Russia

Hollyhocks in Bloom in Astrakhan

Russia in Springtime

Russia in Springtime

          Spring is a wonderful time to visit Russia.  The Russian people are serious gardeners and cherish everything that has to do with nature.  They seem to have a particular interest in cultivating flowers and as a sideline, beekeeping is quite popular there as well.  One of the most spectacular displays of Spring are the lilacs of Russia, which reach their peak blooming period about six weeks after lilacs bloom in North America.  As you travel through this fascinating and beautiful country you will see everything from formal public gardens to the country gardens that grace private homes.  Even the lowly dandelion is treasured as a ground cover in Russia!  Here are a few of my favorite photos of Spring blossoms in the Russian Federation.

Colorful Gardens at Entrance to Red Square, Moscow
Colorful Gardens
Entrance to Red Square, Moscow
Lilacs in Bloom St. Basil's Cathedral, Moscow
Lilacs in Bloom
St. Basil’s Cathedral, Moscow
Tulips Near Kremlin in Nizhny Novgorod
Tulip Garden
Nizhny Novgorod Kremlin
Hollyhocks in Bloom in Astrakhan
Hollyhocks in Bloom in Astrakhan
Garden of Dandelions
Garden of Dandelions

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Suzdal, Russia

Suzdal, Russia…a Gem in the Golden Ring

The Golden Ring

          The Golden Ring is a collection of picturesque ancient towns northeast of Moscow, noted for their history, culture and architectural splendor. Each town typically has a Kremlin or fortress with watch towers and, because the villages in this region played a significant role in the development of the Russian Orthodox Church, each one is replete with churches, monasteries and onion domed cathedrals. Your first stop on the Trans-Siberian Railway going east from Moscow should be the town of Vladimir. On the three hour train ride you’ll have an opportunity to really mingle with the locals before arriving at your destination. On arrival in Vladimir, the four items on your agenda will be to walk up the hill and get a room at the Hotel Vladimir, return to the train station and book your train reservation for the next town of Nizhny Novgorod for the following day, take the one hour bus ride to Suzdal where you will spend a wonderful day, then return to Vladimir and take a walking tour of this charming medieval town during the early evening.

Suzdal, Russia
Suzdal, Russia
Nativity of the Virgin Cathedral, Suzdal
Nativity of the Virgin Cathedral, Suzdal

Suzdal

          This onetime capital before power was consolidated in Moscow is actually fortunate that the Trans-Siberian Railway bypassed it and instead went through Vladimir 22 miles away. As a result, this sleepy hamlet has remained essentially unchanged over the years and is now considered one of the most beautiful spots in all of Russia. Straddling the quietly flowing Kamenka River, Suzdal is everything you envisioned about Russia. The old wooden houses, cathedrals, shops and the kremlin are nestled among gently rolling hills, making it easily walkable for most visitors. The walled kremlin dates back to the 11th century and includes a bell tower and the blue domed Nativity of the Virgin Cathedral. The Savior Monastery of St. Euthymius is located on the river and altogether there are more than 30 cathedrals, churches and monasteries studding the countryside around Suzdal. Be sure to also visit the Trading Arcades in the downtown market square and the Museum of Wooden Architecture and Peasant Life. You’ll have plenty of time to relax and enjoy this bucolic setting before catching the bus back to Vladimir.

The Suzdal Kremlin with the Cathedral of the Nativity
The Suzdal Kremlin with the Cathedral of the Nativity
Suzdal Kremlin
Suzdal Kremlin

Vladimir

          By the time you get back to Vladimir, it will be late afternoon, but after freshening up at the Hotel Vladimir, you’ll still have time for a walking tour of the town. This ancient city is perched high on a bluff overlooking the Oka Valley and the Oka River, a tributary of the Volga River, affording a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside. Most of the important sites in Vladimir are on the same street as the Hotel Vladimir and during a leisurely, slightly uphill walk, you will first come to the Nativity Monastery, then the square shaped Cathedral of St. Demetrius of Salonica, the Assumption Cathedral and finally the Golden Gate. I was fortunate to have an opportunity to attend mass in the resplendent Assumption Cathedral with its gold domes and 15th century frescoes where many of the princes of ancient Russia were crowned. Perhaps one of the most famous sites in Vladimir is the Golden Gate at the end of the boulevard, which is the only remaining part of the original kremlin walls. It was early to bed for me this night, as I had an 8:30 AM train to catch the next morning, which would take me to Nizhny Novgorod, the next stop on the Trans-Siberian Railway.

Assumption Cathedral, Vladimir, Russia
Assumption Cathedral, Vladimir, Russia
Golden Gate, Vladimir, Russia
Golden Gate, Vladimir, Russia

Hotel Vladimir

          The Hotel Vladimir was a great place to stay while visiting Vladimir and Suzdal. It was just a short walk up the hill from the Vladimir Train Station and was located right in the heart of town. I paid about $55 for a nice room with private bath, but breakfast was not included. The front desk staff members were friendly, welcoming and helpful and the entire facility was clean and safe. There were a number of nice shops and restaurants nearby. For all these reasons I can recommend the Hotel Vladimir and consider it a Blue Orb Travel Awesome Accommodation.

Hotel Vladimir in Vladimir, Russia
Hotel Vladimir in Vladimir, Russia
Wooden House, Suzdal, Russia
Wooden House, Suzdal, Russia

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Boarding the Trans-Siberian Railway in Moscow, Russia

Trans-Siberian Railway

Moscow to Beijing on the Trans-Siberian Railway

          My recent trek on the Trans-Siberian Railway was the adventure of a lifetime. The one month trip beginning in mid-May was a wonderful opportunity to get to know the countries of Russia, Mongolia and China and the friendly people who live there. I flew from San Francisco to Moscow, took the Trains-Siberian Railway from Moscow to Beijing via Mongolia and then flew home to San Francisco, making a complete circuit around the globe. As one of the great train journeys of the world, the Trans-Siberian Railway from Moscow to Beijing is also one of the longest at about 5,800 miles.

Boarding the Trans-Siberian Railway in Moscow, Russia
Boarding the Trans-Siberian Railway in Moscow, Russia

Lots of Different Trains

          The Trans-Siberian Railway is not a specific train that you get on in Moscow and get off in either Vladivostok on the eastern coast of Russia or in Beijing, China. Rather, it is a series of many trains that you can get on and off as you please, making it possible to tailor your own trip and make stops along the way. After a layover in Moscow, I set out on a Saturday morning for Vladimir, a beautiful little town in what is known as the Golden Ring, three hours away. The local train was packed with Moscovites heading out to the country for the weekend. Check out the video below for a taste of what the first leg of my trip on the Trans-Siberian Railway was like. In the next article, I will show my itinerary and the stops I made along the way, to help you in planning your trip.

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Olkhon Island, Lake Baikal, Siberia, Russia

Send Me to Siberia, Please!

Irkutsk on the Trans-Siberian Railway

          One of my favorite cities along the Trans-Siberian Railway journey is Irkutsk near Lake Baikal, deep in the heart of Siberia.  It is an easy walk or trolley ride from the Irkutsk Railway Station across the Ankara River into the city center, where I stayed at the popular Baikaler Hostel.  The friendly, helpful hostel staff arranged a two night excursion to Olkhon Island on Lake Baikal where I stayed at Nikita’s Homestead, a rustic lodge with all the conveniences of home.  The round trip bus ride to the village of Khuzhir and two nights at Nikita’s, including meals, cost just a little over $50.  Now that’s what I call a bargain!

Olkhon Island, Lake Baikal, Siberia, Russia
Olkhon Island on Lake Baikal, Siberia
Irkutsk Waterfront
Waterfront Scene in Irkutsk, Siberia

Lake Baikal

          Lake Baikal, which means ‘nature lake’, is the deepest and the largest fresh water lake (by volume) in the world, containing 20% of the world’s fresh water.  It was formed by a rift which is still growing and its clear water and surrounding mountains make it a spectacularly beautiful place to visit.  Olkhon Island is easily accessible by bus and ferry and the three day diversion from the Trans-Siberian Railway journey is an experience not to be missed.

Olkhon Island Excursion
Leaving Nikita’s Homestead for a Tour of Olkhon Island
Room at Nikita's Homestead, Olkhon Island, Lake Baikal, Siberia
My Room at Nikita’s Homestead, Olkhon Island on Lake Baikal, Siberia

Nikita’s Homestead

          The laid back, friendly atmosphere at Nikita’s Homestead makes it the ideal place to meet adventurous travelers from all over the world.  The family style dining room serves up some delicious Russian meals and doubles as a gathering place for evening entertainment.  Each afternoon we walked down to the little store in town to buy some beer and after dinner all the guests gathered together outside to watch the sunset over the lake.  The staff at Nikita’s can arrange tours of the island and I had the good fortune to join two young ladies from Austria for a fun day, traveling to the top of the island and back.  By the end of each day I was ready to hit the sack in my comfortable little cabin.  Nikita’s Homestead is definitely one of my favorite sleeps and it has earned its spot as an Awesome Accommodation on Blue Orb Travel.

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The Subways of Moscow, Russia

The Subways of Moscow, Russia

An Adventure

          Riding the subways of Moscow, Russia can be quite a challenge, to say the least.  But it can also be an adventure and it is definitely a great way to mingle with the friendly people of Russia.  Some of the subway routes are complicated and even duplicated, which is probably why I never seemed to go the same way twice to and from my hotel.  Some of the personnel stationed in cubicles at the bottom of each escalator do not seem anxious to answer questions, probably because they don’t speak English.  In fact, the language barrier is one of the greatest difficulties when traveling anywhere in Russia and can be particularly vexing when using the train or subway systems.  Almost everyone else, including the roaming uniformed police knocked themselves out to try to help when I asked them for directions.

The Subways of Moscow, Russia
The Subways of Moscow, Russia

Steeped in History

          The Moscow subway or metro was built in 1935 and now has more than 200 miles of track, mostly underground.  It is one of the deepest subways in the world, with the deepest section more than 240 feet below ground.  You will definitely get a feel for this when you are riding one of the interminable escalators deep into the ground below Moscow.  Many of the stations near the center of Moscow are considered architectural marvels, displaying high ceilings, beautiful chandeliers and marble walls.  Riding and exploring the Moscow subways should definitely be a part of any visit to this fascinating city.

The Subways of Moscow, Russia
The Subways of Moscow, Russia

An Embarrassing Moment

          I had a funny incident occur when I arrived late in the evening on my recent trip to Moscow.  After taking the last airport train to the city center I transferred to the subway to go to my hotel.  It was only three stops away, so I didn’t take my backpack off when I sat down on one of the benches near the doors.  The train was still crowded at that late hour and a young man who got on at the next stop sat down next to me.  As we approached my stop I got up and grabbed what I thought was one of those steel poles to help get myself up with my pack still on.  It turned out that I grabbed the hockey stick the young man next to me was holding.  I nearly fell over and felt like a complete jerk.  After looking at me like I was crazy for a moment, he and the rest of the passengers broke out in a good natured laugh.  Fortunately, no one could tell that I was an American, but I was awfully glad when the doors opened and I could get out.

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Unique Pattern of Lilac Blossoms in Russia

The Lilacs of Russia

Russian Lilacs

          Along with warmer weather and burgeoning wildlife activity, colorful flowers are the universal harbingers of Spring.  Japan may have its cherry blossoms and Holland may have its tulips, but Russia certainly gives them a run for their money with its spectacular lilacs.  I found them all across Russia in many varieties and colors, whether in well-groomed city parks, the rural countryside or the front yard of a private home.  The lilac’s scientific name, Syringa vulgaris, doesn’t sound very flattering, but it actually just means ‘common lilac’.  In Russia the lilacs are anything but common.  They bloom in May, a little later than in the United States, and if you’re fortunate enough to be there when they are out in full glory, you can enjoy mingling with the locals as they delight in the beauty and fragrance of these gorgeous blossoms. 

Unique Pattern of Lilac Blossoms in Russia
Unique Pattern of Lilac Blossoms in Russia
Spectacular Profusion of Lilacs in Russia
Spectacular Profusion of Lilacs in Russia
Lilacs in St. Petersburg, Russia
Lilacs in St. Petersburg, Russia

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