The Bellstone Hotel in Shrewsbury, England…An Awesome Accommodation
The first several establishments that I tried after arriving rather late in the day in Shrewsbury, England were either fully booked or too expensive. One proprietor who had no vacancies was kind enough to point me in the direction of the Bellstone Hotel and in no time I was checking into a sparkling clean room with private bath for the equivalent of $98, including a full Shropshire breakfast. I soon found out that the hotel was brand new, having just recently opened and I apparently had the honor of being the first guest to occupy my room.
The Bellstone Hotel, Shrewsbury, England
Located on a fairly quiet street in the center of town, the Bellstone is a stylish hotel with 12 well appointed en-suite rooms and a bar and bistro on the main floor. The staff members were extremely pleasant, friendly and welcoming and immediately made me feel right at home. After getting checked in and settled into my room, I was able to head out for a tour of the medieval town of Shrewsbury, armed with a map and a list of important sights to see provided by the hotel manager.
Bar and Bistro at the Bellstone Hotel
My room could not have been more comfortable…with a nice bed, desk, television and coffee and tea tray provided by the hotel. The bathroom was spacious and clean and there was a skylight that afforded an interesting view of a nearby clock tower. After my invigorating walk around Shrewsbury it felt good to get back to my room, get my shoes off and take a load off my feet. I gave in to my rapidly developing habit of sitting down with a cup of tea as I contemplated my day in this beautiful little walled medieval city.
Room at the Bellstone Hotel, Shrewsbury, England
After a good night’s sleep I had a wonderful breakfast the next morning. I discovered that breakfast in the British Isles is generally composed of eggs, hash brown potatoes, fried tomatoes and mushrooms, baked beans, ham or bacon (rashers in Ireland!), toast and tea or coffee. By this stage of my trip I had already learned to decline the black pudding, which is actually blood sausage! Breakfast in England is called a ‘full English breakfast’, in Ireland it is a ‘full Irish breakfast’, and in this case, since I was in the county of Shropshire, it was a ‘full Shropshire breakfast’, each one having its own slight variations. In any case, the breakfast at the Bellstone Hotel was delicious and after bidding farewell to my gracious hosts I was soon on my way to catch the train to Conwy, Wales. On your next trip to the British Isles you will not want to miss Shrewsbury, England and the Bellstone Hotel would be a perfect place to stay while you are there!
Shiny New Bathroom at the Bellstone Hotel, Shrewsbury, EnglandFull Shropshire Breakfast at the Bellstone HotelClock Tower Through the Skylight
Shrewsbury, England was one of the pleasant surprises of my trip through the British Isles. On my rough itinerary it was originally planned as just a place to spend the night after the scenic train ride through the heart of Wales and before setting off the following morning to Conwy on the north coast of Wales. Little did I know that Shrewsbury would turn out to be a colorful gem embedded in the green English countryside. Just across the border from Wales, it is set in pastoral Shropshire County with the River Severn winding slowly around the center of the city. I arrived in this historic market town late in the afternoon, still entranced by the wonderful train ride from Swansea, and was fortunate to find a room straight away at the Bellstone Hotel, which will be featured in my next posting.
A Walk Through History
With a map and directions provided by the friendly folks at the hotel, I set out on a circuitous walk around the town. Although somewhat hilly, Shrewsbury should be easily walkable for most fit travelers. While most of the highlights could be covered in several hours, much more time is required to really take in and enjoy all the pleasures this delightful medieval city has to offer. Steeped in history dating back to the 5th century, its most notable native son is none other than Charles Darwin himself. The Battle of Shrewsbury was fought a few miles north of town in 1403 with King Henry IV’s victory commemorated in Shakespeare’s play of the same name.
Going With the Flow
My walking tour took me down to the River Severn, the longest river in the UK, where rowing is a popular pastime. Walking along Victoria Quay past the Welsh Bridge you can look across to the elegant brick edifice of Shrewsbury School perched on a hillside overlooking the Boating Club. Further along you come to Quarry Park where a glance up over the expansive lawns provides a view of the unique circular Church of Saint Chad. The centerpiece of Quarry Park is the sunken garden known as the Dingle, built in a former stone quarry. Every August the world famous Shrewsbury Flower Show is held at Quarry Park, providing a good excuse for me to return someday.
Castles and Abbeys
Moving right along, following the old town walls, you will come to the old Market Hall in the square and the narrow streets lined with Tudor buildings exhibiting the typical timber framing dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries. One could spend hours looking through the old shops in the historic district known as the Wyle Cop, but there’s still much more to see down the hill. Just across the English Bridge is Shrewsbury Abbey dating back to 1083. Returning back towards the Railway Station is Shrewsbury Castle, a red sandstone fortification dating back to 1074. By the time I crawled into bed that evening my dogs were pooped and my mind was reeling from sensory overload! My day had begun in Cardiff, Wales with a brief stopover in Swansea. Then there was the scenic train ride through Wales and finally, Shrewsbury, a city any visitor to England will not want to miss. Another big day lay ahead with more pleasant surprises awaiting me in Conwy, Wales.
Can you say Bahhth? Open your mouth and say ahh…Bahhth. Bath has it all…interesting history, elegant Georgian architecture, pastoral countryside and friendly inhabitants. I’d been to Bath a number of years ago and had been wanting to get back ever since. It’s the kind of place one could return to over and over again without ever getting tired of it. Less than a two hour train ride from Paddington Station in London, with the ticket costing only $29, Bath is situated on the southwestern edge of England, close to the border with Wales. If you’re driving the 115 miles, you have the added attractions of Stonehenge, the Salisbury Plain and the Salisbury Cathedral as quick side trips from the M4 Motorway. Bath, or Bath Spa as it is also called, is close enough to London to make it a day trip, but I wouldn’t have wanted to miss that beautiful evening in the English countryside!
Pulteney Bridge and Weir on the River Avon
A Quaint English Village
I arrived in Bath around noon and found a nice hotel near the center of town with no trouble at all. The Parade Park Hotel had a pleasant room with shared bath and a wonderful breakfast for $89.00. For more information on this hotel, check out our listing in Awesome Accommodations by clicking on the red bar above. Heading into town I came upon some sort of fair being held in a big tent at the Recreation Ground, so I popped in, as they say, to check it out. It turned out to be a ‘coffee festival’ and, since it’s always an extra treat to get to participate in a local ‘happening’, I mingled with the townsfolk and sampled coffee from around the world. Recharged with caffeine, I was ready to explore the town. For a city with a population of nearly 85,000, Bath still has the feel of a quaint English village. The main part of town is charming and is centered around the Pulteney Bridge, which crosses over the River Avon overlooking a beautifully designed weir. One could spend hours just looking through the shops and poking around old churches, graveyards, gardens and parks in Bath.
Bath Abbey
Steeped in History
There are three must see sights in Bath that everyone will tell you about and a fourth that I will describe below, which seems to be somewhat of a secret. In a city named for the baths built by the Romans in AD 43, the number one attraction is naturally going to be the ancient structure they built over the hot springs, which is now the Roman Baths Museum. Coming in at number two is the nearby Bath Abbey with its flying buttresses and gorgeous stained glass windows, begun in 1499 and considered the last of the great medieval churches of England. Finally, a short walk uphill will bring you to The Circus, a circular block exhibiting classic Georgian architecture, and, the even more famous Royal Crescent built between 1767 and 1775. I spent most of the afternoon exploring these and other interesting sights in Bath and after dinner decided to take a walk up the hill on the far side of the city. This is where I found my favorite place in Bath!
The Roman Baths Museum
Where Ratty and Moley Live
Walking up a side street on the eastern side of Bath, I stopped to reconnoiter and look back on the town below. While taking it all in, I heard the faint sound of a different kind of engine in the distance, along with cheerful voices. Walking a little further I came to an arched bridge crossing a canal just as a boat full of happy revelers was passing beneath. Thus began one of the most pleasant episodes of my entire journey through the British Isles, as I spent the next several hours walking along the canals, exploring the locks, watching the narrow boats pass by and enjoying the countryside so typical of England. Surely, I thought, this is where Ratty and Moley live. Kenneth Grahame’s The Wind in the Willows has been one of my favorite books since childhood and the scenery along the Kennet Avon Canal looked just like the famous color illustrations by Ernest H. Shepard that grace this classic children’s book. I felt like a kid again as I strolled up and down the canal walk, looking for Badger and Mr. Toad and expecting Ratty and the Mole to row by at any moment. There is hardly any mention of the beautiful canals in Bath in the travel guides, but they would certainly be at the top of my list of recommendations if anyone asked me what they should see in this beautiful place!
The Royal Crescent
Warning: If You Watch this Video, You’ll Want to Go There!
Hostels are the way to go in London, since hotels there can be extremely expensive. Of course, if you have money to burn or you’re celebrating a special occasion, there are some world class hotels that are definitely worth considering. As a value-minded traveler, however, I would rather stay at a hostel where I will not only save money, but will also have an opportunity to meet interesting people from all over the world with whom I can exchange ideas about what to see and where to go next.
London Central Youth Hostel
On several past visits to London I stayed at the Earl’s Court Hostel, another excellent choice for anyone visiting the capital of the United Kingdom. Unfortunately, it was already full when I tried to book it in advance, which is a testament to the popularity of hostels at this busy tourist destination. So, this time I tried the London Central Youth Hostel, which is also affiliated with Hostelling International, and it turned out to be a great place to stay. For a minimal annual fee you, too, can become a member of HI and get discounted rates at any of their facilities throughout the world. Be sure to check out our HI link under Travel Resources.
Front Desk at the London Central Youth Hostel
An Awesome Accommodation
The London Central Youth Hostel was a modern, clean, seven story facility managed by a friendly, helpful staff. The location could not be better, since, as its name implies, it is in the center of London. Only a five minute walk to Oxford Street, the hostel is also close to the Great Portland Metro Station where you can easily transfer to some of the major metro and train stations in London, like King’s Cross/St. Pancras and Paddington. On arrival in London, I took the metro from Heathrow Airport to the King’s Cross/St. Pancras station and then transferred to the Great Portland station which was within easy walking distance of the hostel. Once I was checked in and had rested up a bit after my long flight, I set out from the hostel on a walking tour of the major sights of London, including St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Globe Theater, Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, Buckingham Palace, Hyde Park, SoHo and Piccadilly Circus, to name just a few.
Cafe and Reception Area at the London Central Youth Hostel
Beds at the London Central Youth Hostel start at around $25 and I paid $42 for a room shared with 5 other fellows. Family accommodations are available and many rooms have private bathrooms. The hostel has a 24 hour café/bar, web access and a great breakfast for a small additional charge. It’s easy to see why the London Central Youth Hostel is such a popular place to stay and why it is consistently given high marks by visitors. I can highly recommend this hostel to anyone looking for a clean, safe, comfortable, centrally located and reasonably priced place to stay in London.
After an overnight flight on United Airlines with a stopover in Calgary, Alberta, Canada, I arrived at London Heathrow the following morning at about 10:30. I’d reserved a bed at the London Central Youth Hostel since I knew where I would be that first night and because hotels in London are notoriously expensive. Before I could relax and begin enjoying one of my favorite gateway cities there were several housekeeping chores that had to be completed. My first job was getting into town from the airport, then I had to find the hostel and get checked in and finally I had to find an ATM to get some Great British Pounds. At the end of this posting I share with you some important travel tips that helped me get these tasks done quickly and got me off to a good start on my trip. As you will see, each one came into play within the first few hours of landing at my destination city.
The Famous Balcony at Buckingham Palace
A ‘Walkable’ City
Planning ahead and knowing a few travel secrets really paid off and by early afternoon I was hoofing it around London. Although this fun and interesting place is one of the major cities of the world, it is still very ‘walkable’ for the fit traveler. I had been to London a number of times before, but there are certain places that I never get tired of seeing, no matter how many times I’ve seen them before. Starting from the hostel I made a circuit around the city visiting some of the world’s most famous sights, including St. Paul’s Cathedral, Trafalgar Square, Nelson’s Column, the site of Shakespeare’s Globe Theater, Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, Whitehall, No. 10 Downing Street, Hyde Park, SoHo and Piccadilly Circus. It was especially fun to see Westminster Abbey and Buckingham Palace just a few weeks after William and Kate were wed. Hopefully, I didn’t cause an international incident when I found myself in the wrong place during the changing of the guards at Whitehall!
John Gets a Little Too Close to the Guards at Whitehall!
New Attractions Among the Old (Some Very Old!)
This time there were several new attractions on my list of things to see in London, like the Millennium Bridge (footbridge across the Thames), the Ferris wheel (known as the London Eye) and the Diana Memorial Fountain (honoring Princess Diana). The footbridge and Ferris wheel seemed to be a magnet for young families and it was fun mingling with them as they enjoyed a beautiful Saturday afternoon along the Thames. It seems that each time I visit London I discover something new. On one trip the highlight was taking the tour of Buckingham Palace. Another time it was visiting the Royal Mews and actually getting to see the Cinderella Coach! This time I was struck by the beauty of Hyde Park…such a serene and pastoral setting so close to the hustle-bustle of the city. The nearby Diana Memorial Fountain seemed to be an appropriate and fitting tribute to the Princess and she certainly would have approved of all the children frolicking through the water as it cascades down the oval, granite-lined stream bed.
Princess Diana Would Approve of the Children Playing in Her Fountain
Miles to Go
I’m already looking forward to my next visit to London when, once again, I’ll enjoy seeing something old and something new. My relaxing first day in this fabulous city just whetted my appetite for the rest of the trip still ahead of me. I would be up early the next morning to catch the first train heading west to Bath. Sure hope you’ll join me as I wend my way through England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland over the next three weeks.
The Millennium Bridge with St. Paul’s Cathedral in Background
Tricks of an Experienced Traveler
1) Join Hostelling International and take your membership card with you on every tip. Take advantage of the great lodging they provide at locations throughout the world, especially in cities where hotels are expensive. The London Central Youth Hostel was a modern, clean facility located in the heart of London. I shared a room with five other travelers for $40 rather than spending hundreds of dollars to sleep for a few hours in a hotel room.
2) Consider reserving accommodations ahead on the first and last nights of your trip when you know where you will be. It relieves a little of the stress after a long flight at the beginning of the trip and again after a number of days on the road at the end of the trip.
3) Get a Capital One Credit Card and use it often. It is the only credit card that I know of that does not charge a foreign transaction fee. I used it to purchase a metro ticket into London before I had a chance to withdraw cash from an ATM and it came in handy numerous times throughout the rest of my trip. Don’t you love Capital One’s commercials with the Vikings and the Goat! What’s in your wallet?
4) Do your homework ahead of time and find out which of your ATM cards charge the lowest fees overseas. For me it was Citibank (depends on your account) and USAA. I checked the locations of Citibank ATMs in London before I left home and headed for one as soon as I arrived in the city.
5) Ask questions. The fare from Heathrow Airport to Paddington Station in London on the Express Train is nearly $30 and you still might need to buy a metro ticket from there. For only $8 and about a 30 minute longer trip you can take the metro from Heathrow to any location in London. The ticket agents for rail service throughout Great Britain and Ireland are extremely nice and helpful and are happy to assist you in finding the least expensive fare for any leg of your trip.
Hyde Park with the London Eye Looking on from a Distance
Well, I did it again! Just got back from another fabulous three week journey to one of the most beautiful and interesting parts of the world, all without spending a lot. This time I traveled through England, Wales and Scotland by train, crossed the Irish Sea by ferry and then toured Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland by bus. The weather could not have been nicer and I met friendly folks everywhere I went. It was my first visit to Wales and Ireland, which made the trip particularly special, and I was able to squeeze in even more than I had anticipated. Believe me…everything you have heard about the beautiful countryside and the friendly people who inhabit this area is true!
Off We Go into the Wild Blue Yonder
A Trek Through England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland
From York to Cork, Derry to Kerry, Conwy to Galway, and Killarney to Blarney…I saw it all and everything in between! In the next few posts on this travel blog I will be describing some of the highlights of the trip, including photos of the castles I explored, my visit to the ancestral homes of my Grandparents in Edinburgh, Scotland, a picturesque train ride through the heart of Wales, and the stunningly beautiful scenery of the Emerald Isle. Every trip has its share of adventures and this one was no exception. You won’t want to miss the upcoming articles where I recount my experiences kissing the Loch Ness Monster and searching for the Blarney Stone. Or was it searching for the Loch Ness Monster and kissing the Blarney Stone? Be sure to check back later to find out!
Cliffs of Moher, Ireland
Lots of Travel Tips
If you are contemplating a trip to the British Isles, I will have lots of information, suggestions and tips on transportation, points of interest, itineraries and lodging. With a little bit of advance planning, you will be surprised at the reasonable rates available for ground transportation throughout this region. I had extremely good luck finding high quality lodging everywhere I went, often staying in Bed and Breakfasts along the way. Many of them were truly outstanding and I will be providing detailed information and links to the establishments that I can recommend to my readers. One of the most fun parts of my journey was meeting and getting to know the proprietors of some the B and Bs where I stayed.
Spooky Castles!
Let’s Go!
So, hang on tight and prepare yourself for an interesting overview of the British Isles that will give you lots of good ideas for planning your own vacation. Remember, you, too, can have a wonderful, fun filled trip, packed with adventure, history, beautiful scenery and friendly people, all without spending a lot.
