Ireland

The Guinness Brewery, Dublin, Ireland

Dublin, Ireland

Dublin, Ireland…Journey’s End

It was inevitable that my two and a half week trek through England, Wales, Scotland, Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland would have to come to an end, so what better place to wind it up than Dublin!  For many travelers, Dublin is a dream destination to be experienced at least once during a lifetime.  Located on the east coast of Ireland where the River Liffey flows into the Irish Sea separating England from Ireland, Dublin is the capital of the Republic of Ireland and also its most populous city.

The Custom House Across the River Liffey, Dublin
The Custom House Across the River Liffey, Dublin

The word ‘Dublin’ means ‘black pool’ and humans have been known to inhabit the area since prehistoric times.  The first recorded accounts of life in Dublin date back to 140 AD and as the centuries rolled by, the events that transpired in this fascinating city would not only secure its place in history, but also ensure its role as a major player on the 21st Century world stage.  Today, Dublin is the center of culture, finance and education in Ireland, as well as being its seat of government.  So, let’s go together now on a whirlwind, walking tour of Dublin, Ireland.

The Millennium Spire, Dublin, Ireland
The Millennium Spire, Dublin, Ireland

 Points of Interest North of the River Liffey 

O’Connell Street 

The River Liffey divides Dublin into two sectors, known as the Northside and the Southside, and is traversed along its course by a number of interesting bridges, from the ultramodern Samuel Beckett Bridge opened in 2009 to the historic Mellows Bridge constructed in 1764.  The streets that run alongside the river on each side are divided into Quays that extend between each bridge.  The centrally located O’Connell Bridge is a good starting point for a walking tour of Dublin.  Crossing over to the Northside sets you on a path down this wide boulevard lined with shops, restaurants, pubs and a number of important sights.  One of the most noticeable is the Millennium Spire completed in 2003.  Also known as the Spire of Dublin or the Monument of Light, the location of this modern, 400 foot, stainless steel needle next to the 200 year old General Post Office typifies the juxtaposition of old and new throughout Dublin.

O'Connell Street, Dublin, Ireland
O’Connell Street, Dublin, Ireland

The Garden of Remembrance

Dublin figured prominently during the Irish War of Independence and a little farther north on O’Connell Street is Parnell Square and the Garden of Remembrance.  The garden was opened in 1966 and is dedicated to the memory of ‘all those who gave their lives in the cause of Irish freedom’.  Lost in my own thoughts, I paused for a moment in this peaceful, outdoor sanctuary, joining the other tourists and Dubliners who were gathered there in silent reflection.

The Garden of Remembrance, Dublin, Ireland
The Garden of Remembrance, Dublin, Ireland

Potpourri of Culture

Those who appreciate Irish literature will want to continue on to the Dublin Writers Museum and the James Joyce Cultural Centre.  With a little sleuthing the original location of 7 Eccles Street featured in Joyce’s Ulysses can still be found.  Continuing on the Northside, but east of O’Conner Street, is the Custom House built in the 1780s and undoubtedly Dublin’s greatest contribution to the world of architecture.  Its impressive dome and columns are actually best viewed from across the river looking northward.  Heading westward now, a visit to the Old Jameson Distillery will delight aficionados of Irish whiskey and you can even wet your whistle with a free drink at the end of the tour.  Remember, all of these sights are easily accessible on foot and having gotten to this point, visitors can now take their pick of interesting bridges to cross back over to the Southside.

The Old Jameson Distillery, Dublin, Ireland
The Old Jameson Distillery, Dublin, Ireland

Points of Interest South of the River Liffey 

Guinness Brewery 

For most visitors to Dublin, the best known sights are likely to be located south of the River Liffey.  Our walking tour has thus far taken us on a counter-clockwise sweep of the city.  We are now at the west end of the Southside of Dublin near Heuston Station, built in 1846 and still one of Ireland’s main railway stations.  The nearby Kilmainham Gaol where many of the Irish nationalist leaders were incarcerated was built as a prison in 1796 and is now open to the public as a museum.  Continuing eastward after exploring this sobering landmark, a visit to the Guinness Brewery and Storehouse dating back to 1759 will get your Irish mojo back on track.

The Guinness Brewery, Dublin, Ireland
The Guinness Brewery, Dublin, Ireland

Medieval Dublin

The Vikings, mostly from Denmark, settled in Dublin in the 9th century and retained control until the Norman Invasion of 1169.  Once England assumed power in the region it operated from the Dublin Castle which dates back to 1204.  The Record Tower is the only surviving tower and dates back to 1228.  History buffs will also want to see St. Audden’s Gate (1275) and the old city walls in the Viking Medieval Area, all in the vicinity of the castle.

Dublin Castle, Ireland
Dublin Castle, Ireland

The Cathedral District

Next up, in the appropriately named Cathedral District you will come to the historic Christ Church Cathedral founded around 1030 AD.  If you time it just right, you may get to hear the well-known choir, the magnificent organ and the pealing of the 19 tower bells, all of which carry on the musical tradition for which this church is known.  Just a little farther south is Ireland’s largest cathedral, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, dating back to 1191, which contains the grave of writer Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver’s Travels.  The choir at St. Patrick’s Cathedral provided many of the voices for the first public performance of Handel’s Messiah which took place in Dublin in 1742.

St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin, Ireland
St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin, Ireland

Trinity College

Perhaps one of the most famous universities in the world, Trinity College is located literally in the heart of Dublin.  Founded in 1592 during the rein of Queen Elizabeth I, its impressive list of graduates includes such literary notables as Oscar Wilde, Samuel Beckett, Jonathon Swift and Bram Stoker of Dracula fame.  The library at Trinity College contains the famous Book of Kells, a lavishly illustrated manuscript of The Four Gospels of the New Testament created by Celtic monks sometime before 800 AD.  After a stroll through the perfectly manicured quads which are lined with architecturally classic buildings you’ll see why Trinity College is considered one of the most beautiful campuses in the world.

Shakespeare Players at Trinity College, Dublin
Shakespeare Players at Trinity College, Dublin

Temple Bar 

South of the college is a peaceful park known as St. Stephen’s Green where you can take a breather after visiting the adjacent shopping centers.  The historic display of Georgian architecture surrounding nearby Merrion Square is also worth a peek.  After visiting the National History Museum and National Gallery next to Merrion Square you can cool your heels at one of the many pubs in the Temple Bar area.  With its cobblestone streets and period buildings, this bustling district running alongside the River Liffey will give you a taste of ancient Dublin.  You can also enjoy a taste of beer or whiskey as you enjoy they vibrant nightlife in this popular tourist destination.

The Temple Bar Area, Dublin, Ireland
The Temple Bar Area, Dublin, Ireland

Tips for Planning Your Trip 

Dublin as a Gateway City

Not only is Dublin a beautiful and historic city with lots of great hotels, restaurants and pubs, but it also has convenient access to the modern Dublin Airport 6 miles north of the city as well as easy access to both bus and rail lines.  With its central location and the many airlines that service its airport, Dublin should be considered as a potential gateway city for any trip to the British Isles or the European continent.  Completing the last leg of my journey, I arrived around noon on a weekday in early June after a 4 hour bus ride from Cork (on my favorite Bus Eireann) with the ticket costing about $18.  After waiting out a brief downpour, I walked from the bus station, across the river to my hotel with a little help from several friendly police officers (referred to as Garda in Ireland) who were glad to assist me with directions.  The friendliness of the Irish people simply cannot be overstated.

The Samuel Beckett Bridge and the Convention Centre, Dublin
The Samuel Beckett Bridge and the Convention Centre, Dublin

The Drury Court Hotel

I’d made a reservation at the Drury Court Hotel near the Temple Bar area before leaving on my trip and for the equivalent of $98 I had a nice room in a great location.  It’s worth pointing out once again that the only reservations I make ahead of time are for the first and last nights of my trip, since these are the only nights I know for sure where I will be.  Interestingly, these are often the most expensive nights of my trip and for the most part just walking in on arrival will get you a better value for your money, especially during the off-season.  When my visit had finally come to an end I was able to catch an Airlink bus near my hotel going directly to the Dublin Airport for $8.50.  All that was left now was the long flight home and a lot of wonderful memories.  Be sure to return for my next posting where I will recap my itinerary which you can tailor to meet your own needs for your trip through the British Isles.

The Drury Court Hotel, Dublin, Ireland
The Drury Court Hotel, Dublin, Ireland

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Cork, Ireland

History, Culture and Architectural Splendor

The city of Cork in southern Ireland is a major seaport and the third most populous city in Ireland.  The name ‘Cork’ comes from the Irish word meaning marsh and the city center is actually located on an island where the River Lee divides into two channels before converging again to flow to the sea.  From the time it was founded by Saint Finbarr in the 6th century, Cork has been at the center of Irish history in one fashion or another.  It served as a Viking trading post beginning around 920 AD, had its population decimated by the Black Death plague in 1349, played a role in the English War of the Roses in 1491 and was a major player in the War of Independence in the early 20th century.  Recent history is reflected in the beautiful churches and cathedrals that grace the city, including the famous neo-Gothic Saint Fin Barre’s (Protestant) and St. Mary’s (Catholic) Cathedrals.  Christ Church in the Old Town and St. Anne’s Church, which houses the Bells of Shandon in its clock tower, round out the architectural splendor on display at the houses of worship in Cork.

The Bells of Shandon Across the River Lee, Cork, Ireland
The Bells of Shandon Across the River Lee, Cork, Ireland

Elizabeth Fort was built as a fortification outside the city walls in 1601.  While parts of the fort are now used as a police station, other areas are accessible to tourists, as are some of the original town walls.  Culture abounds in Cork, as attested by the Crawford Art Gallery, the ultra modern Cork Opera House and the beautiful University College Cork, built in 1845, which straddles the south channel of the River Lee.  While all of these sites are easily accessible on foot, St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral and the University College Cork located near one another on the south side of the city are particularly worth the time and effort to see.

University College, Cork, Ireland
University College, Cork, Ireland

Kissing the Blarney Stone

No trip to Ireland would be complete without kissing the Blarney Stone.  Located high up in the tower of the 600 year old Blarney Castle just outside of Cork, the Blarney Stone can only be kissed while lying on your back and being suspended partially upside down…and trusting the guide to hold you!  It really isn’t as scary as it sounds and once done, the gift of Irish gab is supposedly conferred upon the ‘kisser’.  The short bus ride from the Cork city center to the castle cost about $9 for the round trip and the entrance fee to the castle grounds was about $15.

Blarney Castle Near Cork, Ireland
Blarney Castle Near Cork, Ireland

The Blarney Castle and Gardens are actually a large, active estate located on the River Martin and the Blarney River.  Visitors can also tour the elegant Blarney House built in 1874 where the current baronet and his family actually live.  Put on your hiking shoes as you take a self guided tour of the gardens, the castle with its dungeons and caves and the rock close with its waterfalls, Druid’s Cave and Witch’s Stone.  One could spend hours wandering the grounds and exploring the many points of interest to be found in this magical place.  Trust me!  You won’t want to miss it.  Just before I left I’m almost certain I saw several Leprechauns, but then maybe I’m just full of Blarney.

Kissing the Blarney Stone Atop Blarney Castle, Ireland
Kissing the Blarney Stone Atop Blarney Castle, Ireland

The Friendly Corkonians

The hour and a half bus ride from Killarney to Cork cost about $24 and took us through some beautiful sights and scenery, including the market town of Macroom.  Corkonians are a very friendly lot and I enjoyed chatting with a number of them during my wanderings about the city.  It’s interesting to note that they are sometimes referred to as ‘The Rebels’ for their early disavowal of British domination during the long struggle for Irish independence.  I was very fortunate to find a wonderful place to stay while I was in Cork and encourage you to return for my full report on Creedon’s Bed and Breakfast.  It goes without saying that with its many cultural and architectural treasures in addition to the nearby Blarney Castle, Cork is an essential stop on any trek through Ireland.

Saint Fin Barre's Cathedral, Cork, Ireland
Saint Fin Barre’s Cathedral, Cork, Ireland

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The Ring of Kerry, Ireland

Killarney and the Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry

A tour of the Ring of Kerry, located on the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry, has become an almost mandatory pilgrimage for every visitor to Ireland.  A bus tour is a great way to see the many beautiful sights on this heavily trafficked trail and usually takes about six hours to complete.  Because of the difficulty buses have passing one another on some of the narrow roads, they all travel in a counterclockwise direction along the coast.  I had a great experience with O’Connor Auto Tours which provided an entertaining (and very skilled) bus driver who regaled us with his gift of Irish gab and gave us plenty of time at each stop.  The tour cost about $32, not including lunch, and I’m quite sure you’ll be glad you left the driving to them rather than trying to navigate the narrow, winding roads in a rental car.

The Ring of Kerry, Ireland
The Ring of Kerry, Ireland

There was an additional fee for several special points of interest along the way, one of the most interesting of which was the sheepdog herding demonstration.  The tour took us through Killorglin, Caherciveen, Waterville, Sneem, Molls Gap and Ladies’ View in addition to a visit to the Kerry Bog Village Museum in Glenbeigh before returning to Killarney.  One of the most enjoyable things about traveling is the people you meet along the way, like the nice folks who were on the tour bus with me.  So, here’s a ‘hello’ to Luca and Elena from Italy, Brian from Philadelphia and the two lovely young ladies from Victoria, British Columbia.

The Kerry Bog Village Museum, Ireland
The Kerry Bog Village Museum, Ireland

Killarney 

Located in southwestern Ireland, Killarney has an ancient history and the castles, abbeys and cathedrals to prove it.  With its trout filled lakes, mountain crags and oak studded woodlands, it has become one of the most popular tourist destinations in all of Ireland.  Killarney is not just a great jumping off place for the Ring of Kerry, but a worthy destination in its own right!  After returning from the Ring of Kerry tour I walked around the old town with its colorful shops, pubs and restaurants, visited the famous St. Mary’s Cathedral and enjoyed seeing some of the beautifully manicured gardens that surround many of the lovely homes that line the streets.

Killarney National Park, Ireland
Killarney National Park, Ireland

I always like to immerse myself in local events when I travel and it just happened that there was an international gathering of bikers taking place at the Gleneagle Hotel while I was in Killarney.  I had fun mingling with the crowds, enjoying the free entertainment and drooling over the beautiful Harley-Davidson motorcycles that had come from all over the world.  My walk skirted the Killarney National Park where I got a glimpse of Muckross Abbey, but unfortunately I missed some of the most well known sites in Killarney, including Ross Castle, Muckross House and the nearby Torc Waterfall, which will have to wait until my next trip to Ireland.  There just was not enough time to see everything, giving me a good excuse to return to Killarney some day.

Bikers in Killarney, Ireland
Bikers in Killarney, Ireland

Trek through Ireland Drawing to a Close

With my trek through Ireland winding down to the last few days before I would have to fly home, I couldn’t imagine that there would still be so much more waiting for me to see!  It seemed that each place I visited outdid the ones that came before and the town of Killarney and the nearby Ring of Kerry were no exception!  Fortunately, I’d made reservations before I left Tralee for a room at a bed and breakfast as well as a seat on the tour bus to the Ring of Kerry.  The 40 minute bus ride from Tralee to Killarney cost about $12 and the driver was kind enough to make a special stop near Leen’s Bed and Breakfast where I was given a warm welcome.  I was able to check into my room early so that I could leave my pack and be ready for the tour bus that picked me up out front at 10 AM.  Be sure to return for our full report on Leen’s Bed and Breakfast in Killarney, Ireland…a wonderful place to stay!

The Ring of Kerry, Ireland
The Ring of Kerry, Ireland

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St. John's Catholic Church from the Town Park Rose Gardens

Tralee, Ireland and the Dingle Peninsula

The Rose of Tralee

Written in the nineteenth century, ‘The Rose of Tralee’ is a famous Irish ballad about a woman who was ‘lovely and fair’, a description that has come to embody the features of all the beautiful young colleens in Ireland.  Every year young ladies from Irish communities throughout the world compete for the distinction of being selected ‘The Rose’, culminating in the crowning of the winner at the Rose of Tralee Festival held here in August.  Because of its familiar name, Tralee was one of the places I was anxious to visit on my trek through Ireland.  For a $25 ticket I took the two hour ride from Limerick on my favorite Bus Eireann, arriving in Tralee around noon on a Saturday in early June.  But once again, the town would have to wait, so that I could catch the bus out to see the Dingle Peninsula first.

St. John's Catholic Church from the Town Park Rose Gardens
St. John’s Catholic Church from the Town Park Rose Gardens

The Dingle Peninsula and Dingle Town

As a popular tourist destination the Dingle Peninsula is catching up with the Iveragh Peninsula, its next door neighbor to the south, which boasts the famous Ring of Kerry.  Also located in County Kerry, the Dingle Peninsula is named for Dingle Town which is a picturesque little village on the Dingle River where it flows into a sheltered harbor on the Atlantic Coast.  While Dingle Town has a long history as a fishing port and still has traces of the town walls that once surrounded it, today’s visitors will be particularly impressed with the narrow, hilly streets lined with brightly painted shops, pubs and houses.  A short walk up the hill behind the town will reward you with a great view of the surrounding countryside and the harbor below which is teeming with fishing boats.  You can take a boat ride out to the mouth of the Dingle Harbor where Fungie the world famous bottlenose dolphin has greeted visitors since 1984 and perhaps even take a swim with him.  If time permits you can also take the scenic drive out towards Dunmore Head, the western most point in Ireland.  The round trip bus fare from Tralee to Dingle Town cost about $22 and took an hour each way.  But you’ll be wishing it took longer so you’d have more time to enjoy the breathtaking scenery along the way.

Colorful Streets of Dingle Town, Ireland
Colorful Streets of Dingle Town, Ireland

Tralee

The weather was somewhat dreary when I got back to Tralee in the early evening to set out on my walking tour of this pretty little town.  In addition to being a great jumping off place for the Dingle Peninsula (and the Ring of Kerry, as well), Tralee was full of friendly people and interesting things to see.  It was quite pleasant to walk along the wide streets lined with Georgian edifices and to go window shopping on The Mall and to stroll through the Town Square filled with the Irish music flowing from the nearby pubs.  Along the way I visited St. John’s Catholic Church and the Pikeman Memorial which commemorates the 1798 Irish Rebellion.  Rounding out the evening I took the long walk along the ship canal to check out the locks and to see the Blennerville Windmill, the oldest one in Ireland still in operation.  One of the most beautiful spots in Tralee is the town park which is filled with the town’s namesake roses and many other colorful flowers.  Right across from the town park is the Kerry County Museum which has the Tralee Tourist Office in the basement.  I knew that timing would be critical on the next day of my trip so the helpful staff there booked my accommodations in Killarney and got me a seat on the Ring of Kerry tour bus a day in advance.

The Canal Walk and the Blennerville Windmill
The Canal Walk and the Blennerville Windmill

Finnegan’s Hostel

After checking several hotels on my short walk from the bus station into town (and finding them either full or too expensive!) I happened upon Finnegan’s Hostel right in the heart of Tralee.  With a name like Finnegan’s it couldn’t get much more Irish and this was without a doubt the best bargain on my trip to Ireland!  For $35 I got a great room with private bath and breakfast included!  While it is more like a budget bed and breakfast it does have dormitory rooms in addition to twin and double rooms.  There are 40 beds in all and each room has an en suite bathroom.  Located right across from the rose gardens in the town park this Georgian town house was completed in 1826 and each room is named after a famous Irish author.  Finnegan’s Hostel was clean, safe, comfortable, a good value and conveniently located…all criteria that must be met to make it onto our list of Awesome Accommodations.  The friendly staff provided a lot of good information about what to see in Tralee and how to get out to Dingle Town.  The facility also features bike rental, laundry service and an elegant restaurant in the cellar.  This would be a great place for group accommodations, but regardless of your travel needs, this is where you will want to stay during your visit to Tralee.

Finnegan's Hostel, Tralee, Ireland
Finnegan’s Hostel, Tralee, Ireland

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The Cliffs of Moher, Ireland

Limerick, Ireland and the Cliffs of Moher

‘There Was a Young Maid from Nantucket’

Every schoolboy throughout the English speaking world knows a naughty Limerick, that five line bit of doggerel that has entertained folks since the first ones were penned by the poets of Croom, County Limerick, Ireland back in the 1700s.  Since then, ‘poets’ from Lewis Carroll to Ogden Nash to Mark Twain have tried their hand at putting together a witty verse that will flow off the tongue as only an Irish lyric can.  As a lifelong student of the written word, I was thrilled to be heading to another important landmark on the trail featuring the history of Irish literature.  I took the two hour train ride from Galway to Limerick by way of Ennis for the equivalent of $14, arriving around noon on a Friday.  There was a lot to see in the city of Limerick, but my first objective was to catch the bus out to the Cliffs of Moher.

The Cliffs of Moher, Ireland
The Cliffs of Moher, Ireland

The Cliffs of Moher

One of the most popular tourist destinations in all of Ireland, the Cliffs of Moher rise 702 feet above the rugged Atlantic Coast in County Clare.  From this vantage point you can see all the way to the Aran Islands, Galway Bay and Connemara and you can also get a glimpse of some of the twenty species of sea birds that nest on the cliffs.  These spectacular shale and sandstone cliffs are named after the old fort ‘Mothar’ that was destroyed during the Napoleonic Wars.  Built in 1835, O’Brien’s Tower is now the highest point in the park and affords visitors a stunning view of the cliffs and surrounding area.  Built into the side of a hill and opened in 2007, the visitor center is well worth the $8.50 entrance fee.  The cliffs are about a one and a half hour bus or car ride from either Galway or Limerick.  While I took the round trip bus ride from Limerick costing $32, it might make more sense for travelers with a rental car to go from Galway to the cliffs and then on to Limerick or vice versa.  Either way, you will not want to miss this impressive natural attraction that draws nearly one million visitors each year.

The Visitor Center at the Cliffs of Moher
The Visitor Center at the Cliffs of Moher

Limerick

Originating as a Viking settlement in 812, Limerick straddles the River Shannon near the Atlantic coast of Ireland.  Although it is the third largest city in Ireland, it is fairly easy to walk to the main points of interest and along the way you will enjoy taking in the magnificent 18th century Georgian architecture that many of the buildings feature.  On my late afternoon tour I visited St. John’s Castle dating back to 1212 and St. Mary’s Cathedral dating back to 1168, making it one of the oldest cathedrals in Ireland.  The newer St. John’s Church boasts Ireland’s tallest spire at 308 feet.  The Treaty Stone commemorates the Treaty of Limerick signed after the second Siege of Limerick in 1691 which ended the war when the Jacobites surrendered to the Orangemen, supporters of King William III of Orange.  Nearby, the famous Milk Market has been in operation since 1852 and still features produce from local farmers and other tradesmen.  Enjoying the vibrant nightlife of Limerick will round out your tour and should include a visit to WJ South’s pub, well known in local literary circles.

St. John's Castle, Limerick, Ireland
St. John’s Castle, Limerick, Ireland

The Railway Hotel

If you’re looking for a great place to stay right in the heart of Limerick, check out the Railway Hotel.  It’s just a few minutes walk from the train and bus stations and I was fortunate to get a room there shortly after arriving at the Limerick railway station (Colby Station).  This thirty room hotel was originally built in 1871 as a ‘coaching inn’ and is now a family run operation.  The staff was very friendly and helpful and as soon as you enter the front door you will find that the ambience is in keeping with a warm and welcoming inn.  The convenient restaurant and pub located on the main floor seem to be quite popular with the local folks.  I got a nice room with private bath and a delicious full Irish breakfast for $58…a real bargain!  The facility was clean, safe, comfortable, well-located and a good value for the money.  The Railway Hotel met all my criteria for an excellent place to stay and I can definitely recommend it to you for your next visit to Limerick, Ireland.

The Railway Hotel, Limerick, Ireland
The Railway Hotel, Limerick, Ireland

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The Seaside Town of Clifden in the Cannemara Region of Ireland

Galway, Ireland

Galway, Another Gem of the Emerald Isle

Straddling the River Corrib where it enters Galway Bay, the city of Galway was a pleasant, unexpected surprise on my trek down the west coast of Ireland.  A $23 bus ticket from Sligo landed me at the new Coach Station in Galway following a two hour ride through the countryside.  After getting checked in to my hotel I set out on a circular walking tour of the city that began on the other side of the river.  There I visited the Galway Cathedral and the famous National University of Ireland at Galway which dates back to 1849.  From that point you can take ‘The Canal Walk’ going south beside the Eglington Canal where you’ll see its interesting locks and get a glimpse of life in Galway along the way.  In just a few minutes you’ll end up at the old fishing village of Claddagh.  Lovers throughout the world are familiar with the popular Claddagh ring featuring two clasped hands holding a crowned heart which originated there.

Galway Cathedral on the River Corrib
Galway Cathedral on the River Corrib

Galway City Center

Completing the circle with just a short walk across the river, this time by way of the Wolf Tone Bridge, will lead you back to the City Center.  There are several points of historical interest in the City Center, including the medieval St. Nicholas’ Church dating back to 1320 where Christopher Columbus worshiped when he visited Galway in 1477.  The medieval walls are a tangible reminder that the city of Galway is 800 years old.  Lynch’s Castle is an excellent example of an intact medieval town house in the heart of the city and visitors will also be interested in having a look at the home of Nora Barnacle, wife of the author James Joyce.

A Couple of Irish Buckos Fishing in Galway Bay
A Couple of Irish Buckos Fishing in Galway Bay

The Latin Quarter

Who knew Galway had a vibrant Latin Quarter!  At night Quay Street in the city center transforms into a Disneyland for party animals.  Lined with colorfully lighted sidewalk cafes, restaurants and pubs, this pedestrian thoroughfare will appeal to visitors of all ages.  As you stroll along this crowded byway you’ll be serenaded by street musicians playing everything from traditional Irish music to Latin salsa.  In fact one group from Scotland that plays there is called Celtic Salsa!  After enjoying this sensory overload you can take a more relaxing jaunt down around the area where the river meets the bay.  Here you will see the Spanish Arch built in 1584 and if you take the nearby Long Walk to the harbor area you’ll pass groups of Galway locals sitting out on the lawns enjoying the beautiful evening.

The Latin Quarter, Galway, Ireland
The Latin Quarter, Galway, Ireland

Gateway to Clifden and Connemara

Between my early afternoon walking tour of Galway and my evening in the Latin Quarter, I took a four hour side trip to the stunning seaside village of Clifden in the heart of the region known as Connemara.  The bus ride itself was worth the $21 roundtrip ticket, but nothing could have prepared me for the breathtaking beauty of Clifden.  The town center is full of interesting souvenir shops, tea shops, pubs and quaint buildings, but it is even more captivating when viewed from a distance.  If time and energy permit you should take the walk along the Owenglen River out to where it enters Clifden Bay on the Atlantic Ocean.  It was fun watching the fishermen and townspeople along the way and you’ll get a special treat when looking back at the town of Clifden from this vantage point.

The Seaside Town of Clifden in the Cannemara Region of Ireland
The Seaside Town of Clifden in the Cannemara Region of Ireland

Garvey’s Inn

Literally a two minute walk from both the bus and train stations, Garvey’s Inn is located on Eyre Square, also known as John F. Kennedy Memorial Park.  Just a few steps through this beautiful, green park crowded with city folk out enjoying the sun and you’re on your way to the city center with all its attractions, including the Latin Quarter.  I was able to get a great room at Garvey’s Inn for about $80.00 which included a private bath and a wonderful breakfast.  In addition to the great location, Garvey’s Inn features newly refurbished rooms, all en suite and all equipped with television, coffee and tea tray, and other amenities.  A great pub and restaurant dating back to the 1800s are conveniently located on the first floor.  I found Garvey’s Inn to be comfortable, clean and safe and the staff members were friendly and helpful.  No question about it…Galway is another town that you will definitely want to include on your itinerary when visiting Ireland!

Garvey's Inn on Eyre Square, Galway, Ireland
Garvey’s Inn on Eyre Square, Galway, Ireland

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