Beautiful Sights

Exploring the Southwest Coast of Ireland

In and Around Cork

As the second largest city in the Republic of Ireland, Cork is an incredible gateway to some truly amazing sights on the southwest coast of the Emerald Isle.  If you choose to head here, whether from inland or abroad, take a look at the Travelodge Hotel near Cork Airport, an ideal spot to serve as your home base.  With so much to explore, there’s no need to spend unnecessary money on accommodations – not when you can get a comfortable, affordable hotel with such ease.  From here, why not hire a car so you can explore the surrounding area under your own steam?  It’ll give you all the freedom you need to take things at your own pace.  Just grab your GPS and head for the coast, taking in the beautiful sights and various attractions along the way.

Blarney Castle

Built in the 15th century, with earlier strongholds on the site dating back much further, Blarney Castle is home to the Stone of Eloquence, otherwise known as the Blarney Stone.  Legend has it that if you kiss the stone, you will be given the gift of the gab.  Nowadays, you have to hang upside down over a sheer drop to give it a peck, but it’s still do-able for the brave!

Fota Island

This small island off the coast of Cork is home to Fota Wildlife Park, Ireland’s only wildlife park, which aims to preserve global wildlife in its natural surroundings.  Animals include ostrich, kangaroo, giraffe and antelope – all of which are allowed to roam free without fear of predators, such as the cheetah.

Carbery’s Hundred Isles

Be sure to take a trip to these beautiful isles, situated off the coast of Cork in and around Long Island Bay and Roaringwater Bay. Many of these islands still have rustic villages on them.  Cape Clear Island (Cleire) is a popular berth for yachts and Sherkin Island, approximately 15 minutes via ferry away from the mainland, is a popular tourist destination, particularly with families during the summer holidays.

Rolling Hills and Coastal Cliffs

As you can see, there are plenty of places to explore on the southwest coast of Ireland.  With rolling hills and coastal cliffs right at your doorstep, Cork is much more than its namesake city.  Head further into the country and you can enjoy a whole host of attractions.

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The Ring of Kerry, Ireland

Killarney and the Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry

A tour of the Ring of Kerry, located on the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry, has become an almost mandatory pilgrimage for every visitor to Ireland.  A bus tour is a great way to see the many beautiful sights on this heavily trafficked trail and usually takes about six hours to complete.  Because of the difficulty buses have passing one another on some of the narrow roads, they all travel in a counterclockwise direction along the coast.  I had a great experience with O’Connor Auto Tours which provided an entertaining (and very skilled) bus driver who regaled us with his gift of Irish gab and gave us plenty of time at each stop.  The tour cost about $32, not including lunch, and I’m quite sure you’ll be glad you left the driving to them rather than trying to navigate the narrow, winding roads in a rental car.

The Ring of Kerry, Ireland
The Ring of Kerry, Ireland

There was an additional fee for several special points of interest along the way, one of the most interesting of which was the sheepdog herding demonstration.  The tour took us through Killorglin, Caherciveen, Waterville, Sneem, Molls Gap and Ladies’ View in addition to a visit to the Kerry Bog Village Museum in Glenbeigh before returning to Killarney.  One of the most enjoyable things about traveling is the people you meet along the way, like the nice folks who were on the tour bus with me.  So, here’s a ‘hello’ to Luca and Elena from Italy, Brian from Philadelphia and the two lovely young ladies from Victoria, British Columbia.

The Kerry Bog Village Museum, Ireland
The Kerry Bog Village Museum, Ireland

Killarney 

Located in southwestern Ireland, Killarney has an ancient history and the castles, abbeys and cathedrals to prove it.  With its trout filled lakes, mountain crags and oak studded woodlands, it has become one of the most popular tourist destinations in all of Ireland.  Killarney is not just a great jumping off place for the Ring of Kerry, but a worthy destination in its own right!  After returning from the Ring of Kerry tour I walked around the old town with its colorful shops, pubs and restaurants, visited the famous St. Mary’s Cathedral and enjoyed seeing some of the beautifully manicured gardens that surround many of the lovely homes that line the streets.

Killarney National Park, Ireland
Killarney National Park, Ireland

I always like to immerse myself in local events when I travel and it just happened that there was an international gathering of bikers taking place at the Gleneagle Hotel while I was in Killarney.  I had fun mingling with the crowds, enjoying the free entertainment and drooling over the beautiful Harley-Davidson motorcycles that had come from all over the world.  My walk skirted the Killarney National Park where I got a glimpse of Muckross Abbey, but unfortunately I missed some of the most well known sites in Killarney, including Ross Castle, Muckross House and the nearby Torc Waterfall, which will have to wait until my next trip to Ireland.  There just was not enough time to see everything, giving me a good excuse to return to Killarney some day.

Bikers in Killarney, Ireland
Bikers in Killarney, Ireland

Trek through Ireland Drawing to a Close

With my trek through Ireland winding down to the last few days before I would have to fly home, I couldn’t imagine that there would still be so much more waiting for me to see!  It seemed that each place I visited outdid the ones that came before and the town of Killarney and the nearby Ring of Kerry were no exception!  Fortunately, I’d made reservations before I left Tralee for a room at a bed and breakfast as well as a seat on the tour bus to the Ring of Kerry.  The 40 minute bus ride from Tralee to Killarney cost about $12 and the driver was kind enough to make a special stop near Leen’s Bed and Breakfast where I was given a warm welcome.  I was able to check into my room early so that I could leave my pack and be ready for the tour bus that picked me up out front at 10 AM.  Be sure to return for our full report on Leen’s Bed and Breakfast in Killarney, Ireland…a wonderful place to stay!

The Ring of Kerry, Ireland
The Ring of Kerry, Ireland

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How to Take a Train Trip Around Europe Without Spending a Lot

An Inexpensive Train Trip Around Europe

          Just to show that you, too, can vacation in Europe, taking in some of the most beautiful sights in the world, without spending a lot, I have summarized my itinerary and totaled the expenses for my recent train odyssey around Europe.  The details of this fantastic trip have been described in detail in the most recent postings on this website.  Looking back, it was one of the best trips I’ve ever taken.  I hope this will encourage you to take the plunge and get out there and see this interesting part of the world.

Monterosso, Italy on the Cinque Terre
Monterosso, Italy on the Cinque Terre

Itinerary

Day 1;    Fly from San Francisco, California to Frankfurt, Germany

Day 2:    Arrive Frankfurt; take train to Mannheim, Germany

Day 3:    Paris, France

Day 4:    Bordeaux, France

Day 5:    San Sabastian, Spain

Madrid, Spain

Day 6:    Barcelona, Spain

Day 7:    Marsailles, France

Day 8:    Genoa, Italy

Day 9:    Monterosso, Italy and the Cinque Terre Hike

Day 10:  Rome, Italy, including the Vatican

Day 11:  Naples, Italy and Sorrento, Positano and the Amalfi Coast

Day 12:  Bologna, Italy

Day 13:  Innsbruck, Austria

Day 14:  Nuremburg, Germany

Day 15:  Prague, Czech Republic

Day 16:  Berlin, Germany

Day 17:  Frankfurt, Germany

Day 18:  Fly from Frankfurt, Germany to San Francisco, California

          Consider substituting your own destination choices in place of Bordeaux, France, San Sabastian, Spain and Bologna, Italy…perhaps for more time in Rome and Naples, Italy.  Remember also that you must be flexible when traveling without reservations.  For example, when I couldn’t find lodging in San Sabastian, I went on to Madrid, arriving at 11 PM, and ended up staying up all night partying with the locals.  Not in my original plans, but definitely a night to remember!

Train Travel in Europe
Train Travel in Europe
All Night Party in Madrid, Spain
All Night Party in Madrid, Spain

Summary of Costs

Airfare, San Francisco to Frankfurt, roundtrip         $481.50

Found this great deal at www.Kayak.com

Eurail Pass, 15 Day                                                   $717.00

Eurail Supplements/Reservations                             $111.00

Food (most breakfasts included in lodging)             $200.00

Average $10.00 per day

Lodging (average $65.00 per night)                         $1,091.00

Total                                                                          $2600.50

The Colosseum in Rome, Italy
The Colosseum in Rome, Italy

It’s An Even Better Deal When Two Travel Together!

          For a two and a half week trip to Europe, $2600.50 for total expenses is awesome!  Remember that when two are traveling together, the second Eurail ticket is less expensive than the first.  Also, lodging for two will average less per person than for a single traveler.  With a little planning and attention to costs along the way, you, too, can have a great trip like I had without spending a lot.

Positano, Italy on the Amalfi Coast
Positano, Italy on the Amalfi Coast

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Sea Lion Sanctuary at La Jolla Cove

San Diego, California

The Other Southern California City

          Rather than being thought of as that other Southern California destination, San Diego should be at the top of your list when visiting the lower half of the Golden State.  It has long been one of my favorite cities and I am fortunate to be close enough to get there at least once a year to take in its many beautiful sights and interesting destinations.  Surrounded by inland mountains, rugged canyons, nearby high desert and beautiful rock-studded hills rolling down to sandy beaches, there is no question that you are in the midst of a unique landscape while in the San Diego area.  The city is also blessed with an incredible natural bay and a coastline that rivals any in the world for beauty.

Downtown San Diego
Convention Center in Downtown San Diego

Mexican Food and Indian Casinos 

          Perhaps best known for its famous zoo at Balboa Park, San Diego has many other attractions that make the 120 mile trip (two hours drive time) south of Los Angeles worth the effort.  The Historic Old Town State Park and Mission San Diego give visitors a glimpse into the past and a delightful taste of the Spanish influence that pervades much of California.  Old Town features many well-preserved historic buildings and numerous restaurants with authentic Mexican food and Mariachi bands that will instantly get you into that special mood unique to Southern California.  At least three nearby Indian casinos that rival Las Vegas (which by the way is only a 330 mile, five hour drive away) will give you a chance to double your money at the same time as you experience a real live Indian Reservation.  A short trolley car ride twenty miles south of the city will land you at the U.S.-Mexican border, where you can follow the crowds and gingerly walk across the border so that you can say that you’ve been to Mexico!  But be sure to take your passport.  We do not recommend going beyond the border area at this time due to the current safety issues in Mexico.

The Red San Diego Trolley
The Red San Diego Trolley

San Diego Attractions

          Very much a Navy town, San Diego is also home to the Marine Corps Recruit Depot and several other major military bases.  The military presence is most evident around San Diego Bay and even after just a quick visit you will agree that San Diego does more than its share to help keep American safe.  You will instantly recognize the historic Hotel Del Coronado on Coronado Island, having seen it many times in travel magazines and posters or movies such as ‘Some Like It Hot’.  The San Diego region is also home to a couple of world class universities, several of which have been pioneers in scientific (especially medical) research.  The arts are very much alive in San Diego, with numerous museums and galleries sprinkled throughout the area and many opportunities to experience the performing arts, as well.  Downtown you will find the enormous Convention Center, Little Italy with its wonderful restaurants, the colorful shops at Seaport Village, and the historic Gas Lamp District.

Historic Old Town, San Diego
Historic Old Town, San Diego

Beaches and Mountains

          Don’t forget to visit Sea World where you can have an up close and personal encounter with dolphins and watch the Shamu killer whale show.  Oh, and be sure to take your swim gear and sun lotion so you can lie out on the pure white sand at nearby Ocean Beach and Pacific Beach.  For a spectacular bird’s eye view of San Diego, take a short drive out to suburban La Mesa and hike to the top of Cowles Mountain.  A fairly easy 1.5 mile climb, it should only take a couple hours up and back for anyone in reasonably good physical condition.   Kids will love visiting Legoland, a thirty mile drive north in Carlsbad, and golfers will enjoy visiting the Lawrence Welk Resort, thirty miles north in Escondido.

Hostel in Downtown San Diego
Hostel in Downtown San Diego

La Jolla Cove

          One essential stop anytime I visit San Diego is La Jolla Cove, just north of the city.  Street parking is free and you can window shop as you walk past art galleries, beautiful shops and historic hotels on your way down to the park overlooking the cove.  There you will find a special beach that has been set aside as a sea lion rookery, where humans can get fairly close to these amazing creatures from the sea.  One could spend hours watching the pups snuggling up to their mothers or the adolescents frolicking in the water or the big fat ‘Jabba the Hut’ look-alikes snoozing on the rocks.  For the adventurous visitor, La Jolla Cove is also a great place for kayaking and snorkeling.  For the rest of us, just strolling along the walkway overlooking the sea is quite enough.  The sights and sounds of the breakers hitting the shore will put you in a trance and deliver you far from the worries of the world.

Sea Lion Sanctuary at La Jolla Cove
Sea Lion Sanctuary at La Jolla Cove

Accommodations

          Accommodations in San Diego run the gamut.  You could easily spend hundreds of dollars a night at one of the snazzy hotels downtown, but for value minded travelers there are many other options.  There is a great hostel in the Gas Lamp District downtown (see our link to Hostelling International).  You can book a bed in one of their dorm rooms for as little as $28.00 a night and easily walk from there to many of the venues in the downtown area.  One of my favorite value accommodations in San Diego is the Padre Trail Inn (www.padretrailinn.com) just two blocks from Old Town and the same distance to a major trolley transfer station that can take you almost anywhere for $2.50 one way or $5.00 for an all day trolley/bus pass.  My recent stay at the Padre Trail Inn, which I booked directly through their website, cost about $60.00 a night and included a continental breakfast of coffee and muffins.  While not fancy, this inn met all of my requirements, including safety, cleanliness, service, convenient location and value…and if that wasn’t enough, their friendly, helpful staff members make it a slam dunk that I’ll book with them again on my next trip back to San Diego.  Someday, though, I am going to splurge and stay at least one night at the historic old La Valencia Hotel at the La Jolla Cove!

Padre Trail Inn, San Diego
Padre Trail Inn, San Diego

 

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The Frankfurt Train Station, Germany

Eurail Odyssey

Eurail Odyssey

          If you want to cover a lot of territory and see a big part of Europe in a short time, a Eurail Pass is definitely something you should consider.  They are not cheap, so you must be prepared to get up early and be on the train every day in order to get your money’s worth out of the ticket.  On the other hand, a Eurail pass is convenient, gives you access to the first class areas on the trains and is a safe way to travel.  In May and June of 2009 I took my fifth Eurail tour of Europe, during which I covered a huge swath of the continent including some of the most interesting and beautiful sights in the world, from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean and lots in between.  On this trip I flew in and out of Frankfurt, Germany as I have many times before.  It is one of my favorite gateway cities because of its central location in Europe, its interesting sights and shopping opportunities at the end of the trip and its easy access to the rail system right under the airport.  On this trip I visited Germany, France, Spain, Italy, Austria and the Czech Republic, essentially making a big circle around the middle and southern part of Europe.

The Frankfurt Train Station, Germany
The Frankfurt Train Station, Germany

Eurail Pass

          Keeping with my standard 19 day trip pattern, the 15 day Eurail pass was ideal and was once again the one I selected.  The pass for 15 days of unlimited travel cost $717.00 and it must be purchased before you leave home.  On arrival at the Frankfurt airport on the morning of May 27, I freshened up and then visited an ATM machine at the terminal using a bank card to purchase some Euros.  My first bank card did not work for some reason, confirming the oft given advice to take at least two cards when traveling.  Rather than use up a day of my 15 day Eurail pass for the short ride to Mannheim, I bought a separate ticket and was on my way, arriving in this beautiful little city by 12 Noon.

Mannheim, Germany
Mannheim, Germany
University of Mannheim, Germany
University of Mannheim, Germany

Mannheim, Germany

          Located at the confluence of the Rhine and Neckar Rivers in southwestern Germany, Mannheim is a university town.  I had no trouble finding a nice hotel, the Hotel Basler Hof, and got a nice room and bath with breakfast for the equivalent of $80.00.  That afternoon and evening I walked the city, visiting the University of Mannheim located in the old baroque palace and then walking along the rivers.  It was early to bed after my long flight and besides I needed to rest up for the train ride to Paris the next morning.  One of my favorite things about traveling in Europe is the wonderful breakfasts usually provided with your hotel or pension.  In Germany it is served in a Fruhstuck Zimmer or breakfast room.  At the Hotel Basler Hof the breakfast was gourmet and each table had its own silver hottle of coffee.

Fruhstuckzimmer, Hotel Basler Hof, Mannheim
The Fruhstuckzimmer at the Hotel Basler Hof in Mannheim, Germany.
My Own Silver Hottle of Coffee at the Hotel Basler Hof, Mannheim
My Own Silver Hottle of Coffee at the Hotel Basler Hof, Mannheim

Useful German Phrases:

Fruhstuck:  breakfast, from fruh meaning early and stuck meaning piece, literally an early piece of bread for example

Zimmer:  room;  note all German nouns are capitalized

Fruhstuck Zimmer:  breakfast room

Zimmer frei:  frei means free, so this means room free or available, vacancy

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