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Cork, Ireland

History, Culture and Architectural Splendor

The city of Cork in southern Ireland is a major seaport and the third most populous city in Ireland.  The name ‘Cork’ comes from the Irish word meaning marsh and the city center is actually located on an island where the River Lee divides into two channels before converging again to flow to the sea.  From the time it was founded by Saint Finbarr in the 6th century, Cork has been at the center of Irish history in one fashion or another.  It served as a Viking trading post beginning around 920 AD, had its population decimated by the Black Death plague in 1349, played a role in the English War of the Roses in 1491 and was a major player in the War of Independence in the early 20th century.  Recent history is reflected in the beautiful churches and cathedrals that grace the city, including the famous neo-Gothic Saint Fin Barre’s (Protestant) and St. Mary’s (Catholic) Cathedrals.  Christ Church in the Old Town and St. Anne’s Church, which houses the Bells of Shandon in its clock tower, round out the architectural splendor on display at the houses of worship in Cork.

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The Bells of Shandon across the River Lee, Cork Ireland

Elizabeth Fort was built as a fortification outside the city walls in 1601.  While parts of the fort are now used as a police station, other areas are accessible to tourists, as are some of the original town walls.  Culture abounds in Cork, as attested by the Crawford Art Gallery, the ultra modern Cork Opera House and the beautiful University College Cork, built in 1845, which straddles the south channel of the River Lee.  While all of these sites are easily accessible on foot, St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral and the University College Cork located near one another on the south side of the city are particularly worth the time and effort to see.

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University College Cork, Ireland

Kissing the Blarney Stone

No trip to Ireland would be complete without kissing the Blarney Stone.  Located high up in the tower of the 600 year old Blarney Castle just outside of Cork, the Blarney Stone can only be kissed while lying on your back and being suspended partially upside down…and trusting the guide to hold you!  It really isn’t as scary as it sounds and once done, the gift of Irish gab is supposedly conferred upon the ‘kisser’.  The short bus ride from the Cork city center to the castle cost about $9 for the round trip and the entrance fee to the castle grounds was about $15.

IMG 5404 Cork, Ireland

Blarney Castle

The Blarney Castle and Gardens are actually a large, active estate located on the River Martin and the Blarney River.  Visitors can also tour the elegant Blarney House built in 1874 where the current baronet and his family actually live.  Put on your hiking shoes as you take a self guided tour of the gardens, the castle with its dungeons and caves and the rock close with its waterfalls, Druid’s Cave and Witch’s Stone.  One could spend hours wandering the grounds and exploring the many points of interest to be found in this magical place.  Trust me!  You won’t want to miss it.  Just before I left I’m almost certain I saw several Leprechauns, but then maybe I’m just full of Blarney.

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Kissing the Blarney Stone Atop Blarney Castle

The Friendly Corkonians

The hour and a half bus ride from Killarney to Cork cost about $24 and took us through some beautiful sights and scenery, including the market town of Macroom.  Corkonians are a very friendly lot and I enjoyed chatting with a number of them during my wanderings about the city.  It’s interesting to note that they are sometimes referred to as ‘The Rebels’ for their early disavowal of British domination during the long struggle for Irish independence.  I was very fortunate to find a wonderful place to stay while I was in Cork and encourage you to return for my full report on Creedon’s Bed and Breakfast.  It goes without saying that with its many cultural and architectural treasures in addition to the nearby Blarney Castle, Cork is an essential stop on any trek through Ireland.

IMG 5429 Cork, Ireland

Saint Fin Barre's Cathedral

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Leen’s Bed and Breakfast, Killarney, Ireland

A Warm Welcome

Leen’s Bed and Breakfast in Killarney, Ireland was one of the nicest places I stayed during my trip through the British Isles.  I arrived there at 9:30 AM by bus from Tralee in order to catch the 10 AM Ring of Kerry tour bus and the proprietors could not have been more accommodating.  They gave me a warm welcome and allowed me to check in early so that I could freshen up and leave my main pack before setting out on the tour.  I had arranged both the room and the tour bus the day before at the Tralee Tourist Office for a $7 booking fee.  My accommodations at Leen’s Bed and Breakfast included a nice room with private bath and a wonderful full Irish Breakfast, all for $54, an excellent value for the price.

IMG 5290 Leens Bed and Breakfast, Killarney, Ireland

Leen's Bed and Breakfast, Killarney, Ireland

A Great Location

Leen’s Bed and Breakfast is located in a nice, quiet residential area within easy walking distance of most of the major attractions in Killarney.  There are four bedrooms available, including single, twin, double and triple accommodations and each room has an en suite bathroom.  Each room also has television, wireless internet connectivity and tea and coffee tray.  Leen’s can also accommodate groups at a reduced rate and as an added benefit for those traveling by rental car, private parking is available.

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Bedroom at Leen's Bed and Breakfast

All the Comforts of Home

My bedroom at Leen’s Bed and Breakfast was bright, clean, comfortable and modern and had all the comforts of home.  It also had a nice window that looked out on the pleasant, peaceful surrounding neighborhood.  The proprietor, Siobhan Leen, prepared a wonderful full Irish breakfast which I thoroughly enjoyed in the cheery breakfast room before heading off to catch the bus to Cork the next morning.  Leen’s Bed and Breakfast had all the qualities I look for and more when considering a place to stay.  It was clean, comfortable, safe, well located and operated by a friendly, helpful staff in addition to being a good value.  I’m quite sure you will enjoy Leen’s Bed and Breakfast as much as I did on your next visit to Killarney, Ireland.

IMG 5313 Leens Bed and Breakfast, Killarney, Ireland

Breakfast Room at Leen's Bed and Breakfast

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Killarney and the Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry 

A tour of the Ring of Kerry, located on the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry, has become an almost mandatory pilgrimage for every visitor to Ireland.  A bus tour is a great way to see the many beautiful sights on this heavily trafficked trail and usually takes about six hours to complete.  Because of the difficulty buses have passing one another on some of the narrow roads, they all travel in a counterclockwise direction along the coast.  I had a great experience with O’Connor Auto Tours which provided an entertaining (and very skilled) bus driver who regaled us with his gift of Irish gab and gave us plenty of time at each stop.  The tour cost about $32, not including lunch, and I’m quite sure you’ll be glad you left the driving to them rather than trying to navigate the narrow, winding roads in a rental car.

IMG 5239 Killarney and the Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry, Ireland

There was an additional fee for several special points of interest along the way, one of the most interesting of which was the sheepdog herding demonstration.  The tour took us through Killorglin, Caherciveen, Waterville, Sneem, Molls Gap and Ladies’ View in addition to a visit to the Kerry Bog Village Museum in Glenbeigh before returning to Killarney.  One of the most enjoyable things about traveling is the people you meet along the way, like the nice folks who were on the tour bus with me.  So, here’s a ‘hello’ to Luca and Elena from Italy, Brian from Philadelphia and the two lovely young ladies from Victoria, British Columbia. 

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The Kerry Bog Village Museum, Ireland

Killarney 

Located in southwestern Ireland, Killarney has an ancient history and the castles, abbeys and cathedrals to prove it.  With its trout filled lakes, mountain crags and oak studded woodlands, it has become one of the most popular tourist destinations in all of Ireland.  Killarney is not just a great jumping off place for the Ring of Kerry, but a worthy destination in its own right!  After returning from the Ring of Kerry tour I walked around the old town with its colorful shops, pubs and restaurants, visited the famous St. Mary’s Cathedral and enjoyed seeing some of the beautifully manicured gardens that surround many of the lovely homes that line the streets.

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Killarney National Park, Ireland

I always like to immerse myself in local events when I travel and it just happened that there was an international gathering of bikers taking place at the Gleneagle Hotel while I was in Killarney.  I had fun mingling with the crowds, enjoying the free entertainment and drooling over the beautiful Harley-Davidson motorcycles that had come from all over the world.  My walk skirted the Killarney National Park where I got a glimpse of Muckross Abbey, but unfortunately I missed some of the most well known sites in Killarney, including Ross Castle, Muckross House and the nearby Torc Waterfall, which will have to wait until my next trip to Ireland.  There just was not enough time to see everything, giving me a good excuse to return to Killarney some day.

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Bikers in Killarney, Ireland

Trek through Ireland Drawing to a Close 

With my trek through Ireland winding down to the last few days before I would have to fly home, I couldn’t imagine that there would still be so much more waiting for me to see!  It seemed that each place I visited outdid the ones that came before and the town of Killarney and the nearby Ring of Kerry were no exception!  Fortunately, I’d made reservations before I left Tralee for a room at a bed and breakfast as well as a seat on the tour bus to the Ring of Kerry.  The 40 minute bus ride from Tralee to Killarney cost about $12 and the driver was kind enough to make a special stop near Leen’s Bed and Breakfast where I was given a warm welcome.  I was able to check into my room early so that I could leave my pack and be ready for the tour bus that picked me up out front at 10 AM.  Be sure to return for our full report on Leen’s Bed and Breakfast in Killarney, Ireland…a wonderful place to stay!

IMG 5237 Killarney and the Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry, Ireland

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