Sandwiched between Russia and China, now fiercely independent Mongolia is a country on the verge of becoming an economic power and a force to be reckoned with. Its remote location makes it a little difficult to get to, but for travelers on the Trans-Siberian Railway it is a refreshing stop on the nearly 6,000 mile journey from Moscow to Beijing. The moment I boarded the train in Ulan-Ude, Russia heading for Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia, I began to sense the genuine friendliness and innate hardiness of the Mongolian people. I had the opportunity to meet a number of them who were returning home from business trips or vacations and it was a great introduction to this wonderful country.
Ulaanbaatar, City of Contrasts
On arrival in Ulaanbaatar I was able to easily walk across the city from the train station with my backpack to the centrally located UB Guesthouse, one of the best hostels I have ever stayed in (see below). First time visitors to Ulaanbaatar are immediately struck by the architectural contrast of ultra-modern buildings intermixed with yurts, temples and gray, cement monstrosities left over from Mongolia’s nearly 70 years as a satellite state of the Soviet Union, an unhappy period which ended in 1992. In the pleasant June weather I visited many of the major sights on foot and was surprised to see so many nice shops and restaurants along the way. Some of the ‘must see’ attractions include Sukhe Bator (the main square), the National Museum of Mongolian History, the Parliament Building with its free museum, the Choijin Lama Temple and the fabulous temple complex at Gandan Khiid.
The UB Guesthouse
The UB Guesthouse came highly recommended by other travelers I met along the way and also in the guidebooks that I brought on the trip. It is ideally located in the center of the city near the main square and was a fairly easy walk from the train station. It is one of the larger city hostels I have stayed in and had numerous rooms, some private and some dormitory style. The common areas were a great place to chat with other travelers and the clean, well-equipped kitchen was well stocked with free breakfast food. The staff could not have been more friendly and helpful. They assisted me in getting one of the limited train tickets to Beijing and planned a three day excursion to the Gobi Desert and national parks. I paid $8 per night for a comfortable dorm bed. The UB Guesthouse was clean and safe and run by a friendly, helpful staff. All this, along with the great location and reasonable fees, make it one of the best sleeps on our list of Awesome Accommodations.
As if the beautiful city of Siem Reap and the fabulous temples of nearby Angkor Wat weren’t enough, the oasis-like atmosphere of the Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel was the perfect refuge after a long day. Located within walking distance of all the downtown action, this three star hotel is highly rated by other travel websites and for a good reason. I stayed for two nights in a spacious, elegant room with a balcony and en suite bathroom for just $50 per night…and that included a wonderful buffet breakfast!
Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel, CambodiaFriendly Staff at the Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel
Tranquil Gardens
It was delightful just to walk around the beautifully maintained grounds of the hotel, enjoying the crystal clear pool, the lush gardens and the fish laden koi ponds situated around this tranquil refuge. True to its name, the hotel carried the tropical green theme throughout both the interior and exterior of the facility, from the brightly uniformed, friendly staff to the accents on the comfortable beds. At the entrance of the hotel is a wooden bridge that crosses over a koi pond, welcoming guests into the magnificently marbled, and cool, lobby.
My Room at the Siem Reap Evergreen HotelBathroom at the Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel
Great Hotel, Great Value
The Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel was a super value and truly one of the best sleeps of my trip through Southeast Asia. It ticked all the boxes when it comes to what I look for in an awesome accommodation. The location could not have been better, the well-informed staff members could not have been more helpful and the amenities could not have been more plentiful. The entire facility was spotlessly clean and guests can rest easily knowing that they are in a safe, secure place. To top it all off, the buffet breakfast was delicious. When you visit Siem Reap, Cambodia and the temples at Angkor Wat you will definitely want to stay at the Seam Reap Evergreen Hotel.
Sparkling Pool at the Siem Reap Evergreen HotelKoi Pond at the Siem Reap Evergreen HotelBuffet Breakfast at the Siem Reap Evergreen Hotel
The capital city of Cambodia is located at the confluence of the Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers. Founded in 1434, Phnom Penh is the largest city in Cambodia and home to many French colonial buildings and other architecturally significant structures. Almost as soon as I arrived on the bus from Saigon, I was able to arrange a tuk-tuk driver for a whirlwind tour of the city and surrounding areas. The first place we visited was the Tuol Sleng Prison (admission $2), which was formerly a high school and is now the Genocide Museum chronically the horrors of the Pol Pot regime of the late 1970s. After a tour of the prison I climbed back in the tuk-tuk, sat back and relaxed while Curly, my driver, pedaled us out of town in the rain to visit the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek.
Tuol Sleng Prison Genocide Museum
Although it was dark by the time we returned to the city after visiting the Killing Fields, Curly drove me past some of the more important sights. We saw the Independence Monument, built in 1958 to celebrate Cambodia’s independence from France in 1953, the Royal Palace, which consists of a series of buildings established in 1866 and Wat Phnom, the mountain pagoda built in 1373. After returning to my hotel I decided to take a walk down by the promenade along the river and mingle with the locals who were out enjoying the pleasant evening. This is one of my favorite things to do wherever I go and it’s always a great way to experience the vibes of a new city.
Phnom Penh, Cambodia at Night
The Killing Fields
Between 1975 and 1979 the communist Khmer Rouge executed more than one million individuals (some estimates are as high as 2.5 million plus) and buried them in various ‘killing fields’ throughout Cambodia. The most famous site is known as Choeung Ek outside of Phnom Penh, now a memorial to all those who were murdered during this dark period of Cambodia’s history. Most of the victims at Choeung Ek were political prisoners held at Tuol Sleng detention center in Phnom Penh. Almost 9,000 bodies were discovered at Choeung Ek and a Buddhist Stupa at the site holds more than 5,000 human skulls. Further adding to the horror of this place, the young children and infants of adult victims were also killed by bashing their heads against trees, some of which are still present on the site.
Skulls in Stupa at Choeung Ek
The feeling one gets visiting this infamous place is reminiscent of that which you experience when visiting the Nazi Concentration Camp of Auschwitz in Poland. My experience at Choeung Ek was all the more chilling because my visit took place at dusk, just before closing time on a dreary, rainy day. My tuk-tuk driver dropped me off at the entrance and waited outside while I walked around the memorial site. There was almost no one else there at the time and I was alone with the 5,000 skulls looking back at me. There was an eerie peacefulness about the place and had it not been for its horrible history, this former orchard might have been a beautiful setting. I sat quietly with my thoughts in the tuk-tuk on the ride back to my hotel and after getting into my room it gave me the creeps to see mud from the killing fields still on my shoes.
Grave Sites at the Choeung Ek Killing Fields
Getting There and Getting Around
The bus trip from Saigon, Vietnam to Phnom Penh, Cambodia was easily arranged through my hotel in Saigon and cost only $20. I was picked up at the Thanh Lien Hotel at 8:30 AM by a modern, comfortable bus and arrived in the capital city of Cambodia by 3 PM. At the border crossing Americans can purchase a visa on arrival for $25 and although it was a somewhat drawn out procedure, the bus driver helped us navigate the steps involved in getting the visa.
Bus Stopping for Customs at Vietnam-Cambodia Border
On the bus I met a nice fellow from North Carolina by the name of Will Boggs who was starting a summer job as an English teacher in Cambodia and have enjoyed following his round the world trip this past year on Facebook. After arriving in Phnom Penh, there was a passel of tuk-tuk drivers waiting to take us anywhere we wanted to go. I lucked out when I selected ‘Curly’ as my driver and he delivered me to the City Center Hotel, which turned out to be a great place to stay.
Curly, My Tuk-Tuk Driver in Phnom Penh
City Center Hotel
The appropriately named City Center Hotel was located in the heart of Phnom Penh, within walking distance of many of the major sights as well as the riverfront. I was able to get a nice room with private bathroom for $35, which included breakfast the next morning. The front desk staff were friendly and helpful and assisted me in booking a minivan to Siem Reap for the next day. The hotel was clean and safe and along with its great location and excellent value, the City Center Hotel satisfied all my requirements for an awesome accommodation.
The City Centre Hotel, Phnom Penh, CambodiaMud from the Killing Fields on my Shoes!
Editorial Comment
The kindness and friendliness of the Cambodian people you meet everywhere throughout the country belies the dark recent past which will haunt them for many years to come. Their willingness to face straight on the horrific events of the past is a tribute to their resilience and determination to build a prosperous and peaceful county. By transforming the former Tuol Sleng Prison into a Genocide Museum and encouraging tourists to visit the Killing Fields, the Cambodian government has gained credibility and respect on the world stage.
With Vietnam well on its way to star status in the modern world, its citizens seem to be reconnecting with their colorful history and embracing the many positive aspects of the country’s past. Perhaps that is why the original name of its largest city has slowly crept back into general usage, with ‘Saigon’ now preferred by many, particularly in the younger generation, to ‘Ho Chi Minh City’. A tourist destination as well as a gateway city to Southeast Asia, Saigon is an eclectic mix of old and new. This became readily apparent to me after I checked into an upper floor of my hotel not far from the architecturally stunning Bitexco Financial Tower and could hear a rooster crowing!
The Bitexco Financial Tower, Saigon
Sights of the City
For someone who’s walked the cities of Paris, Budapest and Moscow, hoofing it around Saigon was a walk in the park. Beginning my walking tour in the late afternoon and continuing into the dusk and evening I covered the major sights, including the Independence Palace, the Parisian-style People’s Committee Hall, the Revolutionary Museum and the Opera House. I got an unexpected treat while checking out the War Remnants Museum when I ran into the visiting Austrian president’s motorcade. And who would have thought that the Central Post Office would be an architectural wonder or that there would be a beautiful Notre-Dame Cathedral in Saigon!
The War Remnants Museum, Saigon
Friendly Folks in a Vibrant City!
Everywhere on my wanderings around this beautiful city I ran into friendly people. At one point a group of four young men approached me and explained that they were college students and wanted to interview me for a school project. We had a very friendly encounter that left a great impression on me and deepened my respect and admiration for the people of Vietnam. As darkness fell, the lights of the city really brought it to life. There seemed to be motor scooters everywhere, loaded with people, sometimes even a family of four, out enjoying the evening. On my way back to the hotel I had fun watching the fishermen along the Saigon River and got a spectacular view of the Bitexco Financial Tower all lit up. But there was one more stop to make. What visit to any city would be complete without taking in the market scene.
New Friends in Saigon
The Thanh Lien Hotel
To save time, I had taken the one hour flight on Vietnam Airlines from Da Nang Airport to Saigon, after visiting nearby Hoi An. At the airport I was able to book a room at the Thanh Lien Hotel for $50 and after a quick taxi ride for $11, I was checking into my room by midafternoon. The hotel was ideally located and a nice buffet breakfast was included in the price. I had a clean, modern, well-appointed room with en suite bathroom. The friendly front desk staff members were able to help me book a bus ticket to Siem Reap, Cambodia for the following day. The Thanh Lien Hotel had everything I expect in a hotel, including great location, friendly, helpful staff, reasonable price and a clean, safe environment. I can highly recommend it as an awesome accommodation during your visit to Saigon, Vietnam.
All right! This is where you’ll want to stay during your visit to Hoi An, Vietnam. I was dropped off at the Phuoc An Hotel on the recommendation of the taxi driver who brought me from the train station in Da Nang and I was delighted with everything about this place. After being greeted with a welcome drink I was shown to my large, comfortable room with its own private balcony and en suite bathroom. Also included were a wonderful breakfast, a pool, and get this, my own bicycle! And all this for only $30! The location just on the outskirts of town could not have been better. It was a short, easy walk to the main activities down by the river. The first item on my agenda after checking in was to get on my bike and take a tour of the entire area to get oriented.
This bicycle came with my room at the Phuoc An Hotel.
An Awesome Accommodation
Featuring 30 rooms, the Phuoc An Hotel has free parking, free WiFi, coffee and tea tray, and air conditioning. The staff at the front desk were extremely friendly and helpful and there was a handy tour office in the lobby. The next morning I thoroughly enjoyed the wonderful buffet breakfast served by an attentive crew in a cabana like atmosphere overlooking the pool. This hotel has everything I want when looking for a place to stay. It was quiet, clean, safe and welcoming. The location was ideal, the staff was outstanding and the price was right. The Phuoc An Hotel in Hoi An, Vietnam has earned a place on our list of Awesome Accommodations.
After looking at all the available travel books before my trip I selected Frommer’s Southeast Asia guidebook for my source of travel information while exploring this fascinating region of the world. It turned out to be an excellent choice and it was among their hotel recommendations that I found the Hoa Binh Hotel in Hanoi, Vietnam. My two nights at this moderately priced three star hotel could not have been more pleasant and I can highly recommend it to anyone visiting the capital city of Vietnam. Built in 1926, this architecturally beautiful hotel is ideally located in the old French Quarter of central Hanoi, within walking distance of most of the major attractions, including the train station and Hoan Kiem Lake. Only the most jaded traveler would fail to be impressed with the grand staircase just off the main lobby.
An Awesome Accommodation
The Hoa Binh Hotel boasts 103 guest rooms and suites and combines the old world charm of colonial Vietnam with all the modern amenities required by the discriminating business or leisure traveler. My room with en suite bathroom was large, clean and comfortable and included a television, air conditioning, fridge and internet, not to mention the impressive crown molding details. The hotel also has Wi-Fi availability. The reasonable price of $65 per night included a wonderful buffet breakfast and daily fruit basket and tea tray in the room. The staff at the hotel were friendly and helpful and easy to communicate with in English. I was able to have my laundry done while I was there and the front desk travel clerk was able to book me on a tour of Halong Bay for the day after I arrived. The Hoa Binh Hotel met all my criteria for an Awesome Accommodation, including value for the money, excellent location, friendly, helpful staff, cleanliness, safety and comfort. Be sure to check it out on your next trip to Hanoi.
The Hoa Binh Hotel, Hanoi, Vietnam
Entrance to the Hoa Binh Hotel
Reception Desk at the Hoa Binh Hotel
The Grand Staircase at the Hoa Binh Hotel
The Lobby of the Hoa Binh Hotel
My Bathroom at the Hoa Binh Hotel
My Room at the Hoa Binh Hotel
My Room at the Hoa Binh Hotel
Crown Molding Detail in My Room at the Hoa Binh Hotel
