the center of town and has a convenient market almost right across the street. The Rivoli Jardin Hotel met all my criteria for an Awesome Accommodation and I can highly recommend it for your next visit to Helsiki, Finland.

The Rivoli Jardin Hotel, Helsinki, Finland

The Buffet Breakfast at the Rivoli Jardin Hotel in Helsinki, Finland

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The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, St. Petersburg, Russia

A Western Russia Itinerary

3 Comments / October 14, 2014

Timing is Everything

Just a few months before the Russian invasion of Ukraine, I took a three week, independent rail and bus journey through Western Russia and Ukraine. This fabulous trip began and ended respectively in the gateway cities of Helsinki, Finland and Kiev, Ukraine. In between, I visited the Russian cities of St. Petersburg, Moscow, Saratov, Volgograd, Astrakhan on the Caspian Sea and Rostov on Don before heading west into Ukraine to visit the cities of Yalta and Odessa on the Black Sea and Kiev on the Dnieper River.

Three Countries, Three Seas, Three Rivers

I learned that train travel in Russia, while safe and reliable, could be painfully slow. At times I literally wanted to get out and push the train to make it go faster when there was no apparent reason for it to be going so slowly. Fourteen hour bus trips were the norm. But these protracted sojourns gave me a wonderful opportunity to meet and get to know the friendly folks in Finland, Russia and Ukraine. Even with this fast paced trip covering a huge territory, there was still plenty of time to explore the Baltic Sea, the Caspian Sea and the Black Sea. And I was able to check off one of my bucket list items by dipping my toes in the Volga, the Don and the Dnieper Rivers along the way.

City by City Itinerary

1) Helsinki, Finland (3 nights)

-arrived by plane from SFO

2) St. Petersburg, Russia (3 nights)

-arrived by train, 5 hours

3) Moscow, Russia (3 nights)

-arrived by train, 4 hours, 45 minutes

4) Saratov, Russia (1 night)

-arrived by overnight train, 15 hours, 30 minutes

5) Volgograd, Russia (1 night)

-arrived by train, 6 hours, 30 minutes

6) Astrakhan, Russia (1 night)

-arrived by train, 8 hours, 30 minutes

7) Volgograd, Russia (returned for train connection to Rostov on Don)

-arrived by overnight train, 10 hours

8) Rostov on Don, Russia (1 night)

-arrived by bus, 8 hours

9) Yalta, Ukraine (1 night)

-arrived by overnight bus via Simferopol, 14 hours, 20 minutes

10) Odessa, Ukraine (transfer to train)

-arrived by overnight bus, 14 hours

11) Kiev, Ukraine (2 nights)

-arrived by train, 8 hours, 30 minutes

Yalta on the Crimean Coast of the Black Sea in Ukraine

A Whirlwind Trip!

As you can see, this was not a trip for the faint at heart. It required sticking to a rigorous schedule, with many long hours on trains and buses, but it enabled me to see some fabulous places that tourists may not have an opportunity to see again for quite some time. Within months of returning from my trek through this area, Russia invaded the Crimean region of Ukraine, which it has occupied since. Russian troops are still marshaled on the border in the Rostov region of Russia. Within the same period of time, the train station in Volgograd, where I made several connections, was bombed by terrorists. Yet, I would not have wanted to miss this chance to explore Russia and the Ukraine and to meet the wonderful people who reside in these two counties. To a person, they were friendly, welcoming and interested in the American visitor traveling solo through their homeland. Stay tuned for lots more information about traveling through Russia in future articles on your favorite travel blog, Blue Orb Travel.

Perchersk Lavra Monastery on the Dnieper River in Kiev, Ukraine

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Friendly Staff at the Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel

Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel, Cambodia

1 Comment / July 18, 2014

Cambodian Oasis

As if the beautiful city of Siem Reap and the fabulous temples of nearby Angkor Wat weren’t enough, the oasis-like atmosphere of the Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel was the perfect refuge after a long day. Located within walking distance of all the downtown action, this three star hotel is highly rated by other travel websites and for a good reason. I stayed for two nights in a spacious, elegant room with a balcony and en suite bathroom for just $50 per night…and that included a wonderful buffet breakfast!

Tranquil Gardens

It was delightful just to walk around the beautifully maintained grounds of the hotel, enjoying the crystal clear pool, the lush gardens and the fish laden koi ponds situated around this tranquil refuge. True to its name, the hotel carried the tropical green theme throughout both the interior and exterior of the facility, from the brightly uniformed, friendly staff to the accents on the comfortable beds. At the entrance of the hotel is a wooden bridge that crosses over a koi pond, welcoming guests into the magnificently marbled, and cool, lobby.

My Room at the Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel

Bathroom at the Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel

Great Hotel, Great Value

The Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel was a super value and truly one of the best sleeps of my trip through Southeast Asia. It ticked all the boxes when it comes to what I look for in an awesome accommodation. The location could not have been better, the well-informed staff members could not have been more helpful and the amenities could not have been more plentiful. The entire facility was spotlessly clean and guests can rest easily knowing that they are in a safe, secure place. To top it all off, the buffet breakfast was delicious. When you visit Siem Reap, Cambodia and the temples at Angkor Wat you will definitely want to stay at the Seam Reap Evergreen Hotel.

Sparkling Pool at the Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel

Koi Pond at the Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel

Buffet Breakfast at the Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel

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