Cork, Ireland

May 15, 2012

History, Culture and Architectural Splendor

The city of Cork in southern Ireland is a major seaport and the third most populous city in Ireland. The name ‘Cork’ comes from the Irish word meaning marsh and the city center is actually located on an island where the River Lee divides into two channels before converging again to flow to the sea. From the time it was founded by Saint Finbarr in the 6^th century, Cork has been at the center of Irish history in one fashion or another. It served as a Viking trading post beginning around 920 AD, had its population decimated by the Black Death plague in 1349, played a role in the English War of the Roses in 1491 and was a major player in the War of Independence in the early 20^th century. Recent history is reflected in the beautiful churches and cathedrals that grace the city, including the famous neo-Gothic Saint Fin Barre’s (Protestant) and St. Mary’s (Catholic) Cathedrals. Christ Church in the Old Town and St. Anne’s Church, which houses the Bells of Shandon in its clock tower, round out the architectural splendor on display at the houses of worship in Cork.

The Bells of Shandon Across the River Lee, Cork, Ireland

Elizabeth Fort was built as a fortification outside the city walls in 1601. While parts of the fort are now used as a police station, other areas are accessible to tourists, as are some of the original town walls. Culture abounds in Cork, as attested by the Crawford Art Gallery, the ultra modern Cork Opera House and the beautiful University College Cork, built in 1845, which straddles the south channel of the River Lee. While all of these sites are easily accessible on foot, St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral and the University College Cork located near one another on the south side of the city are particularly worth the time and effort to see.

Kissing the Blarney Stone

No trip to Ireland would be complete without kissing the Blarney Stone. Located high up in the tower of the 600 year old Blarney Castle just outside of Cork, the Blarney Stone can only be kissed while lying on your back and being suspended partially upside down…and trusting the guide to hold you! It really isn’t as scary as it sounds and once done, the gift of Irish gab is supposedly conferred upon the ‘kisser’. The short bus ride from the Cork city center to the castle cost about $9 for the round trip and the entrance fee to the castle grounds was about $15.

The Blarney Castle and Gardens are actually a large, active estate located on the River Martin and the Blarney River. Visitors can also tour the elegant Blarney House built in 1874 where the current baronet and his family actually live. Put on your hiking shoes as you take a self guided tour of the gardens, the castle with its dungeons and caves and the rock close with its waterfalls, Druid’s Cave and Witch’s Stone. One could spend hours wandering the grounds and exploring the many points of interest to be found in this magical place. Trust me! You won’t want to miss it. Just before I left I’m almost certain I saw several Leprechauns, but then maybe I’m just full of Blarney.

Kissing the Blarney Stone Atop Blarney Castle, Ireland

The Friendly Corkonians

The hour and a half bus ride from Killarney to Cork cost about $24 and took us through some beautiful sights and scenery, including the market town of Macroom. Corkonians are a very friendly lot and I enjoyed chatting with a number of them during my wanderings about the city. It’s interesting to note that they are sometimes referred to as ‘The Rebels’ for their early disavowal of British domination during the long struggle for Irish independence. I was very fortunate to find a wonderful place to stay while I was in Cork and encourage you to return for my full report on Creedon’s Bed and Breakfast. It goes without saying that with its many cultural and architectural treasures in addition to the nearby Blarney Castle, Cork is an essential stop on any trek through Ireland.

Saint Fin Barre's Cathedral, Cork, Ireland — Saint Fin Barre’s Cathedral, Cork, Ireland

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St. John's Catholic Church from the Town Park Rose Gardens

Tralee, Ireland and the Dingle Peninsula

April 19, 2012

The Rose of Tralee

Written in the nineteenth century, ‘The Rose of Tralee’ is a famous Irish ballad about a woman who was ‘lovely and fair’, a description that has come to embody the features of all the beautiful young colleens in Ireland. Every year young ladies from Irish communities throughout the world compete for the distinction of being selected ‘The Rose’, culminating in the crowning of the winner at the Rose of Tralee Festival held here in August. Because of its familiar name, Tralee was one of the places I was anxious to visit on my trek through Ireland. For a $25 ticket I took the two hour ride from Limerick on my favorite Bus Eireann, arriving in Tralee around noon on a Saturday in early June. But once again, the town would have to wait, so that I could catch the bus out to see the Dingle Peninsula first.

The Dingle Peninsula and Dingle Town

As a popular tourist destination the Dingle Peninsula is catching up with the Iveragh Peninsula, its next door neighbor to the south, which boasts the famous Ring of Kerry. Also located in County Kerry, the Dingle Peninsula is named for Dingle Town which is a picturesque little village on the Dingle River where it flows into a sheltered harbor on the Atlantic Coast. While Dingle Town has a long history as a fishing port and still has traces of the town walls that once surrounded it, today’s visitors will be particularly impressed with the narrow, hilly streets lined with brightly painted shops, pubs and houses. A short walk up the hill behind the town will reward you with a great view of the surrounding countryside and the harbor below which is teeming with fishing boats. You can take a boat ride out to the mouth of the Dingle Harbor where Fungie the world famous bottlenose dolphin has greeted visitors since 1984 and perhaps even take a swim with him. If time permits you can also take the scenic drive out towards Dunmore Head, the western most point in Ireland. The round trip bus fare from Tralee to Dingle Town cost about $22 and took an hour each way. But you’ll be wishing it took longer so you’d have more time to enjoy the breathtaking scenery along the way.

Colorful Streets of Dingle Town, Ireland

Tralee

The weather was somewhat dreary when I got back to Tralee in the early evening to set out on my walking tour of this pretty little town. In addition to being a great jumping off place for the Dingle Peninsula (and the Ring of Kerry, as well), Tralee was full of friendly people and interesting things to see. It was quite pleasant to walk along the wide streets lined with Georgian edifices and to go window shopping on The Mall and to stroll through the Town Square filled with the Irish music flowing from the nearby pubs. Along the way I visited St. John’s Catholic Church and the Pikeman Memorial which commemorates the 1798 Irish Rebellion. Rounding out the evening I took the long walk along the ship canal to check out the locks and to see the Blennerville Windmill, the oldest one in Ireland still in operation. One of the most beautiful spots in Tralee is the town park which is filled with the town’s namesake roses and many other colorful flowers. Right across from the town park is the Kerry County Museum which has the Tralee Tourist Office in the basement. I knew that timing would be critical on the next day of my trip so the helpful staff there booked my accommodations in Killarney and got me a seat on the Ring of Kerry tour bus a day in advance.

The Canal Walk and the Blennerville Windmill

Finnegan’s Hostel

After checking several hotels on my short walk from the bus station into town (and finding them either full or too expensive!) I happened upon Finnegan’s Hostel right in the heart of Tralee. With a name like Finnegan’s it couldn’t get much more Irish and this was without a doubt the best bargain on my trip to Ireland! For $35 I got a great room with private bath and breakfast included! While it is more like a budget bed and breakfast it does have dormitory rooms in addition to twin and double rooms. There are 40 beds in all and each room has an en suite bathroom. Located right across from the rose gardens in the town park this Georgian town house was completed in 1826 and each room is named after a famous Irish author. Finnegan’s Hostel was clean, safe, comfortable, a good value and conveniently located…all criteria that must be met to make it onto our list of Awesome Accommodations. The friendly staff provided a lot of good information about what to see in Tralee and how to get out to Dingle Town. The facility also features bike rental, laundry service and an elegant restaurant in the cellar. This would be a great place for group accommodations, but regardless of your travel needs, this is where you will want to stay during your visit to Tralee.

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York, England

1 Comment / November 23, 2011

A Train Ride Through the Pennines to York, England

My three day sojourn through Wales had come to an end, so on the morning of May 26, I boarded the train at the tiny Conwy station platform bound for York in Northern England. The ticket cost $57 and the five hour ride took us through some interesting cities like Chester, Manchester and Leeds. We then continued on through the beautiful countryside of the Pennines, a low mountain range running north-south, sometimes described as the backbone of England. Known for its outdoor activities, wild life and national parks, this sparsely populated area of England is definitely worth a separate visit, especially since it is traversed in the north by Hadrian’s Wall.

Dogs, Dukes and Pudding

I had never ventured into the Yorkshire counties (there are several) on my previous visits to England, probably because they are somewhat distant from the more ‘touristy’ areas near London. The city of York is actually located in Northern Yorkshire County, which is the largest county in the UK. Before my visit to York, I thought I knew the main things for which the city was known. I knew that Yorkies or Yorkshire Terriers are popular dogs throughout the world, that Yorkshire pudding was made from a baked batter which is usually served with roast beef and gravy, and, of course I knew of the inimitable Sarah Ferguson, the Duchess of York and Prince Andrew, the Duke of York. I was soon to find out that York has much more to offer than dogs, Dukes and pudding.

Two Thousand Years of History

Although there is archeological evidence of early settlers in the area dating back as far as 7000 BC, York was actually founded by the Romans in 71 AD. With nearly two thousand years of recorded history behind its belt, there are reminders of its glorious past almost everywhere the curious tourist cares to explore. Raided by Vikings, captured by William the Conqueror, and burdened by the dubious distinction as the birthplace of Guy Fawkes, York is a treasure trove for the history buff. Surrounded by medieval walls, York is located at the confluence of the River Ouse and the River Foss. It is just a short walk from the train station to the old town walls, beyond which lies a real treat for even the most sophisticated traveler.

Clifford's Tower, York, England — Clifford’s Tower, York Castle, England

The Blossoms York Guest House

Just outside the town walls there are a number of Bed and Breakfast establishments located along Bootham and Clifton Streets, as well as along several other nearby avenues. I found a nice room with private bath including breakfast for $70.00 at the Blossoms York Guest House on Clifton Street, which was about a five minute walk from town. The place was filled with well-behaved children visiting York on a school outing and I enjoyed meeting some of the teachers and chaperones with the group. Internet service was available and free and it was great to be able to connect with home.

Around the Town

Setting out to explore the city by 4 PM, I soon found myself on a circuitous trek around the town at the top of the old medieval walls, descending from this lofty vantage point at intervals along the way to mingle with the crowds and explore the many sights below. Without question, the most prominent landmark in York is York Minster. Completed in 1472, it is one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in Northern Europe. The gorgeous stained glass windows should not be missed and visitors will want to make every effort to get inside to take in the beauty of these remarkable works of art. Nearby is the Treasurer’s House, also dating back to medieval times, with its classic architecture and beautifully manicured gardens.

World Class Museums

There are several world class museums in York, including the Jorvik Viking Centre and the York Castle Museum. Climbing enthusiasts can ascend the steep stairway to the top of Clifford’s Tower, the last remaining vestige of York Castle, for another view of the city below. Visitors will also want to see the Fairfax House dating to the early 1700s and the Roman Baths, recently uncovered beneath a pub. Fans of Harry Potter will enjoy seeing The Shambles, a network of old streets dating back to the 14^th century with overhanging wood frame buildings. Astute observers will recognize it as Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter films. Just outside the walls along the River Ouse are the beautiful Museum Gardens with its Norman Abbey ruins. While all of this was easily seen in a few hours on foot, as usual, I left plenty of reasons to return to York someday. The National Railway Museum near the train station will be at the top of that list.

The Shambles, York, England…Keep an Eye Out for Harry Potter!

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Llys Llewelyn Guest House Next to the Old Town Walls

The Llys Llewelyn Guest House, Conwy, Wales

5 Comments / October 25, 2011

The Llys Llewelyn Guest House…An Awesome Accommodation

As the gateway to Snowdonia National Park, Conwy, Wales is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the British Isles. At certain times of the year finding accommodations there can be difficult without planning ahead and that is exactly the situation I found myself in when I stepped off the train early in the afternoon on a Wednesday in late May. After checking several ‘bed and breakfasts’ near the center of this historic, medieval town and finding them fully booked, someone suggested that I try the Llys Llewelyn Guest House just a few blocks up the hill in an area of Conwy appropriately called Mount Pleasant. It was located right next to the old town walls and afforded a spectacular view of the town, river and castle below.

One of My Favorite Sleeps!

From the moment I spotted the impressive edifice and walked up the front courtyard, I could see why this place was listed as a historic building. Roger Hughes was covering for his father that day and invited me in when I rang the bell. He had a room with private bath available for $48 including a traditional English breakfast. I was soon checking in to a large room that included two beds, a television, and a table with a fully stocked coffee and tea tray. The room was clean, cheery and welcoming and was appointed in what I would call ‘old fashioned’ décor. After unpacking and getting myself organized I was soon out the door and on my way to explore Conwy. I had only to step across the street to find an ancient stone stairway leading to the top of the old town walls where I began my walking tour of this quaint Welsh village.

Like Being in an Old British Movie

After a wonderful day of exploring Conwy and environs, which I described in my previous posting, I returned to the Llys Llewelyn Guest House around 9 PM exhausted and ready to sit down with a cup of tea. Even at this hour it was still light out way up there in the northern latitudes. I plopped myself down in the overstuffed chair by the window looking out at the estuary and the town below and watched the darkness settle in. As the lights in town came on one by one and the castle gradually faded into a mere silhouette in the shadows below I began to feel like I was in an old British movie. I could almost see Robert Donat and Madeleine Carroll coming up the walk (The 39 Steps) and half expected Dame May Whitty to knock on my door (The Lady Vanishes). OK, maybe I’m getting a little carried away, but you had to be there. It really was an entrancing feeling to be a part of this wonderful setting so far from home.

Dining Room at the Llys Llewelyn Guest House

Up Early for Breakfast

Alas, the knock never came on my door and after a good night’s sleep I was up early the next morning to catch the train to York, England. After packing, I went down to a charming dining room to find the owner, Alan Hughes, waiting to take my order. He prepared a delicious breakfast and then asked if I would mind if he pulled up a chair so we could chat. I was glad to have the company and enjoyed hearing him talk about the history of the area and how he came to be the proprietor of the guest house after retiring as a Welsh Olympic ski coach. He explained how he enjoyed meeting his guests who came from all over the world and that having an opportunity to get to know them was reward enough for his efforts as a good host. After breakfast we took a quick tour of the rest of the facility which has a number of large well-furnished bedrooms available, including family, twin and double, most with en-suite facilities. If you’re lucky enough to find yourself in Conwy, Wales I recommend Room #1 at the Llys Llewelyn Guest House, so you can sit in that chair by the window at the end of a busy day of sightseeing and watch the sun go down!

Alan Hughes, Proprietor, in the TV Lounge of the Guest House

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Town Walls